Stella's Social Club

[mlm Mike]

My second attempt at blackberry scones worked better than the first, My picture was published by 5 of the 6 top food porn sites! I know it is a bit overexposed but I liked the look. The berries and leaves really stood out on this one.

and YUM!

It must have been rather frightening to see your emu running loose.
What a great rooster Isi is!

 

[Happy Chooks]

My second attempt at blackberry scones worked better than the first, My picture was published by 5 of the 6 top food porn sites! I know it is a bit overexposed but I liked the look. The berries and leaves really stood out on this one.

Is that recipe on your blog? I found another scone recipe I was going to try.

Escape emu, who would have thought?

 

[Happy Chooks]

This is what I made today - Double chocolate oatmeal coconut cookies. They were pretty darn good too. I know my picture isn't as pretty, but hey, I was in a hurry and having guests over for dinner.

 

[debs_flock]

My second attempt at blackberry scones worked better than the first, My picture was published by 5 of the 6 top food porn sites! I know it is a bit overexposed but I liked the look. The berries and leaves really stood out on this one.

Congratulations!

I've always called Food Network food porn.

I have DH calling it that to his friends/family too.

 

[The Sheriff]

Ooh, those look really good Kelly. And that really is a good picture with a little post editing.

 

[chiqita]

hello everyone! Im reposting this from facebook, as I keep thinking about all those dead Isabar chicks and wondering if this would help. ( I have another post I keep meaning to post about that too, Ill see if I can find it fast
Same thing I posted on the nor cal thread, so ignore if you saw it there:
OK, I found some GREAT information on facebook yesterday from a vet on the serema pages.

Since with a lot of the tiny chicks it is hard to tell if they have cocci until they die, and she says medicated food does not do much if they are not out with a momma, here is her LONG regimen for making sure you never loose birds to it. She says to do this with new birds you get from other areas too because new cocci can kill older birds and people don't look for it or expect it.


This is the cocci immunity building program

• I copied and pasted the following info from an article written by Peter Brown - it is exactly in line with my personal advice and saved some time re. typing: Controlling Coccidiosis and still allowing immunity to build is accomplished in the following way. Use Amprol/Corid powder in the birds drinking water at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon of water for seven days and 1/8 teaspoon of 3-Nitro-W as well. Then skip twenty one days and then begin treating with Sulfadimethoxione at the rate of one ounce per two gallons of drinking water for five days. Then skip twenty one days again and start the treatment all over again beginning with the Amprol/Corid and the 3-Nitro-W powder. Continue this program until all birds are five to six month sold or until the hens begin laying eggs and then discontinue the program and treat on an as needed basis. It is important to start the Amprol/Corid powder first and then use the Sulfadimethoxine as some species of Cocci cause intestinal bleeding and the use of Sulfa drugs first, will contribute to the bleeding before it makes the situation better. It is also advisable to add ¼ teaspoon of VITAMIN E to the water as research shows that VITAMIN E can help shorten the course of a Coccidiosis outbreak. When starting baby chicks it is important to start this program no later than ten days of age as this disease will kill baby chicks very quickly. Newly developed technology has produced a new Coccidiosis vaccine that is both effective, safe and, affordable. It is really simple to use just mix the vaccine according to the directions that are provided with the vaccine and spray the vaccine on the birds feed that you are feeding for the day. Its that simple. If vaccination was done properly the birds will show mild symptoms of Cocci but should not be overwhelmed by the vaccine and immunity will build from there. No medication should be necessary for the life of the birds.
  Some of the symptoms that you may observe during an outbreak of Coccidiosis are as follows: Ruffled feathers, droopy or sleepy eyed appearance, birds may drop one of both wings, birds may become lethargic and reluctant to move even when prodded. Some birds may show an uncoordinated gate or appear to stagger of walk as though they are trying to step over something when there is nothing in front of them. Some birds may have a chilled appearance as well. There may or may not be blood in the droppings depending upon the species of Cocci that is affecting the birds. Weight loss as well as loss of appetite and mortality may also be observed.
  Just a word of caution when using Sulfa drugs. Never use Sulfa drugs for longer than the suggested period of time. Never use two Sulfa drugs at the same time. Always use the proper dose for the drug being used. Always allow three weeks between the use of different Sulfa drugs, never use them back to back. The overuse of Sulfa drugs can and will if not properly used cause permanent and irreversible KIDNEY DAMAGE and RENAL SHUTDOWN (kidney failure). Use Sulfa drugs with confidence but with a sense of caution. It will be of value to use some 3-Nitro-W in with the Corid/Amprol powder when treating for Cocci. There is a synergistic effect when the two are used together. Synergistic just means that the ability of the Corid/Amprol powder to fight Coccidiosis will improved if the two are used together.
  Sunday at 4:52am · Edited · Unlike · 2
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  Ilse Zweegers so for your next hatch, you can choose between building immunity as described above or by vaccination. What I will strongly advise is strict bio security - I know you have done your utmost to disinfect etc. but the most common transfer of cocci to chicks is through a human carrier i.e. hands, clothes, shoes. So keep some shoes and clothes that you wear with the chicks but never with other poultry until they are at least 8 weeks old. Wash and disinfect hands each time before handling them. Never mix chicks from different hatches. Remember to control temperature and ventilation, an average of 75 degrees without artificial heat is comfortable for chicks. They should have a source for extra warmth (heating lamp, heater plate) when they want it, but must be able to have areas the extra heat doesn't reach so they can cool off. What a difficult start for you! persevere, they are worth it please tag or PM me if you have more questions.
  Sunday at 4:14am · Unlike · 1
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  Ilse Zweegers For the current hatch, switch to unmedicated feed immediately. Continue the Corid 9.6% at 2cc per quart of water for the next 5 days, make a fresh solution daily and give as the only source of water. Add liquid vitamin E to the medicated water. Add probiotic powder to their feed - it will be less effective than normal, but every little bit helps. Clean feeders & waterers everytime you refill them. Change bedding daily. Cease adding ACV for now. You can always use again after recovery. Some people believe it helps prevent cocci but it aggravates the stomach lining if they are already sick. It also cancels out the benefits of probiotics due to the PH level. Check they are drinking (otherwise dehydration and not absorbing meds) - if not, hand hydrate every few hours using a 1cc needleless syringe. You can make a 'smoothie' in a blender of feed, water, probiotic powder and raw egg and feed them little bits every few hours using a needleless syringe if they aren't eating. I will post a few links below so you know which products you are looking for and where you can buy online in case you can't source locally. You should have them in your first aid kit anyway for future use.
  Sunday at 4:27am · Unlike · 1
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  Ilse Zweegers Just an extra note : medicated feed is only useful if chicks are hatched by a hen and stay with her. There is no point to give in a brooder situation as they are not exposed to cocci in the soil on an ongoing basis. Also, if you build immunity with treatment outlined above or if you vaccinate, the medicated feed actually interferes with the regimes, so give unmedicated starter only. AND. West Slope Seramas - I am strongly against the use of Sulmet as are most of my colleague vets incl. Dr. Peter Brown aka the Chicken Doctor. It is EXTREMELY harsh on the kidneys and especially when used on chicks can actually cause mortality rather than saving them. However, your own experience is what you should base your choices on. It is not prudent however to advise using such aggressive medication to others who may not have the knowledge or experience on which to base their choice of treatment.
  Sunday at 4:30am · Unlike · 1
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  Ilse Zweegers One final note : Nitro-3-W is basically Roxarsone (inorganic arsenic) However, it has recently been removed from sale in certain countries, so you would need to ask your vet or contact Dr. Peter Brown to ask if it is still available for you. If not, the immunity building program remains identical, but then without the use of Nitro-3-W

