Technical coop building question.

Then your probably right with having it open out. I have almost no predators here. But with all that there you are right. The spring hinges are still a life saver for me and if your door opens out you can take a leftover piece of one by four and screw it on the in side part of your door frame on the top and bottom so that when your door swings closed it doesn't go too far closed and will also help all those predators from just pushing the door in.. You can also over size your door by a few inches.. The hinges get a little tricky when you do that though
 
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Yeah, probably...little late now....don't think you can move/combine 2 threads.
.....and it doesn't really matter, just harder to track two threads..but I'm a bit organization-obsessed...haha!.


But you could go back and edit that first post in the other thread to include a link to this post and a request that people respond only to the linked (second) thread. It won't prevent everyone from posting there but should eliminate quite a few. If you also add a new post w/link at the end of that thread directing them to the second then you'll get 99% of people.
 
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Thank you for the suggestion, thats a good idea and I did post the links at the top and the bottom so hopefully that will help.

Anyway, next issue: The roof. So I have no choice due to my lot but to have my coop face north. So Im having coop on the left (east), run on the right (west) front of coop facing north and back of coop south. It will be backed up to forrested area. So I was thinking of using the wavy clear polycarbonate roof to allow winter sunlight in to somewhat warm it up. Massachusetts winters can be very cold. But I think the regular roof would be easier, more aesthetically pleasing and may have more insulating value. What has been everyones experience using polycarbonate vs regular roof with trusses, plywood and either shingles or metal roof?
 
I have always used metal roofing with a piece or two of the polycarbonate. They fit together perfectly and the metal is about a quarter the cost. Chickens like to be closed in at night. I fear an open polycarbonate top would make them feel a little unsecure. With just one sheet or clear properly placed on the roof you get the benefit from the warming/drying sun and the benefit of the dark top cheap roof. You said your coop will be seven ft tall. Is that the coop itself or the run? How will your ventilation be and how tall will your roost be. Out of the permanent coops I've built the ones with the best designed ventilation and interior provide the happiest spot for you and them
 
Thank you for the suggestion, thats a good idea and I did post the links at the top and the bottom so hopefully that will help.

Anyway, next issue: The roof. So I have no choice due to my lot but to have my coop face north. So Im having coop on the left (east), run on the right (west) front of coop facing north and back of coop south. It will be backed up to forrested area. So I was thinking of using the wavy clear polycarbonate roof to allow winter sunlight in to somewhat warm it up. Massachusetts winters can be very cold. But I think the regular roof would be easier, more aesthetically pleasing and may have more insulating value. What has been everyones experience using polycarbonate vs regular roof with trusses, plywood and either shingles or metal roof?
In coop probably solid roof would be best because of snow load and water tightness.
Insulation value is moot due good ventilation.
A run roof can benefit from having some clear panels...after you clear the snow off of them ;-)

I have always used metal roofing with a piece or two of the polycarbonate. They fit together perfectly and the metal is about a quarter the cost. Chickens like to be closed in at night. I fear an open polycarbonate top would make them feel a little unsecure. With just one sheet or clear properly placed on the roof you get the benefit from the warming/drying sun and the benefit of the dark top cheap roof. You said your coop will be seven ft tall. Is that the coop itself or the run? How will your ventilation be and how tall will your roost be. Out of the permanent coops I've built the ones with the best designed ventilation and interior provide the happiest spot for you and them
LA is not like MA...I would think you'd want a solid roof in LA to keep sun out of coop..at least most the year.
 
Ya never built one for a snow load lol but they can handle some rain! My studs are usually 2 ft apart with 1x4s perpendicular to them to screw the metal too. Would metal help our hurt the snow melting off of it?
 

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