The Rhodebar thread!

[sjcshawna]

i dont know if i can come up with that unless i could put some type of divider in the incubator when they get ready to hatch

 

[sjcshawna]

I should have just gotten on here and gotten eggs from someone like you that i wouldnt have to worry about lying and then me trying to figure out what the heck i got. These people advertised their eggs as ones from greenfire farms parent stock directly from them so i thought i was playing it safe when i got them. Guess i was wrong!

 

[melroseladi]

I should have just gotten on here and gotten eggs from someone like you that i wouldnt have to worry about lying and then me trying to figure out what the heck i got. These people advertised their eggs as ones from greenfire farms parent stock directly from them so i thought i was playing it safe when i got them. Guess i was wrong!

Many GFF Rhodebars lay lighter (tint) eggs. If they are GFF stock then it wouldn't be unusual for the eggs to be lighter, different shades of brown. Heck I have a pure RC HRIR that lays a much lighter colored egg then my SC HRIR's lay. Just hatch them out, take some pics, and post them here and we will see what you've got. Then take the best of those and use those as your foundation flock to better your line.

Penny

 

[nicalandia]

Genetics question of the day...

Consider the four different ways to achieve BC1s...
Option 1: you originally bred a RB male to a HRIR female, then for your BC1 you would breed your F1 female back to RB male.
Option 2: you originally bred a RB male to a HRIR female, then for your BC1 you would breed your F1 male back to HRIR female.
Option 3: you breed a HRIR male to a RB female and then breed an F1 male to a RB female.
Option 4: you breed a HRIR male to a RB female and then breed an F1 female to a HRIR male.

Statistically your BC1 result options will be the same... but... Will one breeding path lead to easier interpretation and identification than the other?
I believe it is going to be more difficult to identify e+e+ vs. e+eWh than I had originally hoped and I'm trying to "guess" if identification of heterozygous wildtype might be easier with one path than another.
IOW... using really dark HRIR chicks is a two edged sword.

Does anyone have a SWAG about the results without having to raise them out and breed them to find out.

I would take Option 2, Hatch as many as possible, as only 50% of them will be e+/eWh and 50% of them will be barred. this cross will produce the outmost improvement as they would be 75% HRIR but you would have to hatch at least 50 chicks, about 25% of them will be e+/eWh and B/- and e+/eWh B/b+ at this stage you would have already culled the unwanted F1s(you really dont need to hatch more than 25 F1s)


now the difficulty is not really that bad, I mean if you cant tell the e+/eWh from pure e+/e+ that means you can back cross to HRIR indefinitely and always be able to tell the e+/- from pure eWh/eWh

 

[RedRidge]

 
I should have just gotten on here and gotten eggs from someone like you that i wouldnt have to worry about lying and then me trying to figure out what the heck i got.  These people advertised their eggs as ones from greenfire farms parent stock directly from them so i thought i was playing it safe when i got them.  Guess i was wrong!

Many GFF Rhodebars lay lighter (tint) eggs. If they are GFF stock then it wouldn't be unusual for the eggs to be lighter, different shades of brown.  Heck I have a pure RC HRIR that lays a much lighter colored egg then my SC HRIR's lay.  Just hatch them out, take some pics, and post them here and we will see what you've got. Then take the best of those and use those as your foundation flock to better your line.

Penny

Penny is right.
You won't know till you try.

 

[melroseladi]

I would take Option 2, Hatch as many as possible, as only 50% of them will be e+/eWh and 50% of them will be barred. this cross will produce the outmost improvement as they would be 75% HRIR but you would have to hatch at least 50 chicks, about 25% of them will be e+/eWh and B/- and e+/eWh B/b+ at this stage you would have already culled the unwanted F1s(you really dont need to hatch more than 25 F1s)


now the difficulty is not really that bad, I mean if you cant tell the e+/eWh from pure e+/e+ that means you can back cross to HRIR indefinitely and always be able to tell the e+/- from pure eWh/eWh

Marvin what about crossing F1's that are half siblings produced by same RB cock but different HRIR hens?

Penny

 

[RedRidge]

Genetics question of the day...


Consider the four different ways to achieve BC1s...

Option 1: you originally bred a RB male to a HRIR female, then for your BC1 you would breed your F1 female back to RB male.

Option 2: you originally bred a RB male to a HRIR female, then for your BC1 you would breed your F1 male back to HRIR female.

Option 3: you breed a HRIR male to a RB female and then breed an F1 male to a RB female.

Option 4: you breed a HRIR male to a RB female and then breed an F1 female to a HRIR male.


Statistically your BC1 result options will be the same... but... Will one breeding path lead to easier interpretation and identification than the other?

I believe it is going to be more difficult to identify e+e+ vs. e+eWh than I had originally hoped and I'm trying to "guess" if identification of heterozygous wildtype might be easier with one path than another.

IOW... using really dark HRIR chicks is a two edged sword.


Does anyone have a SWAG about the results without having to raise them out and breed them to find out.

I would take Option 2, Hatch as many as possible, as only 50% of them will be e+/eWh and 50% of them will be barred. this cross will produce the outmost improvement as they would be 75% HRIR but you would have to hatch at least 50 chicks, about 25% of them will be e+/eWh and B/- and e+/eWh B/b+ at this stage you would have already culled the unwanted F1s(you really dont need to hatch more than 25 F1s)


now the difficulty is not really that bad, I mean if you cant tell the e+/eWh from pure e+/e+ that means you can back cross to HRIR indefinitely and always be able to tell the e+/- from pure eWh/eWh 

So then? Take those BC1 (the 25% who are e+/eWh and single barred) and cross then to each other? Or cross them back to RB?

 

[nicalandia]

Marvin what about crossing F1's that are half siblings produced by same RB cock but different HRIR hens?

Penny

Not Recomended at this stage.... you would have to hatch about 60 eggs from birds that have the least amount of improvement you could achieve, a Back cross to HRIR is the way to go.. take the much improved BC1 Barred e+/eWh females and mate them to the e+/eWh B/- F1 males to produce some e+/e+ B/B males.(would need to hatch about 80 chicks)

 

[melroseladi]

Not Recomended at this stage.... you would have to hatch about 60 eggs from birds that have the least amount of improvement you could achieve, a Back cross to HRIR is the way to go.. take the much improved BC1 Barred e+/eWh females and mate them to the e+/eWh B/- F1 males to produce some e+/e+ B/B males.(would need to hatch about 80 chicks)

80 chicks?

Penny

 

[nicalandia]

So then? Take those BC1 (the 25% who are e+/eWh and single barred) and cross then to each other? Or cross them back to RB?

if you want to have 100% Barred birds I would take the Best BC1 Females and cross it back to the Best Rhodebar male you can possible get your hands on... the will produce 50% e+/eWh B/B males and 50% e+/e+ B/B males, I can only guess how to tell them appart... now this cross will produce much improvement, but crossing back to F1 single barred male that is also e+/eWh would produce the most improvement but you would only be hatching 50% e+/e+ and some of them would be single barred