Dark green is a good sign of adequate nitrogen.
Usually my tomatoes have blossom end rot on the first few tomatoes and then they straighten up on their own without me doing anything special, except this year because I put on too much nitrogen just to see what I could get away with. Large plants with little fruit doesn't work too good so there is a balance. I fertilize through a dripline, inorganically, but I also use compost, manure, and/or blood meal early in the year. Therefore I think too little nitrogen may cause blossom end rot too.
Do you know your soils pH?
I put 10.4 oz of soil and 1.25 cups of distilled water in a quart mason jar and invert several times (don't shake, that raises pH) and let it settle for several days. Then I'll withdraw the clear liquid and test with a pool pH tester (phenol red) or use bromothymol blue to get my pH level.
Also don't disturb the soil and meaure the soil layers to figure out your soil type. Don't use the soap if you are doing the pH test. I've noticed it doesn't really help any anyways.
Usually my tomatoes have blossom end rot on the first few tomatoes and then they straighten up on their own without me doing anything special, except this year because I put on too much nitrogen just to see what I could get away with. Large plants with little fruit doesn't work too good so there is a balance. I fertilize through a dripline, inorganically, but I also use compost, manure, and/or blood meal early in the year. Therefore I think too little nitrogen may cause blossom end rot too.
Do you know your soils pH?
I put 10.4 oz of soil and 1.25 cups of distilled water in a quart mason jar and invert several times (don't shake, that raises pH) and let it settle for several days. Then I'll withdraw the clear liquid and test with a pool pH tester (phenol red) or use bromothymol blue to get my pH level.
Also don't disturb the soil and meaure the soil layers to figure out your soil type. Don't use the soap if you are doing the pH test. I've noticed it doesn't really help any anyways.
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