The road less traveled...back to good health! They have lice, mites, scale mites, worms, anemia, gl

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boy u guys write quick ,lol went to town to buy some feed ,get back & already 30 new posts
 
thx -- just had partial roosting success! - put all on roost - some more than once - 3 seem to have settled down on the roost before I left. Interesting, it is the 3 most docile that stayed on the roost. Trouble the adventurer, a Buckeye, would have nothing to do with it. Bummer - if she went up there - they'd all follow I think. The BA's would have nothing to do with the roost at all either - very ****** I disturbed them.

Began pondering if I need more ventilation -- but they seem to spend all their time in the front 8 sq feet of coop - leaving the back 20 sq ft fairly untouched, and unpooped in.(why I stir it up - the front is messy - the back is pretty clean) . Of course as I think about it - the food & water (& pop door) is in that front 8 sq feet - because that is where I can reach from the outside. And I do get a full whiff as I open the people door since the floor of the coop is 30 inches off the ground. Thank goodness, the layer (Trouble) found the nest boxes which are more towards the back. Maybe I can move/relocate the food --&/ or throw some BOSS back there for them to play with to encourage more activity back there.

They are spending a few less hours foraging as they are at or near POL - but they have a large dog - er chicken-- run in addition to the coop - so not like they are 'cooped up', excepting overnight for predator protection.

will try to post pics tomorrow - haven't done that yet - will have to learn something new!
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boy u guys write quick ,lol went to town to buy some feed ,get back & already 30 new posts

 

No kidding! I was amazed at the number of posts between now and the last time I looked.

Anyway back to the NuStock thing. I went to the feed store and saw a tube: $20. Ain't happening. So I walked over to the gardening section and picked up some wettable powdered sulfur, a couple pounds, for $9. Already have some pine oil and mineral oil. BAM. Enough of that goo for a lifetime.

Anyway, the exact mix shouldn't be a problem. I remember when applying our sulfur and bacon grease mix to the horses, you just mixed it up till you liked the way it looked. It is nice to have the percentages for a guideline, but what I did is tump some sulfur powder in a small jar and a bit of pine oil, just a tiny bit, then poured in what looked like around 10% mineral oil and started mixing. Gotta mix and mix. That didn't look smooth enough so I put a bit more oil in. Mix, mix, mix, mix. There! That looks good. Like that. There we go, exact directions :p

PS - yes I know it's not human grade sulfur. But sulfur is an element. It is what it is. There are a few "inert ingredients" in it but we're talking putting it on a chicken. Not to worry.
 
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I put cedar shavings in the nest boxes recently and I'm going to be trimming the lavender back for the fall and will be putting those trimmings in the bottom of the nest boxes as well.  Neither of those are things I do with a normally healthy flock but this one came here with bad things in their luggage.  They don't have any more lice or mites now but I just want to make sure they won't like what they find if they try to go through customs again...  :D

Wonder if you would use pine and cedar shavings in your nest boxes instead of the hay if they would still live in there? 

 


I hope the cedar shavings will cut down on the mosquitoes hanging out around the hay. I know mosquitoes will not hang around citrus smells as I spray my deck and surrounding areas with lemon scented liquid dish soap and lemon scented ammonia mixed with water and put in a hose end sprayer about an hour before grilling or eating on the deck and hardly any mosquitoes come around. If I forget to spray, it sounds like take offs and landings on an aircraft carrier from the buzzing and mosquito fly overs.
 
Most of this is probably already in this thread, but just in case here is some reference material on Blu-Kote. Sources are mainly Wikipedia, Encyclopedia Britannica, and U.S. OSHA fact sheets.


Blu-Kote, manufactured by Dr. Naylor, is used as an aid in the treatment of surface wounds, cuts, galls, hoof, foot and pad sores, chafes, abrasions, moist lesions, and itchy fungal eczema. It is a germicidal, fungicidal wound dressing and healing aid, effective against both bacterial and fungal infections most common in skin lesions of domestic animals. Treat ringworm. Dries up pox-like lesions. Its active ingredients are 37.5% isopropyl alcohol, 9.1% urea, 9.1% sodium propionate, 1 % gentian violet, and 0.15% acriflavine.

Crystal or Gentian Violet is atriarylmethane dye used as a histological stain and in Gram’s method of classifying bacteria. It has antibacterial, antifungal, and anthelmintic properties and was formerly important as atopical antiseptic. The medical use of the dye has been largely superseded by more modern drugs, although it is still listed by the World Health Organization.

