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Yes, all makes sense. I do forget... you guys have four distinct seasons! I've lived in the South, unbearably hot and humid during summer months. And the North, short growing season for plants and animals.For someone in Hawaii, it may be easy to forget just how tough upper midwest winters can be. It is best not to have wee chicks hatched in fall. Since daylight hours are constant in Hawaii, it may also be easier to forget the maturing pullets need sunlight. We really want our laying pullets to be hatched in late February through March. These pullets stand the best chance of coming into laying form before the deep darkness of the following winter. A summer hatched pullet has no chance of maturing until the following spring. That's a lot of feed and a long wait for eggs. Many of us have an agricultural or homestead aspect to all this.
Collecting fertile eggs and keeping them cool in the heat of summer is almost impossible. Shipping fertile eggs to customers in the heat of summer is risky business in hot Post Office trucks.
Finally, many breeders use rather small match systems. This isn't the old "one rooster to 10 hens" ratio you hear so much about here on BYC. With small number matings, the hens can be over mated and that's tough on the female. She needs a break. The cock birds also need time off.
So, if you put all this together a picture forms as to why most folks break up their breeding pens in May. Hope all my meandering thoughts helps.
I have been reading a lot about the darker horn coloring in Reds beaks. I'm not so convinced that a Dark horn beak means Darker Plumage. Some have darker beaks and lighter plumage and vice versa. I have bred Production Reds with white rocks that have a nice dark horn colored beak. Maybe someone else can chime in on the whole Genetics of dark horn coloring in the beak relating to plumage.
My red crosses have dark beaks too!!! I don't know if theres a corralation either only that dark beaks and dark plumage go good together in HRIR lol
It takes me quite a while before I can part from the misbehaving boys, and spend a lot of time to rehabilitate the bad behaviors, and our success rate in doing so have not been that good. Always, they are oh so sweet and adorable as babies; but, when the testosterone starts to kick in, they turn into entirely different beings..Fred has some good points here.
I frequently keep a rooster with my production layers all the time... but never fewer than 10-15 (preferably more) hens because they just get worn out. And even then, the roos always have their favorites who always looked shabby... but those were also my best layers. Being a sustainable farm, when I am down to only 1 production roo (like right now) I like to keep one with the hens in case something unexpectedly happens and I find myself without a roo - at least I have fertile eggs and don't need to bring in new blood. But... this is just for my production layers... a self-perpetuating practical aspect for emergencies. Not to mention they can be handy at discouraging "minor" predation.
For heritage or rare breeds I just don't want to wear the hens out. Longevity is a higher priority than flash in the pan heavy and fast laying, easily replaceable hens.
I have raised Cornish x's several times and have found that fall is actually my favorite time of year to do that... scheduling them to arrive about Labor Day. The nights are beginning to cool down a bit, but I still have forage through Oct or Nov, but it's not so hot to prevent good growth. Unlike spring, things are pretty quiet here (as in lambing and calving are over), so fall is a quiet time of year with more time. Also, processing 50-100 meat birds in November is nice when the weather is cool.
As with all the males here though... you must play well with others when it's not breeding season or you can't stay. Bulls must get along, rams must cohabitate nicely after breeding season, etc. I do not provide individual bedrooms for bulls, rams, and roos. Play well with others or the slaughter knife is always handy.
My husband is glad he is the only human male on the farm.![]()
Mine too, I have some really dark pro reds in the first place but even still yet some of my crop out lighter ones from the instilled RSL blood have a fairly dark beak.
so I agree too with the second half of your post as well, it too, probly has to do with them being really dark red, like almost black and the whole beak being dark and not gradient from yellow/orangish at the face to darker towards the tip, maybe?![]()
Jeff
It depends how long have you been razing R I Reds. If you have for many years you can spot certain traits that some strains have. I only know one strain the Mohawk strain.
I have been reading a lot about the darker horn coloring in Reds beaks. I'm not so convinced that a Dark horn beak means Darker Plumage. Some have darker beaks and lighter plumage and vice versa. I have bred Production Reds with white rocks that have a nice dark horn colored beak. Maybe someone else can chime in on the whole Genetics of dark horn coloring in the beak relating to plumage.