The Great Egg Shipping Experiment!

[BunnyMomma]

Hi all!
Bunnymomma "Noodle method" I love it!
You are such a doll!

I'm blessed to have your friendship!
I heard about the monitors -had no idea they were that cheap. But will they shut off after first shipment or record the return trip too? Would you own the monitor?
Now that we know the "package insurance" really does pay-folks need to know that the monitor is for their benifit, or they might not want to pay extra for deposit.
I might be over thinking it. LOL

Hi Sis! I am so glad we are friends. I did not realize they were this inexpensive either. From what I discovered by looking at the sensors, it looks like you can get 2 kinds of sensors. One is a one time use, and the others are reusable. At 5.00 per sensor, it would probably be fairly cost effective to use these for more expensive eggs or for shipments of eggs that are valued over 100.00. I would probably not use them for most of my shipments, but I'm thinking about using them for my "Baby Doll" Cochins, when I begin shipping their eggs next year. They would be awesome for people like Silkiesuz, because she ships Jubilee Orpington eggs and they sell for a small fortune. It would probably only cost a 1.00 to have the monitor shipped back and you can reuse them (I think I read 25 times). I will probably invest in some this coming year. They are not electronic, but are spring loaded to withstand a certain amount of G's. If they are dropped the spring will go off and will show up on the monitor as possible damage. That would give the buyer an idea of possible damage, even if the box were in good shape the damage could have occurred from impact. I totally agree that the customer might not want to pay for the monitor. I might want to put the monitor in the box anyway, just so I will have an additional method of proof of mishandling and damage during transit. The deposit could be refunded to the customer if they returned it. I could put a return postage paid envelope in the box and if they want a refund they would just mail the sensor back. I could reuse them 20 or so times and it would save a few dollars to be able to reuse them.
I will say this, I have heard for years that you cannot insure hatching eggs. It is a myth! I would never have found this out, except I called the USPS customer service center and filed a complaint a few months ago about some Chocolate Orps that I had ordered. The service rep was really very helpful and he said that I could definitely insure any item of value. It is good to know, because I was becoming discouraged about shipping eggs. Now I feel much better about it.
Hey! I am always overthinking stuff! LOL!

 

[chickadoodles]

Remember to Quarantine them for two weeks and treat them for parasites.

Ok. Thanks Ron. How to you treat them for parasites the easiest way?

 

[MeanV2]

Hi, I would leave them in the bator a few more days. I have had some slow hatches sometimes and I have had a few chicks to hatch on day 22 thru days 24. I have increased the incubator temps a degree or 2 on some breeds of eggs if I notice I have been having some slow hatches! I will keep my fingers crossed!

Thanks for the advice! Got up this morning and the WL & SBEL have one hatched each with one more SBEL pipped. the BA's, Marans, LA's are no shows still. It was 21 days yesterday afternoon.

Dan

 

[BunnyMomma]

Thanks for the advice! Got up this morning and the WL & SBEL have one hatched each with one more SBEL pipped. the BA's, Marans, LA's are no shows still. It was 21 days yesterday afternoon.

Dan

 

[Wisher1000]

Hey Dan, are you sure it was not the age-old debate over what, exactly is day one?

Some say it is the first 24 hours that the eggs are in the bator, some say day one starts after the first 24 hours. It's kinda' like how babies are not one on the day of their birth, but after the first year. I see both arguments.

That may explain a lot of "one day late" hatches.

 

[ronott1]

Ok. Thanks Ron. How to you treat them for parasites the easiest way?

First Dust them or dip them--depending on how you feel about pesticides, either use poultry dust or Food grade DE.

Then follow Dawg53s method to worm them:

WORMING YOUR CHICKENS - FROM THE GOSPEL of JAMES (Chapter dawg53 1-2-3)
*****
1. Wazine17 - two ounces in two gallons of water for one day - dump eggs for two weeks
*****
...Ten days later:
2. Valbazen -one half cc/ml for standard size chickens, one quarter cc/ml for smaller chickens including silkies. You can use a syringe to squirt it down their throats individually or you can inject it into a small piece of bread and give each chicken a piece of bread....they gobble it up. - dump the eggs for two weeks
*****
3. ...after a couple of days of using both wormers....give your chickens plain yogurt or buttermilk(probiotics), canned beef catfood (extra protein), all mixed in their feed and give it to them to build up their immune systems, do this about 3 days in a row. Then you'll have healthy, happy chickens lol.
The next time you worm,say in about 6 months or whenever you see fit...you can use the valbazen first, no need to use the wazine unless you want to. Please PM anytime and I'll be happy to help you with worming.

