These babies should be easier to identify

[Mimi13]

You could also build or buy a little bachelor coop as long as the roosters all get a long and rotate who’s with the hens depending on who you want breeding.

This is an excellent idea.

 

[KikiLeigh02]

You could also build or buy a little bachelor coop as long as the roosters all get a long and rotate who’s with the hens depending on who you want breeding.

Do the hens deal with that pretty well? I have 3 little roosters I am super attached to.

 

[Mimi13]

Do the hens deal with that pretty well? I have 3 little roosters I am super attached to.

That is an excellent question and I wonder that too.

 

[Mimi13]

I read in another thread where hand raised roosters can become little demons. @EggSighted4Life, why is this and how should I treat my four little roos? I want to love on them just like my little pullets. Also, at a mere 4 weeks, I have noticed the roos already sparring. I guess this is just part of the “male pecking order,” figuring out which one will be the head roo; like the hens and their pecking order, I suppose.

 

[Frazzemrat1]

when it comes to raising roosters, keep the wise words of @Beekissed in mind:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/beekisseds-rooster-speak.73664/

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

 

[Mimi13]

when it comes to raising roosters, keep the wise words of @Beekissed in mind:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/beekisseds-rooster-speak.73664/

I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.

Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.

If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.

Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.

When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.

Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.

When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.

Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.

THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.

If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.

It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.

Oh my, this is just what I needed to read. I will begin with my changed ways today. I thank you ten fold!

 

[EggSighted4Life]

I read in another thread where hand raised roosters can become little demons. @EggSighted4Life, why is this and how should I treat my four little roos? I want to love on them just like my little pullets. Also, at a mere 4 weeks, I have noticed the roos already sparring. I guess this is just part of the “male pecking order,” figuring out which one will be the head roo; like the hens and their pecking order, I suppose.

Hand raised (lap) boys end up knowing they don't have to fear you. And in the chicken world fear equals respect. Once hormones kick in they take advantage of the "trust" we thought we were building... because they KNOW we aren't a threat.

I still handle boys at MY will... they do not sit on my lap anymore, and I haven't had another demon spawn yet.

Sometimes that beekissed post is irrelevant... it was too late in my case... and chasing just escalated the situation.

I don't worry about boys crowing or try to make them stop. I just maintain a solid course of action... doing my normal stuff... allowing boys to forage even near by... as long as it is a normal behavior.

Of course SOME people do have lap roosters... but it won't ever be my goal again, now that I know the possible outcome is having to eat your very favorite boy.

Because people mistake confidence for friendliness.

 

[Mimi13]

Hand raised (lap) boys end up knowing they don't have to fear you. And in the chicken world fear equals respect. Once hormones kick in they take advantage of the "trust" we thought we were building... because they KNOW we aren't a threat.

I still handle boys at MY will... they do not sit on my lap anymore, and I haven't had another demon spawn yet.

Sometimes that beekissed post is irrelevant... it was too late in my case... and chasing just escalated the situation.

I don't worry about boys crowing or try to make them stop. I just maintain a solid course of action... doing my normal stuff... allowing boys to forage even near by... as long as it is a normal behavior.

Of course SOME people do have lap roosters... but it won't ever be my goal again, now that I know the possible outcome is having to eat your very favorite boy.

Because people mistake confidence for friendliness.

Yes, I can envision this already and I must become proactive immediately. Thank you so much!

 

[cmom]

When I have had a bad boy I do pick him up and hold his head down to his chest. If he resists I hold it until he relaxes and after a few moments if he is bad again we repeat the process until he gives in. I don't use an object because he will associate with the object (stick or broom etc). If he still persists then off to freezer camp or the auction.

 

[cmom]

I hatch out a couple of hundred chicks each year more or less. I do have coops that I use as breeding coops and later as bachelor coops. As long as there are no females they are ok. One thing is if I take a male out of a bachelor coop I can't usually put him back because the other males will pick on him. I had a place where I cold take my extra males to sell them. Not very long ago I took 100 males over to sell. They have since closed.