 

[chiqita]

Ok I cant find it. But she said if you have one hen that is laying eggs and the chicks are dying she could have a bacteria she is passing on thats getting in the egg. She said you can try soaking the eggs in water HOTTER then the egg. ( if it is cooler it pushes the bacteria into the egg and does not clean it off) and can ad a tiny bit of oxine to the water. you WILL loose the bloom, but if the hen is laying a bacteria thats getting into the egg ( and tus all her chicks are dying) its somethign to try.

That is paraphrased, I dont remember what she said exactly, I lost the link.

She also said if you are giving bitter meds in water put a little no sugar added apple juice in the water to cover the flavor or they will not drink enough.

 

[ChickensAreSweet]

Congrats Mary on the photo being accepted!

Kelly I just saw your photos from your hike and the scenery is glorious!!

 

[lonnyandrinda]

Ok I cant find it. But she said if you have one hen that is laying eggs and the chicks are dying she could have a bacteria she is passing on thats getting in the egg. She said you can try soaking the eggs in water HOTTER then the egg. ( if it is cooler it pushes the bacteria into the egg and does not clean it off) and can ad a tiny bit of oxine to the water. you WILL loose the bloom, but if the hen is laying a bacteria thats getting into the egg ( and tus all her chicks are dying) its somethign to try.

That is paraphrased, I dont remember what she said exactly, I lost the link.

She also said if you are giving bitter meds in water put a little no sugar added apple juice in the water to cover the flavor or they will not drink enough.

That's exactly what I figure has happened- the eggs were getting contaminated before being laid from both of my Isbar hens. A friend of mine has suggested based on symptoms that I am fighting some sort of e coli bacteria. I really need to call the lab as I don't really understand the final results they sent me.... BUT based on their initial diagnosis of bacterial infection I treated all the pens with a two week course of Tetroxy HCA-280 (Tetracycline) at the higher dosage. I finished the treatment last Saturday. Since the beginning of treatment 2 1/2 weeks ago I have lost only ONE Isbar chick! So I think I made the correct guess there. Time will tell- I have a few more batches of chicks in the incubator that will need a two week treatment and then I will stop treating and hold my breath.... any eggs I set now ought to be "clean"- again only time will tell!

 

[ronott1]

That's exactly what I figure has happened- the eggs were getting contaminated before being laid from both of my Isbar hens. A friend of mine has suggested based on symptoms that I am fighting some sort of e coli bacteria. I really need to call the lab as I don't really understand the final results they sent me.... BUT based on their initial diagnosis of bacterial infection I treated all the pens with a two week course of Tetroxy HCA-280 (Tetracycline) at the higher dosage. I finished the treatment last Saturday. Since the beginning of treatment 2 1/2 weeks ago I have lost only ONE Isbar chick! So I think I made the correct guess there. Time will tell- I have a few more batches of chicks in the incubator that will need a two week treatment and then I will stop treating and hold my breath.... any eggs I set now ought to be "clean"- again only time will tell!

I think your chicks had Mushy chick disease. The Bacteria gets into a wound where the egg yolk is absorbed.

Yes, it is ecoli bacteria and it usually comes from the incubator. There is a component of the yolk not absorbing correctly, which could come for lack of vigor in the Isbars.

I would think that oxine in the water or Copper Pennies(check the date when copper was removed form pennies. I think it was 1987) would kill the bacteria, even on the egg if it was there. Other than vigor, there could be incubation temperature and humidity issues that cause the yolk to not absorb correctly.

Litter life in the coop and yard will remove ecoli bacteria from those areas. Litter life is sold by Southland Organics(I bought mine from Amazon).

I probably am not explaining this well at all so here is an article from Sally Sunshine:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/mushy-chick-disease-yolk-sack-infection-omphalitis