The fender washers etc needed for hardware cloth?

I used beer caps for the hardware cloth. I flatten them with a hammer then use a nail to punch a hole, then just use screws the same way I did with fender washers. I actually like the bottle cap better than the fender wahsers-- 1) free. I don't drink beer, but plenty of my friends do. One work in a restaurant and I got a bag full of it whenever I want; 2) I can use any size of screw by simply make the hole bigger or smaller; and 3) very decorative. One side of my run I arranged the bottle caps by alternating patterns in each row...so much fun
Yes they are strong enough.
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Thank you! I guess I might surprise hubby with a box o' Bud this weekend lol! And I can also ask around. Maybe a local pub will let me drop off a little basket for them to chuck some in one night only, it would be enough to finish off the coop even if they only remembered to put them in there 1/2 the time!
 
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Thank you! I guess I might surprise hubby with a box o' Bud this weekend lol! And I can also ask around. Maybe a local pub will let me drop off a little basket for them to chuck some in one night only, it would be enough to finish off the coop even if they only remembered to put them in there 1/2 the time!
Miller Lite is my favorite-- I mean the caps; pretty blue with gold trim
If you will be in San Antonio in near future, let me know. I can get you a bag full. Six flags and Sea World .... less than 1/2 hour from my house. :)
 
BudgieBoy, Got a pic of this strapping you used? I'm planning my run and will begin building this weekend and looking for ideas.
Out of the Brooder, got a pic of what you've done so far? I plan to use hardware cloth and washers too but now am rethinking the wood trim. But I'd like to see what fender washers and self tapping screws are. Thanks!
 
That plumber strating looks like a great idea!!! Do you just do screws every so far or do you use washers too?

I'm going to post what we've got so far for the run. We are having trouble stabilizing it. Our run is 8X16. Not as big as I wanted but that's what we've got for this year. $$ only goes so far. Maybe can add a bit on next year. We did it basically in two 8' squares. One under the lean to for winter use and another 8' square out into the sun for more summer use. Here's some pics. First one is the whole run (haven't done the sides or top fencing yet. Bottom is done already with welded wire fencing. Sides will be hardware cloth, cha ching! And top will be welded wire fencing. Does that sound like a good plan? I worry about the floor fencing. I tried to secure it but I do trip on it. Should we cover the run in soil somehow? I was planning on hay but should I do a good layer of soil first and is hay ok?



Window is going on the outdoor wall to the right tomorrow eve. That should help with light and air.



The outdoor part is the part that is a bit shakey. The inside part we were able to stabilize the vertical boards against the inside wall. Now wall on the outside so how do we stabilize these ones?



This shows you the brackets we used that attaches the boards to the wall. Work like a charm. We had to do that because there is one support beam that sticks out, of course.

And a fun pic of the girls and guys enjoying frozen watermelon and grapes:



Thanks for any suggestions!!
 
I did small pics, let me know if I should upload them larger. Oh and all wood is 2X4X8 except vertical boards are 6' tall not 8'. There are a few horizontal top boards along top edges that are strappings but rest are 2X4's.
 
Easiest way to stabilize it is to use diagonal braces. (ignore the dimensions, its just the first picture I could find).

Also, on opposite sides of the structure have the braces run the opposite way, so that when you stare straight at it from the side you see an "X" formed by the two braces on the two sides. That way the braces work against each other and help keep it from moving or twisting.

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Looks like this should do the trick! Does this require what is called mitre? I don't have that tool so will need to adjust some how.
 
Looks like this should do the trick! Does this require what is called mitre? I don't have that tool so will need to adjust some how.
yes, like in the drawing you should try to saw the ends at a 45 degree angle so it fits tight. Easiest was is to hold the board in place and mark it with a pencil instead of trying to measure it, then cut to the line; otherwise, if you're not used to measuring boards cut with miters you often end up cutting too short.

Note- "cutting to the line" isn't really an accurate description, since there are three options- to cut leaving the pencil line, to cut down the middle of the line, and to cut so you remove the line. Those can result in noticeable difference in length, so pay attention to that- think about it when you draw the line so you know how to cut to make a tight fit without the brace being too long to fit in there.
 
Note- "cutting to the line" isn't really an accurate description, since there are three options- to cut leaving the pencil line, to cut down the middle of the line, and to cut so you remove the line. Those can result in noticeable difference in length, so pay attention to that- think about it when you draw the line so you know how to cut to make a tight fit without the brace being too long to fit in there.
They are not building cabinets here... 1/32 of an inch doesn't really matter when building a chicken run. dominiques, just scribe it, cut it and nail it. You'll be fine.
 

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