Things to Know About Broodies?

[3KillerBs]

I have a hen gone broody and am unsure whether to break her once I'm sure that the weather is suited for the "dunk in cold water" method (see this thread here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/get-out-of-that-nestbox.1459443/ ), because I have no ability to create a broody jail until after the new coop is finished. I could get a wire dog crate, but I can't shelter it because a hailstorm took out the picnic pavilion that covered part of the run.

I'm also not in the optimal position to give her eggs, since I'm already keeping 5 in a coop intended for 4 (with the giant, open-air chicken palace in progress: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/ ).

IF I decide to give her eggs (I have a friend with a rooster), I need to know some things.

1. She's a 10-month-old Welp Blue Australorp, nice-sized but not as big as the Brahma. I don't know how many eggs an average broody can cover and what factors would contribute to that.

2. I can't remove her from the coop, though I *might* be able to remove the others before the eggs hatch depending on the weather and how fast DH can work finishing the new coop. So she'd be sitting there in the favored nest box (somebody managed to lay an egg in there today). I know I'd have to mark the hatching eggs and switch to All-Flock feed, but what else would I need to know?

3. I don't know what else I don't know that I ought to know. I had a surprise hatch from a broody in my in-town flock, who managed to hide an egg despite me taking them away but have never planned a hatch.

If she'd have waited until the end of May I would have been easily able to give her an appropriate space or to break her with a new broody jail, but, since chickens don't consult humans about their natural instincts, she's broody NOE -- so I have to figure out the best of a situation with no optimal answers.

Advice, please?

 

[Northwest_Wannabe]

1. I imagine she can cover a fair amount of eggs, I've seen OEGB's cover well over 10 eggs (and keep them rotated and warm!)

2. You can always wait. Chances are if not broken she may continue being broody until A. chicks arrive or B. someone beats her up enough she breaks herself (which if shes high on the pecking order, may not happen) C. she may get bored, I've had this happen only once though. You could wait and set the eggs closer to a date that'll work for moving the other birds, unless you wanted to set up an area for her somewhere safe like in a garage.

3. I'd throw away the other eggs when you give her the hatching eggs (no need to mark them, you'll clearly see the development in the fertile ones compared to any she might lay after you replace the fertile ones. It's been a hot minute since we've let a broody have chicks, so hopefully someone else can comment here but I think for the first few weeks you feed momma and babies chick starter? I can't quite remember ^^"

 

[BDutch]

If you don’t have enough space for a broody, you dont have enough space for chicks either. Be sure you have enough possibilities to make changes if needed if the broody needs a more tranquil pace.

If the broody isn’t agressive to the other chickens the other hens keep laying in the nest. And this disturbs a tranquil sit. The same can occur if you have another hen getting broody and wanting to share or take over the nest. If the eggs roll a lot the embryos might not develop very well. (Had this problem and even poop on a few eggs . I have 2 broodies and separated these 2 from the flock, now its tranquil to sit).

Yes, chicks need starter. If the flock and the broody with chicks are in one coop & run, you need to give them all chick feed.

You don’t have to give the maximum eggs. I have only 5 eggs under each broody. The eggs are bigger than their own (other bigger breed). And they where marked to avoid sitting on unfertilised eggs that are good to eat.

Its probably better to wait until you’re new coop is ready if I grasp you’re situation correctly. If I want a broody to quit, I take away all eggs asap , close the nesting box aginst sun set or put her on the roost when it’s dark. Broodiness is over within 3-4 days with my chickens. Only some breeds/individuals are more difficult.

 

[3KillerBs]

I'd throw away the other eggs when you give her the hatching eggs (no need to mark them, you'll clearly see the development in the fertile ones compared to any she might lay after you replace the fertile ones.

I have no rooster. She's sitting on golf balls.

If I want a broody to quit, I take away all eggs asap , close the nesting box aginst sun set or put her on the roost when it’s dark. Broodiness is over within 3-4 days with my chickens. Only some breeds/individuals are more difficult.

I suppose I could take the golf balls away, but I have been booting her out of the nest and putting her up on the roost. Unfortunately, I'm working extra hours this week and won't have time for more than feed, water, and egg collection.

 

[3KillerBs]

DH reminded me that we'd bought a $10 homemade dog pen that needed some work and might be able to make a pen for her -- though I don't know if he meant to break her or to let her raise chicks.

 

[marsmallowthesilkie]

Well, you can just separate her for a while to break her

 

[Chicalina]

Mine quit after a few days of chucking them out of the nest box, maybe even closing off the nest box and collecting eggs laid on the coop floor if they are persistent.

It's never a good idea to hatch chicks just because a hen is broody. You need to WANT chicks. Whether to sell, increase your flock or whatever. And then there is the rooster problem that creates.

I feed my broodies and chicks with chick starter including anti-coccidiostat medication. If the laying hens ate that then I'd need to chuck their eggs. So I separate my broodies/chicks for the first fee weeks until the chicks can eat pellets and are nicely immune to coccidiosis

 

[aart]

I feed my broodies and chicks with chick starter including anti-coccidiostat medication. If the laying hens ate that then I'd need to chuck their eggs.

What chemical/medication is this?

 

[Chicalina]

What chemical/medication is this?

I think you've asked me this before a while ago. Anyway, I googled it again and it was hard to find the ingredients but here they are. Having looked at this I think it's a supplement that discourages cocciodiosis rather than an ingestible vaccination as such. You probably know more than me.

I was sure I'd read you have to not eat the eggs though. I probably posted about this last year. Memory like a sieve.

 

[Yardmom]

Did you give her eggs? Your plan to switch to all flock would also work as long as it is crumbles so young birds can eat it. Purina flock raiser is what I use in the chick area. You could start with the starter since it sounds like you may have separated her.