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I had not considered that possibility, the horizontal nipples will screw INTO a standard threaded PVC Tee? Very convenient!!

That would work with what I did to insulate my horizontal 3/4" pipe in the bottom of the nest box. The ONLY thing that is visible under the bottom of the nest box is the metal pins and they don't usually freeze above about -15F. The water in those temps is heated to high 70s F with a submersible aquarium heater (water continuously circulated by a VERY small reptile waterfall pump). The stock tank heater only works to about +15F. The container is a 5 gallon insulated Igloo drink "cooler". But when several nipples leaked out I had to deconstruct the box to replace them. That was NOT in any plan I had. I figure if I need to make a new one, it will be a separate unit with horizontal nipples since people seem to have good luck with them not freezing. Being able to screw the horizontal nipples into Tees would make it super easy to insulate the pipe inside a plywood "box" that could be mounted wherever it is needed.
 
They'll screw into 1/8" PVC but that's not a common fitting. I've found about 3 companies that carry them but none local. 1/8" is only available in a tee for a 1/2" pipe.
You can also drill larger PVC pipe and thread the nipple into it but it needs to be at least 3" PVC. They won't thread into the hole on smaller diameters. I just find the reducing tees work best for me. It would be cheaper not to use tees but going up to the larger diameter pipe negates some of that savings.
prices vary dramatically from about 50 cents to $3 ea.
You can get 1/2X1/8" bushings for 39 cents but those won't help with a circulated system.
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/ca...8-sch-40-pvc-reducing-tee-soc-x-fipt-402-071/

That's very similar to my setup.
I'm using an aquarium pump and an inline heater. I don't use the pump in warm weather. Most of the year it is gravity fed.
 
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I have vertical and horizontal and will keep both but you gave me an idea that solves 2 problems (bad engineering). I need more volume and i need a way to drain off spilled water. Since this editor refuses to embed pics ill just explain......i use 4" pvc but terminated it to leave room for feeders. All i have to do is extend it to the wall, leave bedding out under it and engineer a means for water to drain. The feeders can be hung from the pipe, at the other side of the coop, before the water station. Piece a cake :) That will give me another gallon or so water volume and move the drink station to the end of the line where it can be easily drained. Floor already has some taper. Ill just salt the floor in winter (chickens need salt too right ?) Just kidding. Ill think of something.
 
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They'll screw into 1/8" PVC but that's not a common fitting. I've found about 3 companies that carry them but none local. 1/8" is only available in a tee for a 1/2" pipe.
You can also drill larger PVC pipe and thread the nipple into it but it needs to be at least 3" PVC. They won't thread into the hole on smaller diameters. I just find the reducing tees work best for me. It would be cheaper not to use tees but going up to the larger diameter pipe negates some of that savings.
prices vary dramatically from about 50 cents to $3 ea.
You can get 1/2X1/8" bushings for 39 cents but those won't help with a circulated system.
http://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/ca...8-sch-40-pvc-reducing-tee-soc-x-fipt-402-071/

That's very similar to my setup.
I'm using an aquarium pump and an inline heater. I don't use the pump in warm weather. Most of the year it is gravity fed.

I used 3/4" PVC only because that is what the saddle nipples need
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I would rather spend a bit of money for the "speciality" 1/8" Tees for an easy build than screw around with huge diameter pipe which would be WAY difficult to insulate and holes HOPEFULLY drilled to the EXACT size needed to keep them from leaking.

I have vertical and horizontal and will keep both but you gave me an idea that solves 2 problems (bad engineering). I need more volume and i need a way to drain off spilled water. Since this editor refuses to embed pics ill just explain......i use 4" pvc but terminated it to leave room for feeders. All i have to do is extend it to the wall, leave bedding out under it and engineer a means for water to drain. The feeders can be hung from the pipe, at the other side of the coop, before the water station. Piece a cake :) That will give me another gallon or so water volume and move the drink station to the end of the line where it can be easily drained. Floor already has some taper. Ill just salt the floor in winter (chickens need salt too right ?) Just kidding. Ill think of something.


There really is no need for volume in the nipple pipe unless you have a bazillion birds. My puny pump isn't pushing a lot of water, just keeping it moving through the pipe and back to the tank where the heaters are (only in freezing temps, otherwise just gravity feed like CC's setup). I think the tubing from my cooler to the 3/4" pipe is 3/8". Of course the cooler is on the wall directly behind the water pipe in the coop, a long distance would require a bigger pump to get the water "out and back".
 
I put mine right in the bucket, knew they wouldn't seal cause no way is plastic going to thread into plastic. They did have rubber gaskets but I took it a step further, two part epoxy . No leaks except when they drink so minimal.
 
I put mine right in the bucket, knew they wouldn't seal cause no way is plastic going to thread into plastic. They did have rubber gaskets but I took it a step further, two part epoxy . No leaks except when they drink so minimal.
This is sold on amazon:


I made my own though and have a float like this hooked up to a garden hose--via quick connect:



The chickens do make a but of a water splash, but it evaporates. It is a great auto water system--best that I have used yet.

It is a lot less expensive to make them than to buy them.

https://www.amazon.com/Farmer-Brad-...67474&sr=8-9&keywords=bucket+water+with+float
 
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It certainly is if you arent used to coping with extreme heat. Hydration is imperitive... you dont feel the sweat as it evaporates off you.... then as you drink water your electrolytes dilute or are sweated out. so Keeping up on eating green leafy vegetables isnt practical.... Gatoraide is good keeping a low profile is good.

and essentail to keep your core temperature from rising. Heat stroke is the killer. I have had it about three times now.... starting back when I was a kid in San Bernardino.... Vegas too.... Left in the car while mom went in for groceries... electric windows too I was about seven or eight. Rules were dont open the door... I followed the rules... Must have been about 140 by the time mom came out.... the dog and I had used up all the air .... it felt like.

Cold compresses on the neck... Loos fitting clothing made of cotton... and keep covered. as cool as it may feel with clohes off.... You lose moisture too quickly.

deb
 

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