The only thing I would add is that you can use Ivomec for the first worming. Contray to what folks are saying, Ivomec kills worms at my place.

Enjoy the new chickens!

 

[chickadoodles]

First Dust them or dip them--depending on how you feel about pesticides, either use poultry dust or Food grade DE.

Then follow Dawg53s method to worm them:

WORMING YOUR CHICKENS - FROM THE GOSPEL of JAMES (Chapter dawg53 1-2-3)
*****
1. Wazine17 - two ounces in two gallons of water for one day - dump eggs for two weeks
*****
...Ten days later:
2. Valbazen -one half cc/ml for standard size chickens, one quarter cc/ml for smaller chickens including silkies. You can use a syringe to squirt it down their throats individually or you can inject it into a small piece of bread and give each chicken a piece of bread....they gobble it up. - dump the eggs for two weeks
*****
3. ...after a couple of days of using both wormers....give your chickens plain yogurt or buttermilk(probiotics), canned beef catfood (extra protein), all mixed in their feed and give it to them to build up their immune systems, do this about 3 days in a row. Then you'll have healthy, happy chickens lol.
The next time you worm,say in about 6 months or whenever you see fit...you can use the valbazen first, no need to use the wazine unless you want to. Please PM anytime and I'll be happy to help you with worming.

The only thing I would add is that you can use Ivomec for the first worming. Contray to what folks are saying, Ivomec kills worms at my place.

Enjoy the new chickens!

Thank you so much Ron! I do appreciate your help very much!

 

[MeanV2]

Hey Dan, are you sure it was not the age-old debate over what, exactly is day one?

Some say it is the first 24 hours that the eggs are in the bator, some say day one starts after the first 24 hours. It's kinda' like how babies are not one on the day of their birth, but after the first year. I see both arguments.

That may explain a lot of "one day late" hatches.

Wisher, I counted 1 day after 24 hours then day 2, etc. and so on. Day 21 was yesterday late afternoon. I now have 4 hatched all out of the White Leghorn & White Leghorn cross eggs. The Marans, Lavender Amerucanas, & Black Australorps are just laying there. Is that normal? One breed hatching earlier? Things in the Bator must have been pretty good to hatch the WL's. I have a Dickey 2X2 incubator and temp & humidity have stayed pretty constant. Thanks!

I am still hoping for something from the other eggs. The Eggs that are hatching and the Marans eggs were shipped together by the same person so they were exposed to the same exact trip with the same bumps if there was any.

Dan

 

[ronott1]

Wisher, I counted 1 day after 24 hours then day 2, etc. and so on. Day 21 was yesterday late afternoon. I now have 4 hatched all out of the White Leghorn & White Leghorn cross eggs. The Marans, Lavender Amerucanas, & Black Australorps are just laying there. Is that normal? One breed hatching earlier? Things in the Bator must have been pretty good to hatch the WL's. I have a Dickey 2X2 incubator and temp & humidity have stayed pretty constant. Thanks!

I am still hoping for something from the other eggs. The Eggs that are hatching and the Marans eggs were shipped together by the same person so they were exposed to the same exact trip with the same bumps if there was any.

Dan

All is Nominal Houston!

Yes, some breeds hatch first. It makes hatching different breeds quite a long drawn out process sometimes. Marans are famous for being late. Australorps seem to hatch close to on time. I did hatch TJs leghorns but I do not remember if they hatched early.

My guess it that the Ameraucanas will hatch and then the Australorps.

 

[clfromok]

Just wanted to add my two cents for MeanV2
Everytime I hatch my EEs, the eggs from my white Leghorns & blue andalution hens always hatch first!