Quarantine questions: I am almost finished with my coop/run. My preference/fantasy is to find 4-6 pullets (Barred Rock, Light Sussex, and Silver-laced Wayandotte) all living at the same farm, so I can bring them all home together. I know this is unrealistic. So I most likely will find one breed at one place. No quarrantine problem. BUT if I ordered a couple from two (or three) different places, I would want to/need to quarrantine, right? I only have the one coop/run. I'm in a residential neighborhood (can have up to 12 hens, but am feeling like 6 is plenty) and have spent all my money on the main coop/run so I don't have space/money for extra safe coops/runs. Advice? Thanks.
Suggestion..
Get all the birds on the same day. Make sure you get them from reputable breeders. Have them tested before you purchase them. Do a stool sample on each bird when you get them. Test for cocci and worms. (Those tests are usually reasonable).
I would feed FF, heavy with garlic and oregano. If anyone tests positive for cocci, treat the whole group. If anyone tests positive for worms, treat the whole group. This will mean you do not quarantine. Your treat the group as a whole.
Some breeders vaccine for all diseases. You can go that route.
I do not think you will have problems finding a good breeder that has all of those breeds. I know of a few that have both BR and SLW. I am not sure about the light sussex.
You can do an inquiry right here on BYC.
? what can make meat birds tough .
incorrect cooling after the processing. Chickens need to be cooled for 2-3 days before cooking. I cut that time by brining after 12 hours.
New recipie
5 lemons, halved
24 bay leaves
1 bunch rosemary
1 bunch parsley
1 bunch thyme
1 cup honey
1/2 brown sugar
2 heads garlic, halved through the equator
1/4 cup black peppercorns
2 cups kosher salt
2 gallons water
boil and cool completly
place the chickens in a large bucket or cooler covered in ice for 12 hours. Drain off the water and leave any ice, pour the brine on and make sure the chickens are completely covered. Keep them cold in the brine for 12 hours by adding ice in the cooler.
roast or grill
Just had a very weird and sad thing happen.
Our friend has a small flock with no roosters. Two of his hens went broody. As he gets only brown eggs he asked us for 3 blue and 3 white to put under them so he could tell them apart.
Sadly he came home one day this week to find both of the broodies dead in the coop but not on the eggs. No marks on them. Said they had looked pale but since they were less than a week off hatch day that didn't seem too strange. Even weirder... The blue eggs had turned brown.
Has anyone ever heard of this? Could they have caught something from our flock?
We have added new birds without them getting sick so I don't think it would be from ours. Poor things.
I'll be bringing him some chicks once they hatch.
Blue eggs can't just turn brown unless they are rotten. Or perhaps he had not checked on them in a while and those brown eggs belonged to them since they lay brown eggs. Or it could be the birds starved on the nests. If I have a broody getting pale combs I know they have been on the nest to long and I take them off to go eat and drink. Some birds refuse to get off the nest. Both dying on the same day points to predators. I have never heard of a sickness of contaminated eggs killing a hen. However I would be interested to learn more about it if it is a possibility.
I'm going to have to take care of someone Else's birds for the week... Any ideas on how to make sure my birds don't get infected with anything his have? I know they have a respiratory sickness, and something else too, I REALLY don't want my birds getting sick, anything I can do to keep the flocks separated?? Thanks!
There is no way to make sure. You risk your birds by taking care of other birds.
To help prevent it you need to use bio security measures.
Invest in a bio suit and disposable shoe covers. Leave them in a closed container in your car.
Use gloves, use hand sanitizer before, after and during. Take a shower when you get home. Do not ware the same clothing with your birds until it has be laundered.
I am still trying to power through the trinity of threads, what a lot of reading! And it doesn't help that I am copy/pasting everything that strikes me into a word file. Certainly don't want to try to have to wade through all this again to find some info that I KNOW is in there lol.
I have two 15 m. buff orpington hatchery hens, they didn't molt last fall, laid regular as clockwork even without extra light. Their feathers look AWFUL. I've checked in bright light and at night for mites and lice, no signs of either. Down is really good, even some new feather nibs, skin is all good nice and pink. They have really taken to the FF (half all flock, half oats, with a handful of BOSS), they get fresh cut field grasses, veg, a meal worm every once in a while as I cannot free range. One is still regular with her egg, the other not so much maybe two a week.
Do the feathers just get worn? They look all lacy like the barbels have worn off, but the darn things just will not drop. Anything else I should be looking for?
Thanks for any ideas.
You are not feeding enough meat proteins
Question? I have totally free range hens, one has stopped laying in house. I found the secret egg stash today when I followed her she had 19 eggs in there and I didn't realize. I am trying to keep them in coop/ run longer to force house laying but she seems to be particularly stressed and when let her out she makes a hard bee line for nesting area. If forced will she start laying on house again or wait till I do let them out later in day?
She is prepping for nesting and hatching. Get a covered tote and put the nest including some of the nesting materials, some of egg in the tote(Mark the eggs). Cut an entrance hole in the tote and place it in your coop. Put her in it. She will stay in the coop more than likely with the nest of eggs. It sounds like she is going broody.
From Mumsy: Weasels are perfect little killing machines. That doesn't make them evil. Anymore than I would think of a domestic cat as evil. They are perfect killing machines as well. Both could cause havoc in my barn if allowed access. This is key. ACCESS.[/SIZE]
Rats are the normal diet of weasels. They can access a barn or coop from an opening as small as one inch. They find a ready made highway in old rat tunnels. If you kill off rats on your property and don't deal with the tunnels.....Weasels will need a new food source and rat tunnels will give them access....To your chickens.
I have tons of chipmunks and red squirrels. They will tunnel under and into a coop/run to get to the food; making a "highway" for weasels. (I've seen them in my yard.). So...I literally have wrapped my coop/run in 1/2 inch hardware cloth. (I HAVE been accused of over-building before!
) I will only be able to "cheap range" (as opposed to free) so when I am at work or asleep I can be reasonably sure the hens will be safe.
Better to be over built than under built.