The Natural Chicken Keeping thread - OTs welcome!

Kigot, the chick I had that started having neuro apparent issues, and treated successfully with vitamins and codliver oil, was Mrs Murphy, and she lasted a couple more months and then failed to thrive and eventually had to be culled. She made a miraculous recovery almost immediately with the vitamins, but...if I had known what was coming I would have preferred to cull her as a chick.

I've been reading online a 1920's poutry book on a cornell site (can't get the link to paste, but it is titled "Built and Used by Poultrymen" so if you google and go to the cornel site you can read it online or download, etc.

Anyway, there is an interesting version of a "mite-free" roost.

Looks like a coffee table. On the surface, roosts are mounted, and the "skirt" of the table has enclosed nest boxes with hinged sides, and it is tall enough for chickens to be underneat. the legs are set in oilsoaked cloth to prevent mites from going up the legs. It looked kind of interesting!
 
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Kigot, the chick I had that started having nero apparent issues, and treated successfully with vitamins and codliver oil, was Mrs Murphy, and she lasted a couple more months and then failed to thrive and eventually had to be culled. She made a miraculous recovery almost immediately with the vitamins, but...if I had known what was coming I would have preferred to cull her as a chick.

I've been reading online a 1920's poutry book on a cornell site (can't get the link to paste, but it is titled "Built and Used by Poultrymen" so if you google and go to the cornel site you can read it online or download, etc.

Anyway, there is an interesting version of a "mite-free" roost.

Looks like a coffee table. On the surface, roosts are mounted, and the "skirt" of the table has enclosed nest boxes with hinged sides, and it is tall enough for chickens to be underneat. the legs are set in oilsoaked cloth to prevent mites from going up the legs. It looked kind of interesting!

I wish you could do that link! I tried to find but no luck except to purchase the book through book dealers.

Thanks for the story of Mrs. Murphy. It's good to hear everyone's experiences so that we can make good decisions.

Culling...
I currently have a 1 yo that appears to have an egg retention. She hasn't been herself for awhile so I'm watching her closely. Seems to be eating well but just not herself. She may end up being my first cull for health reason.

So when y'all do a cull on an adult bird for health reasons do you do the kill the same way you would when you are processing for meat?
 
I wish you could do that link! I tried to find but no luck except to purchase the book through book dealers.

Thanks for the story of Mrs. Murphy. It's good to hear everyone's experiences so that we can make good decisions.

Culling...
I currently have a 1 yo that appears to have an egg retention. She hasn't been herself for awhile so I'm watching her closely. Seems to be eating well but just not herself. She may end up being my first cull for health reason.

So when y'all do a cull on an adult bird for health reasons do you do the kill the same way you would when you are processing for meat?

I do b/c either me or the dogs are going to eat it. I haven't had to cull for a systemic infection yet, if that was the issue I would not feed it to either us or the dogs. Mostly I have culled for injury (I almost never treat so don't have infection problems at cull) or failure to thrive type issues and have eaten all those. I had that one lame one that had massive teste tumor growth, but the flesh looked good and was cooked so I didn't see any reason not to eat him either.
 
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This is just for information for everyone reading since the bird is already dead..

There are good points to learn here
If you have a group of birds together and they are fed the same and you have one who is not well..cull the bird (injuries are different)
We are turning into over medicating and keeping weak birds. Breeding weakness into our back yard flocks..thn selling those chicks to other people..its frighting.
Do we want to have strong healthy birds or do we want to be medicating and treating for everything? It will never end. You will be running to the feed store every 5 minutes looking for some kind of treatment for this bird or that bird. You are not doing your birds any favors. The joy of having birds might not be so joyful if your pocket book is empty from all the treatment.








Quote: I kill the same ..but i skin the bird..and check it over very carefully..I normally do not feed out ill birds..but sometimes a bird can just become steryle and be ready for retirement at the age of two from bad breeding. She might be fine to eat. You will be able to tell from the liver color, and if she has extra internal fluids. If she looks good..I would treat her like any other butchered bird and eat her. if you re not positive..take some pictures and we can let you know.
 
This is a 1 year old girl that was my "mystery chick" when I thought I was getting 4 SFH and ended up with one that most closely resembles a BA so that is what I refer to her as being. An early and prolific layer until molt last November. 2 of my 25 week olds are her children (BA/SFH cross).

She did the molt and has never really recovered. First just the normal "molt mope". She re-feathered very well and they are glossy and healthy looking. Comb and wattles stayed pale longer than the others that were molting. Then I noticed that she would huddle by herself a lot. She's not very high on pecking order but she's not tormented and stands up for herself....just not quite acting like herself.

I'm pretty sure there hasn't been an egg since molt. I'm watching closely. At one point she wasn't eating like normal but I've seen that during molt before. Now she scrambles for the food like everyone else and seems to have a good appetite. Comb and wattles a little redder but not totally up to par. And still not herself. I keep hoping that I'll see a difference when it warms up a bit - as in she's just not handling the weather well - but that probably won't be the case.
 
I do b/c either me or the dogs are going to eat it. I haven't had to cull for a systemic infection yet, if that was the issue I would not feed it to either us or the dogs. Mostly I have culled for injury (I almost never treat so don't have infection problems at cull) or failure to thrive type issues and have eaten all those. I had that one lame one that had massive teste tumor growth, but the flesh looked good and was cooked so I didn't see any reason not to eat him either.

Thanks both.




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These are good points for those who are raising animals for food purposes or to sell to others for food purposes.

I think it's still hard for many of us who grew up with animals that were pets to make that transition in approach to animal husbandry for food. I most certainly agree that I want to perpetuate strong healthy birds. And I'm learning to do all the things that contribute to that...including culling when it's warranted.
 
I wish you could do that link! I tried to find but no luck except to purchase the book through book dealers.

Thanks for the story of Mrs. Murphy. It's good to hear everyone's experiences so that we can make good decisions.

Culling...
I currently have a 1 yo that appears to have an egg retention. She hasn't been herself for awhile so I'm watching her closely. Seems to be eating well but just not herself. She may end up being my first cull for health reason.

So when y'all do a cull on an adult bird for health reasons do you do the kill the same way you would when you are processing for meat?
https://archive.org/details/cu31924003089798

here's the google search: used the words "built and used by poutrymen" and got this:
  1. Built and used by poultrymen; a book describing ... - Internet Archive

    archive.org › ... › Cornell University Library
    Internet Archive


    Mar 17, 2010 - Built and used by poultrymen; a book describing and illustrating practical houses and appliances built and tested by experienced poultrymen ...
    You visited this page on 3/5/14.
hope that helps.
 
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yes, it promotes open air. One comment that was really helpful to me was to think about how far the sun can reach into your coop - so don't make it "deeper" so there are areas less likely to get sun inside. I would not have thought about that.

Also was interested in the idea of keeping your windows no more than 12-18 inches off the ground, and to use those instead of chicken doors. Also related to getting sun inside the coop.

And the very beginning had a really good summary of how to decide where to put your coop - much emphasis on not placing it where water gathers - and we keep reading about people who ended up accidentally having their coop where the water collects.

Also like the idea of the burlap or muslin curtain to hang in front of the roosts to keep it a bit warmer in the really cold nights and to keep the drafts off the chickens. used in conjunction with open air or very well ventilated coops. Probably only works when you have a roosting shelf, or a poop board, so you kind of close out the drafts. Can't imagine how dusty that curtain would be though!

its a quick easy read.
 
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