The Wyandotte Thread

Thanks for the tips! I guess I'll just wait it out and see what happens. Also, as they are starting to get older, everyone is still getting along fine. There is a clear established pecking order that even the newest of chicken keepers could notice. I have 3 hens, and 1 rooster as you can see in the above pic. I know that ratio is a little off compared to what most people suggest. Should I be proactive and desperate him now, or should I just let them all keep staying together sense they are all getting along? I do know for sure tho, that my hen on the bottom of the pecking order would have to stay with the roo, sense she never leaves his side. The other 2 girls couldn't care less about him, and the top hen actually challenges him at times haha.
 
Ok, curious
I have sold my wyandottes to a couple folks with a pair of golden laced.
Mine were silver laced and blue laced red.
The plan is to get fertile eggs from this small group of birds and hatch them.
All girls under the golden laced roo

Is there any colorations we should expect?? From this cross??
I understand the goldens will be pure. Are Wyandotte easily sexed at hatching??
 
Ok, curious
I have sold my wyandottes to a couple folks with a pair of golden laced.
Mine were silver laced and blue laced red.
The plan is to get fertile eggs from this small group of birds and hatch them.
All girls under the golden laced roo

Is there any colorations we should expect?? From this cross??
I understand the goldens will be pure. Are Wyandotte easily sexed at hatching??
I can answer on the GLW x BLRW cross: as long as all breeders have two copies (homogeneous) for all three genes needed for the lacing, they will all be laced. If the BLRW has the gold gene (it will show as "brassiness" or a more orange-copper instead of deep red) then the offspring will be 3 gold: 1 brassy red. If the BLRW does not have the gold gene, they will all be brassy red, which is actually the gold gene and red gene both showing. If the BLRW is black laced, then all offspring will be lack laced. If blue laced, then half will be black laced and half blue laced. If the BLRW is splash, then all will be blue laced.

As for the gold x silver, I can't remember whether it's that or the opposite (silver x gold) that makes sex-link Wyandottes ... hopefully someone with a better memory than I will clarify that. Same rules for lacing apply on the gold x silver cross as above, I am just not sure what the inner color will be.
 
I can answer on the GLW x BLRW cross: as long as all breeders have two copies (homogeneous) for all three genes needed for the lacing, they will all be laced.  If the BLRW has the gold gene (it will show as "brassiness" or a more orange-copper instead of deep red) then the offspring will be 3 gold: 1 brassy red.  If the BLRW does not have the gold gene, they will all be brassy red, which is actually the gold gene and red gene both showing.  If the BLRW is black laced, then all offspring will be lack laced.  If blue laced, then half will be black laced and half blue laced.  If the BLRW is splash, then all will be blue laced.

As for the gold x silver, I can't remember whether it's that or the opposite (silver x gold) that makes sex-link Wyandottes ... hopefully someone with a better memory than I will clarify that.  Same rules for lacing apply on the gold x silver cross as above, I am just not sure what the inner color will be.


Thanks for your answer
I sent you a message if you needed to see the birds. (I cannot load the pics here for some reason)
 
Hello again everybody. I have another newbie question. The temp outside is really starting to drop her in ky. I have attached a pic of my chickens coop, as well as the heat lamp I have put in there for them. Current temps are in the low 30's at times. The coop is actually just 1/4 of my shed I have in the backyard. I'm sure there are drafts at times. During the day, I open the sliding door I made, and they free range in my yard as much as they like. Temps are in the 50s or 40s while the sun is up, and they seem to be fine with that. However, they will go to roost on top of the fence outside if I don't go put them up before sundown. After they are already asleep, temps could drop below freezing. Is this ok, or should I insist the go in at night? Also is the heat lamp and coop enough for them when they are put up? I use hay as bedding. (Sorry just noticed the heat lamp isn't viable in this pic. It is located right outside of the in closure .
400
 
We get quite a lot colder than you here, I never use a heat lamp for fully feathered chickens, and using one in my opinion doesn't allow them to acclimate properly. I would make sure there are no drafts on the roosts and I would change out your branches for 2x4 roosts with the 2 up, and lower your nestboxes. I would also make sure your birds go in at night to keep them safe from predators.
 
We get quite a lot colder than you here, I never use a heat lamp for fully feathered chickens, and using one in my opinion doesn't allow them to acclimate properly. I would make sure there are no drafts on the roosts and I would change out your branches for 2x4 roosts with the 2 up, and lower your nestboxes. I would also make sure your birds go in at night to keep them safe from predators.
I used to make sure they were in every night. And I used to have a top on their run. But they seem to be happier free ranging and doing what they want. I leave my dog outside with them when I'm now home, and that has worked so far. Just curious, what would be the advantage of using 2x4s instead of the branches?
 
I used to make sure they were in every night. And I used to have a top on their run. But they seem to be happier free ranging and doing what they want. I leave my dog outside with them when I'm now home, and that has worked so far. Just curious, what would be the advantage of using 2x4s instead of the branches?
It seems to be more comfortable to roost on, mine have always choose 2x4 over any branch roosts, and the flat side makes it easier for them to cover their feet in cold weather, and to sit closer because it's level, others say to put the 4 side up for cold weather but mine refuse to roost on them.

Everyone finds what works best for them, so if it's working and your happy than it's fine.
 
the mutations involved in blrw are blue (and black/splash happen too), mahogany, and lacing (made up of the pattern, melanizing and Columbian genes.)

it's not an easy and instant combination. you would spend generations getting the right color and pattern. and even longer perfecting the type, IMO.

you're better off starting with good stock from a reputable breeder. their breeder birds should NOT have an orangey or brassy color to them, the red should be a nice even deep mahogany shade (splash birds tend to be a bit lighter but still not orange). and you want the lacing to be a nice even thin edge that goes all the way around each feather. wide edges mean the bird may not breed true 100% of the time for *good* lacing.

the correct pattern is the one at the bottom right.



no, you do NOT want to use gold laced. otherwise you'll lose all the hard work that went into getting the mahogany nice and dark. IMO gold laced have a dilution involved to make the normal orange/red much lighter, more like a golden buff.

here's my trio... each has minor issues to be worked out, IMO, but I seriously doubt you'd find a perfect bird anywhere.
left is my black laced foley girl, middle my blue laced roo (foley x Canadian lines), right my splash laced girl (Canadian "import" of sorts).

IMO, my foley girl's biggest issue is her tail (too cochin-ish), the roo his comb and pale yellow legs and my splash girl... well there isn't much I don't like about her. LOL

Interesting... very nice birds......love your splash girl too......
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