The Natural Chicken Keeping thread - OTs welcome!

I think we talked about this before but I don't remember what the consensus was. Can chickens eat acorns? Would it be a problem for someone to locate their coop under an oak where there are a pile of acorns?
 
I think we talked about this before but I don't remember what the consensus was. Can chickens eat acorns? Would it be a problem for someone to locate their coop under an oak where there are a pile of acorns?
I remember this being a long post on another thread last fall. I wouldnt think that the chickens could eat acorns whole so putting a coop under a tree wouldnt be a problem IMO.

Here is the link to the discussion.......I just searched the forum and tried to find the start lol
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/231485/ny-chicken-lover/12220#post_9424446
 
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I think we talked about this before but I don't remember what the consensus was. Can chickens eat acorns? Would it be a problem for someone to locate their coop under an oak where there are a pile of acorns?
My coop is under an oak tree and my property is covered with oaks and my chickens peck and scratch around in the acorns but they don't seem to eat the acorn meat.
 
Well those are my thoughts too...thanks for all the input on the acorns! I just didn't want to tell them "no problem" then have the birds drop dead the next day
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LOL - the oak tree on this property hangs over the road. The chickens would wait for the cars to run over the fallen acorns and then stand about in the road eating all they wanted. They seem to be still alive...


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Well, ya know, the way you hear some folks, if they even glance at an acorn sideways they're going to drop dead on the spot...maybe yours just carry wolfbane
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Seriously...I think they know enough that they avoid stuff that's bad for them unless they're starving to death!
 
I'm not Mumsy or Del but I have hatched my fair share of shipped eggs and this is what I have learned. It really depends on how the post office handles them and no matter what you do after if they got scrambled they are scramble.....
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BUT if they have detached aircells you can help them. Many people say do not put them in the incubator right away and keep them pointy side down for 24 hours. If the eggs are really cold I let them warm up before they go in the incubator..... I also start them in a cool incubator so they both come to temperature together and do not shock the eggs.... I believe the reason they tell you not to put them in the incubator is because they want them to sit still to let the aircells reattach.... I figure the eggs are getting older by the day so, I ignore the don't put them in the incubator advice but I DO NOT TURN THEM for at least 24 hours I'd say longer and this is why..... I had a terrible hatch of Lavender Orps shipped from NY to CA and by terrible I mean not one hatched, nope not one.... the very nice woman sent me a replacement batch and she told me an old farmer swore that key was not to turn them for a WEEK!!! I had read so much about the embryos sticking to the shells I was so nervous to do this .... I tied my hands behind my back and looked and looked and looked and after 5 days I couldn't take it anymore, I cracked and turned them. Well guess what I got 7 out of 10 beautiful chicks (2 eggs broke in the shipment). Not to mention, I could see the aircells were detached when they got to me, so I was shocked so many hatched! I guess all that sitting did them good and they reattached. I do dry incubation but never let the humidity get lower then 20%..... and then I bump it to 60% at lockdown. Hope this helps.....


This is good advise..I have a few things to add..for shipped eggs it depends on if you have LF or silkies/bantam. The bantams ones you need to heat your incubator to 101 for the first 24 hours of incubation. Than turn it to regular heat. 100-99.5. Silkies need an extra day of higher heat in the beginning.
The biggest thing about shipped eggs is air cells and attachment. I get my incubator set up and going steady. Than unplug it..set the eggs inside (fat end up)and the next day plug in the heat. I gently check air cells in a few after day two and when they attach I turn on the turner. If it pushes it to day three I turn it on and just hope for the best. I do not handle shipped eggs like I do my own. They are more fragile and should not be handled. I check at day 18. I do not *lock down* until first pip. Air cells are more important than anything in shipped eggs. I put my humidity up or down depending on air cell development.

Humidity 30% till first pip. 55%-60% humidity after I see first pip or hear chicks.

I love this..now I am going to be looking for one to use
I forgot to say thank you two for this advice. I passed it on to the friend asking.

I have never hatched shipped eggs (it's not a big 'thing' here as it is in the US).
 
Aoxa - I'm also going to re-post this from earlier. This is why you have a hard time finding meat meal in feeds. My feed has the highest amount of fish meal it can without causing a "taste" in the eggs. I asked my formulator for meat meal and he just couldn't get it.

Interesting article on "vegetarian chickens"....
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Here's a quote from the article:
Yes I remember this article I shared it with Susan and we even read more about it on other news stories. It's disturbing to say the least!
Well, ya know, the way you hear some folks, if they even glance at an acorn sideways they're going to drop dead on the spot...maybe yours just carry wolfbane
lau.gif


Seriously...I think they know enough that they avoid stuff that's bad for them unless they're starving to death!
I have never watched mine eat acorns, but we have oak trees and don't see an abnormal amount of acorns on the ground, so either they are eating them, or the squirrel population is.
 

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