The name “gentian violet” was originally used for a mixture of methyl pararosaniline dyes (methyl violet) but is now often considered a synonym for crystal violet. The name refers to its colour, being like that of the petals of a gentian flower; it is not made from gentians or from violets. Uses:
• Marking the skin for surgery preparation and allergy testing
Tinea; e.g. Athlete’s foot, jock itch, and ringworm
Candida albicans and related infections; e.g. thrush, yeast infections
Mouth ulcers[11]
Impetigo, used primarily before the advent of antibiotics, but still useful to persons who may be allergic to penicillin, as it cleans the open sores and prevents spread of the contagion
Abrasion; It has also one of the best agents for “scabbing” up an abrasion or “strawberry” type of weeping wound where the flesh is abraded away. It will prevent infection in almost any wound or burn and quickly help the epithelium form a scab. It does not burn when applied and temporary skin discoloration is a minor side effect.



Sodium Propanoate is the sodium salt of propionic acid which has the chemical formulaNa(C2H5COO). It is used as a food preservative and is represented by the food labeling E number E281 in Europe; it is used primarily as a mold inhibitor in bakery products. It is approved for use as a food additive in the EU, USA and Australia and New Zealand.


Urea or Carbamide is an organic compound with the chemical formula CO(NH2)2. The molecule has two —NH2 groups joined by a carbonyl (C=O) functional group.

Urea serves an important role in the metabolism of nitrogen-containing compounds by animals and is the main nitrogen-containing substance in the urine of mammals. It is solid, colourless, and odorless (although the ammonia that it gives off in the presence of water, including water vapor in the air, has a strong odor). It is highly soluble in water and practically non-toxic (LD50 is 15 g/kg for rat). Dissolved in water, it is neither acidic nor alkaline. The body uses it in many processes, the most notable one being nitrogen excretion. Urea is widely used in fertilizers as a convenient source of nitrogen. Urea is also an important raw material for the chemical industry. The synthesis of this organic compound by Friedrich Wöhler in 1828 from an inorganic precursor was an important milestone in the development of organic chemistry, as it showed for the first time that a molecule found in living organisms could be synthesized in the lab without biological starting materials (thus contradicting a theory widely prevalent at one time, called vitalism).
Urea-containing creams are used as topical dermatological products to promote rehydration of the skin. Urea 40% is indicated for psoriasis, xerosis, onychomycosis, ichthyosis, eczema, keratosis, keratoderma, corns, and calluses. If covered by an occlusive dressing, 40% urea preparations may also be used for nonsurgical debridement of nails. Urea 40% “dissolves the intercellular matrix”[14] of the nail plate. Only diseased or dystrophic nails are removed, as there is no effect on healthy portions of the nail. This drug is also used as an earwax removal aid. Urea can also be used as a Diuretic.

Acriflavine is a dye obtained from coal tar, introduced as an antiseptic in 1912 by the German medical-research worker Paul Ehrlich and used extensively in World War I to kill the parasites that cause sleeping sickness. The hydrochloride and the less irritating base, neutral acriflavine, both are odourless, reddish-brown powders used in dilute aqueous solutions primarily as topical antiseptics or given orally as urinary antiseptics. Once used in the treatment of gonorrhea, acriflavine has been replaced by antibiotics.
 
More (probably repeated) info on Nu-Stock. Information from Nu-Stock website and Wikipedia.
As galanie noted, you probably want the wettable form of sulfur.


Nu-Stock is a topical treatment for a range of animal skin problems. Its ingredients are 73% sulfur, 25% mineral oil, and 2% pine oil.

Elemental sulfur is one of the oldest fungicides and pesticides. "Dusting sulfur," elemental sulfur in powdered form, is a common fungicide for grapes, strawberry, many vegetables and several other crops. It has a good efficacy against a wide range of powdery mildew diseases as well as black spot. In organic production, sulfur is the most important fungicide. It is the only fungicide used in organically farmed apple production against the main disease apple scab under colder conditions. Biosulfur (biologically produced elemental sulfur with hydrophilic characteristics) can be used well for these applications.
Standard-formulation dusting sulfur is applied to crops with a sulfur duster or from a dusting plane. Wettable sulfur is the commercial name for dusting sulfur formulated with additional ingredients to make it water miscible.[57][58] It has similar applications and is used as a fungicide against mildew and other mold-related problems with plants and soil.
Elemental sulfur powder is used as an "organic" (i.e. "green") insecticide (actually an acaricide) against ticks and mites. A common method of use is to dust clothing or limbs with sulfur powder.
Diluted solutions of lime sulfur (made by combinding calcium hydroxide with elemental sulfur in water), are used as a dip for pets to destroy ringworm (fungus), mange and other dermatoses and parasites. Sulfur candles consist of almost pure sulfur in blocks or pellets that are burned to fumigate structures. It is no longer used in the home due to the toxicity of the products of combustion.

Mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 range from a non-vegetable (mineral) source, particularly a distillate of petroleum.[1]
The name mineral oil by itself is imprecise, having been used to label many specific oils over the past few centuries. Other names, similarly imprecise, include white oil, liquid paraffin, and liquid petroleum.
Most often, mineral oil is a liquid by-product of the distillation of petroleum to produce gasoline and other petroleum-based products from crude oil. A mineral oil in this sense is a transparent, colorless oil composed mainly of alkanes [2]and cyclic paraffins, related to petroleum jelly (also known as "white petrolatum"). It has a density of around 0.8 g/cm3.[3] Mineral oil is a substance of relatively low value, and it is produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades, and can often be found in drug stores.

