Stinky Coop/Run...how do you manage the smell?

-I use poop boards under roosts with thin(<1/2") layer of sand/PDZ mix, sifted daily(takes 5-10mins) into bucket going to friends compost.

-Scrape big or wet poops off roost and ramps as needed.

-Pine shavings on coop floor, add some occasionally, totally changed out once or twice a year, old shavings added to run.

-Runs have semi-deep litter, never clean anything out, just add smaller dry materials.

-Nests are bedded with straw, add some occasionally, change out if needed(broken egg).

There is no odor, unless a fresh cecal has been dropped and when I open the bucket to add more poop.

That's how I 'clean', have not found any reason to clean 'deeper' in 4 years.
 
Both the coop and run are smelling. We don't currently have any type of bedding over the concrete or dirt, but we routinely scoop/clean the concrete about every 3 days. They've only had the run for about a month now. The run is roughly 250 square feet, and the coop is about 80 square feet. My hubby has been locking them all in at night because he's afraid something will get in the run at night, even though I don't think as probable as he thinks. ;)

Your husband has the right idea, it's safer to lock them in at night, unless you're 100% sure your run is completely impenetrable.

As far as the smell issue, you need some form of bedding to help absorb the moisture and smell. If straw is what you can get right now, use that, though it would probably be better mixed in with other plant materials like dry leaves, wood chips, grass cuttings, etc. As far as cost, doing deep litter is free for me, as I source the plant materials from my own yard. Some tree companies will deliver wood chips for free or for a delivery fee.
 
Poop boards under roost. Scoop twice weekly.
Pine shavings in coop. I remove those twice per year. The pine shavings go to the run. The poop boards keep the pine shavings dry and non-smelly.
The run gets the DLM. Grass clippings, leaves, garden waste. No smell.
 
Can you share a photo of the coop and run?

The best method for dealing with smells is adequate ventilation in the coop, PLUS deep litter in both the coop and run. Deep litter is something that was once part of a living plant.......in compost terms, it is carbon. The Nitrogen half comes from the bird droppings. That is what you have now. Absent the carbon, all you will get is the smell of ammonia as the droppings start to work.

Deep litter works like a disposable diaper and serves the same purpose. Deep means an overnight, extended weekend, month long diaper. Start with at least 6 inches and add to it as needed.

If allowed to combine with water and air, the droppings and litter start to chemically bond as both breakdown. The instead of making ammonia, the nitrogen combines with the carbon....so the smell goes away. The flies etc that are drawn to the droppings also go away. Birds run around on and scratch around in the litter.

Depending on the bird load, your litter may last as long as 3 to 6 months or even longer (perhaps a year or more), then what you are then left with is some really good stuff for gardens or flower beds.

An easy to find, inexpensive litter is old grass hay. NOT alfalfa or a legume hay, but old grass hay. Brome, fescue, etc. I recently had to mow some reeds canarygrass, which is a heavy coarse grass, and realized it would be excellent as deep litter.

To find the hay, look on craigslist......small square bales. It should be cheap. $3 to $4 per bale. One bale should cover about 100 SF to start.
 
Can you share a photo of the coop and run?

The best method for dealing with smells is adequate ventilation in the coop, PLUS deep litter in both the coop and run. Deep litter is something that was once part of a living plant.......in compost terms, it is carbon. The Nitrogen half comes from the bird droppings. That is what you have now. Absent the carbon, all you will get is the smell of ammonia as the droppings start to work.

Deep litter works like a disposable diaper and serves the same purpose. Deep means an overnight, extended weekend, month long diaper. Start with at least 6 inches and add to it as needed.

If allowed to combine with water and air, the droppings and litter start to chemically bond as both breakdown. The instead of making ammonia, the nitrogen combines with the carbon....so the smell goes away. The flies etc that are drawn to the droppings also go away. Birds run around on and scratch around in the litter.

Depending on the bird load, your litter may last as long as 3 to 6 months or even longer (perhaps a year or more), then what you are then left with is some really good stuff for gardens or flower beds.

An easy to find, inexpensive litter is old grass hay. NOT alfalfa or a legume hay, but old grass hay. Brome, fescue, etc. I recently had to mow some reeds canarygrass, which is a heavy coarse grass, and realized it would be excellent as deep litter.

To find the hay, look on craigslist......small square bales. It should be cheap. $3 to $4 per bale. One bale should cover about 100 SF to start.


Thanks so much! This is VERY helpful! I guess i hadn't realized we needed some type of bedding in the run, since it's just dirt/grass. We will be making that change! Just curious, why not the other types of hay? What is the difference?
 
I have ducks and chickens. They are separated, but just wanted to add that the ducks side does smell more than the chickens side. Especially if they just pooed or if I stepped in it (with boots on of course). ;)
The ducks poo is more watery than the chickens and probably adds to the issue.
Since your ducks most likely sleep on the coop floor, you would need to take that into consideration with regards to their bedding. I use pine shavings. When I clean out their coop/house as long as there are no issues, I throw the old stuff into the run. I am going to add leaves and grass clippings, etc to the run (as this is a rather new set up).
Pics might help the rest of us to offer more fine tuned advice.
As for the chickens roosting - they grow into that, so yours might not be old enough. But, take into account the amount of light they receive when they go to roost as well as ventilation.
 

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