They die at day 18 everytime!

[walkswithdog]

If they're alive at 18 days - the yolk is unabsorbed. If they're dead because the humidity is too high or the ventilation to low - at day 19, then no they never absorb the yolk.

And that tells you they're dying right at or around the 18/19th day. When you are sealing up the bator.

It wouldn't be the case if SOME were fully developed and absorbed.

How many thermometers are you using? If 99.5 and 100 +/- are your temps for a still air - you're running too cold.

If it's circulated I'd double check your thermometers and thermostat.

Usually a bator that runs cool will have chicks at staggered levels that fail to hatch, hatch late or hatch with defects. But they usually have significant variances in progress. Unpipped, pipped no zip, zip not hatch, hatch and die, hatch and defects in some or all that hatch.

If all the chicks are all stalled at the same point. It's one thing - either humidity or ventilation that's killing them all at the same point of hatch.

Make sense?

 

[DANNY]

It' nice to hear things that make sense. The thing is my problems were temperature the whole time. Keep in mind i know every situation is different. I don't think mine were all dying. it was more like you described a few hatching scattered and late.

 

[walkswithdog]

Danny - what are you using for thermometer - hygrometer, what bator and what thermostat?

 

[DANNY]

I am using the gqg 1502 w/ electronic thermostat with one of the $50 therm/ hygro. i just had to adjust to the variables like location where i am reading temperature and inaccuracies in the thermo/hygro. Right now i am reading 50% humidity and 102.4 degrees and hatching over 90 % of fertile eggs on time. Go figure.

 

[PulletSurprise]

Quote:
I have to agree with you. My temps have and always have been 100 degrees and my humidity between 30%-40% I can't seem to get the LG to go to 102. I have a thermo/hygrometer combo in the LG. I actually have 2 of them and they both read the same. I had been thinking about the ventilation, thats why I was trying to throw air via the fan on to them, but I guess thats not cutting it. I'm going to look for the "how to check your thermo/hygrometer" thread and give that a shot with mine. Thanks for the all the great information/advice!

 

[Wynette]

This thread is a good one, and brings to mind something I've heard and have wanted to try, but have been scared to. I've spoken with a few folks who do not increase humidity UNTIL the first pip, the thought being that too much humidity at day 18/19 can cause death by drowning. What are folks thoughts on not upping humidity until a pip is seen?

 

[Dirt Road]

Quote:
The yolk is absorbed just before or right after pipping. It's basically the last step before actually hatching. One theory is, it's the physical struggle of both internal and external pipping that causes the yolk to begin absorbing. If the egg/chick is too wet it is difficult or impossible for them to absorb the yolk properly. A good read on the subject is "Parrot Incubation Procedures" by Rick Jordan. While the book was written primarily for parrot incubation, the principles are much the same. IMHO the best recently published book on the subject, although it is several years old now. It's a bit spendy but not too bad if you shop around. Humidity levels are basically a function of ventilation. While they would eventually smother in a completely sealed incubator, they will live an amazingly long time on an incubator full of air.

Jim

 

[walkswithdog]

Unlike some people I never got comfortable with my LG. I'm not as patient and I think they may also vary in quality even in the same models.

I went to homemade because I couldn't afford another at the time. I liked the homemade better and I've since gone through making and tweeking three models with recycled parts. I could just kiss this third one - it's made from a mini-fridge, I'd like a better thermostat but I've got the water heater one keeping it between 99.5 and 100.4.

Ventilation is a huge thing. I like circulated hatching over still air. Tried both, settled on the later. I've carton hatched and side hatched. Always hand turned. I've done both normal humidity and dry hatches and had good success with both. I've ended up with sticking with hatching in the 70% range with this bator.

The ventilation thread is important reading. Humidity has importance in keeping those membranes soft and the shell pliable but not breathing is really a bigger issue first.

Good luck.

 

[The Farmers Wife]

Quote:
I agree..... sounds like your humidity is too high from days 1-18.... the chicks are most likely being met with water from condensation rather than air when they pip the air cell~

 

[Wynette]

No one has feedback on post #16? I'm REALLY curious about this....