Certain mineral oils are used in livestock vaccines, as an adjuvant to stimulate a cell-mediated immune response to the vaccinating agent. In the poultry industry, plain mineral oil can also be swabbed onto the feet of chickens infected with scaly mites on the shank, toes, and webs. Mineral oil suffocates these tiny parasites. In beekeeping, food grade mineral oil saturated paper napkins placed in hives are used as a treatment for tracheal and other mites. It is also used along with a cotton swab to remove un-shed skin on reptiles such as lizards and snakes.

Pine oil is an essential oil obtained by the steam distillation of needles, twigs and cones from a variety of species of pine, particularly Pinus sylvestris.
It is used in aromatherapy, as a scent in bath oils, as a cleaning product, and as a lubricant in small and expensive clockworkinstruments. It is naturally deodorizing, and antibacterial. It may also be used varyingly as a disinfectant, massage oil and anantiseptic. It is also used as an effective organic herbicide where its action is to modify the waxy cuticle of plants resulting in desiccation.[2]
Pine oil is distinguished from other products from pine such as turpentine, the low-boiling fraction from the distillation of pine sap, androsin, the thick tar remaining after turpentine is distilled.

Pine oil is a phenolic disinfectant that is mildly antiseptic.[3] Pine oil disinfectants are relatively inexpensive and widely available. They are effective against Brevibacterium ammoniagenes, the fungus Candida albicans, Enterobacter aerogenes, Escherichia coli,gram-negative enteric bacteria, household germs, gram-negative household germs such as those causing salmonellosis, herpes simplex types 1 and 2, influenza type A, influenza virus type A/Brazil, influenza virus type A2/Japan, intestinal bacteria, Klebsiella pneumoniae, odor-causing bacteria, mold, mildew, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella choleraesuis, Salmonella typhi, Salmonella typhosa, Serratia marcescens, Shigella sonnei, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus faecalis, Streptococcus pyogenes, Trichophyton mentagrophytes.[4]
It will kill the causative agents of typhoid, gastroenteritis (some agents), rabies, enteric fever, cholera, several forms of meningitis, whooping cough, gonorrhea and several types of dysentery.[5] It is also effective against several of the leading causes of food poisoning.[citation needed] It is not effective against spore related illneses such as tetanus oranthrax or against non-enveloped viruses such as poliovirus, rhinovirus, hepatitis B or hepatitis C.[5]
Pine oil has a relatively low human toxicity level, a low corrosion level and limited persistence; however, it irritates the skin and mucous membranes and has been known to cause breathing problems.[3] Large doses may cause central nervous system depression.[1]
 
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It sounds lovely! I'm assuming you are speaking of the soils in your run area, so I'm thinking that, even with that good filtration going on, this is something I'd watch when wanting to avoid overloading the soils with nitrogen. I'm not familiar with the climate of Texas and can't speak knowledgeably on how the soils disperse or bind to nitrogen but I'd be careful of overloading the soils of any confined penning space.

I would think that only time would tell on that one...no smell is good and a dry footing underneath is also good. How has it worked for you so far...all chickens in excellent health?
The climate here is hotter than three hells with a lid on it. Very humid & dry. The health of my chickens is good they peck each others vents but this behaviour was taught to them from an old roo that I finally shot in the head with my 22 because he kept trying to attack me. I got another roo & hatched more & now have 3 roos & 45 hens . I'm getting on the wagon I bought some nu-stock & I'm gonna see if this works on the girls vent issue. I'm also gonna try the fermenting of the mash. But how exactly do you mix it. I bought lay crumbles & hen scratch. I have ACV with the mother but I think there's another ingrediant I'm missing ? Could you tell me how to mixs this congotion & how long before I serve it. You talked about hanging the FF whatever that means in the hoop house. Here's my hoop house I guess, I call it the mash house see below. I have three coops all together . The mash unit houses 15 girls & two boys its 360 sq ft. The other coops I have are big as well with about the same number of birds give or take a few birds. Another coop is in the back ground.
 
I have a question ? I live where the soil is just like going to the beach its sand. When it rains it never puddles the rain is filtered immediately. It seems like the ultimate environment to raise birds.It rains & everything is cleansed by the rain. Also, their poop drys out very fast. I do clean it but how often is this really necessary? I'm not trying to get away from cleaning it it just seems unnecessary.
My coop has a sandy dirt floor too. I have never had to clean it out. All I do is all some more litter occasionally (every week or ten days), as the litter decomposes and disappears into the dirt. the sand is great, as it absorbs any moisture, and I never have to worry about it being wet, even when something gets spilled.
 
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