The Rhodebar thread!

80 chicks?
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Penny
only 50% of them would be B/B and 50% of them would be e+/e+... maybe 60 would be minimum?...


or you could take the Best BC1 females and cross them back to Pure Rhodebar Male and get 100% B/B males and 100% B/- females but only 50% of them will be pure e+/e+ so hatching about 40 would be minimum...
 
 


80 chicks? :th

Penny

only 50% of them would be B/B and 50% of them would be e+/e+... maybe 60 would be minimum?...


or you could take the Best BC1 females and cross them back to Pure Rhodebar Male and get 100% B/B males and 100% B/- females but only 50% of them will be pure e+/e+ so hatching about 40 would be minimum...

But we're still not sure if will be able to tell e+/e+ from e+/eWh at this point right?
 
So at what point will we see head spots and autosexing?
B/B males.... you are clearly seeing the Autosexing females chicks e+/eWh b/- the issue is that B/b+ e+/eWh males are not doing their part in standing out from the female chicks...

BC1 Female e+/eWh B/- mated to Rhodebar male would produce 50% e+/e+ B/-(and B/B males) and 50% e+/eWh B/- females and 50% e+/eWh B/B males....

now it would be easy to cull the wheaten looking e+/eWh chicks from the pure e+/e+ chicks(as you did with F1s) but it would be impossible to tell the Wildtype looking e+/eWh females from the e+/e+ pure wildtype females, the only give a way would be if you kept one e+/eWh female that look 100% Rhodebar but still produce wheaten looking chick when crossed back to pure Rhodebars...

so we know that some e+/eWh B/- females would look just like their e+/e+ B/- sisters, but as for e+/eWh B/B Males we have yet to see them... we may end up with the same issue, not being able to tell them appart untill we outcross them to pure Rhodebar..
 
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This is what I picture in my head for the RB chicks to look like, female with dark striping and male lighter but still distinguishable markings (not the hodge podge coloring we have seen in male RB chicks) and of course head spot. If my thinking is correct then I should only be keeping F1's regardless male or female that show the distinctive chipmunk stripes and then the head spot will come when crossing back to Rhodebar. Is this correct or have I misthought this?

Penny
 
So at what point will we see head spots and autosexing?

B/B males.... you are clearly seeing the Autosexing females chicks e+/eWh b/- the issue is that B/b+ e+/eWh males are not doing their part in standing out from the female chicks...

BC1 Female e+/eWh B/- mated to Rhodebar male would produce 50% e+/e+ B/-(and B/B males) and 50% e+/eWh B/- females and 50% e+/eWh B/B males....

now it would be easy to cull the wheaten looking e+/eWh chicks from the pure e+/e+ chicks(as you did with F1s) but it would be impossible to tell the Wildtype looking e+/eWh females from the e+/e+ pure wildtype females, the only give a way would be if you kept one e+/eWh female that look 100% Rhodebar but still produce wheaten looking chick when crossed back to pure Rhodebars...

so we know that some e+/eWh B/- females would look just like their e+/e+ B/- sisters, but as for e+/eWh B/B Males we have yet to see them... we may end up with the same issue, not being able to tell them appart untill we outcross them to pure Rhodebar..


You mentioned that it would be easy to cull the wheaten chicks just like we did with F1s, but so far we have not culled any F1s. I divided mine into 6 groups of colors and patterns but haven't determined anything more than that. Am I missing something? Are there some groups we can immediately eliminate?
 

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