Tractor Supply Co. Chicken Coop Reviews Thoughts Feedback - Why and Why Not ?

[JacinLarkwell]

Here are my 2 prefab coops (getting a 2nd of the 2nd one soon)

The grey/purple one was roughly 350-400 and bought 3 years ago. It works fine for my purposes, but the first winter it lost the back window, part of the side window and one of the ledges on the ramp. But it fits my 5 bantams just fine, even inside, especially since 2 are brooding currently in the boxes and my Japanese since the beginning has rooster up at the roof (2nd picture down) instead of the bars. The boxes are the perfect size for bantam pancakes too. I have had to restaple the wire multiple times over the years though.

The second coop is the setinal coop boughtbfor 350, but it raised to 380, and is framed with wire instead of wood. Far, far less ventilation (I never close the coop door, but you would need to add some windows if you did). I keep a pair of American Bresse and an Orpington female in there. I had to take the ramp out because they were constantly knocking It off and I didn't want to have someone hurt (I think they actually go up and down more than with the ramp inside too). This nestbox is detached, and I may take a divider out later when they start regularly laying. We also had to completely refigure the pen door because we put it on the wrong side (there are two house doors, but only one pen door)

And for kicks, our self built coop that probably was around 500? This was almost 12 years ago though, before plywood got so high.

For the record, the self built coop would be measured in feet, and the prefab were both measured in inches. I think the grey is roughly 6.5 feet and the setinal was roughly 6 feet?

 

[wolfinator]

We have this TSC coop. We bought it prior to knowing anything about chickens and their coop needs, but we are making it work for our 4 hens for now.

I will say, it is very sturdy compared to the other prefab coops I’ve seen. The “200% thicker wood panels” do seem to make a difference. It has the same drawbacks as many prefabs—way too small for the number of chickens they advertise, not the best ventilation, roosts practically on the floor of the coop, etc. I have some modifications planned for the future to expand both the coop space and the run, but for now, we try to give our girls time to free range supervised (we have an unfenced yard that backs up to woods and lots of predators!).

The run is 4’x6’ and the outside roost is 4’ long. There’s a small door on the right side that I am thinking of removing to connect to another larger run.
View attachment 2802746

Here’s the interior. It’s about 4’x3’ including the nesting boxes. I’m thinking of either expanding down or out to the left (it would be easy to remove the egg access door and build out the nesting boxes that way). I’m thinking of possibly doing a double roost attached to the right wall. For ventilation, there’s about a 1” gap all along the roof line and that tiny window in the back. So far I’ve noticed no moisture or ammonia smell, but we haven’t entered rainy season yet. I plan to cut more ventilation along the top of the right wall. And see if I can rig something on the front window that is currently paned with plastic.
View attachment 2802756

Often the stated number of chickens a prefab coop can hold is for bantams or smaller breeds.

I bought a much larger prefab coop from TSC "meant" for 20-25 chickens, I had 23 juvenile standard breeds but built a large run around coop. It started falling apart after 6 months. It started with the nesting box roofing material allowing water to seep under to the roof boards (very thin material like luan fastened between 1/4" thick boards) which fell apart the fastest. The poop draw was next,, it rusted through and was removed about a year later. Eventually we removed the external nesting boxes, sided the openings and area under roosting bars with scrap pieces of T-111 siding, added a floor plus new bottom boards (original were rotting from ground contact), raised it off the ground using cinder blocks. Now I need to replace the roof as it's falling apart, it's getting a metal roof this time.

New in 2017...

After modifications...

We also added high up nesting boxes inside and walking planks near the top. I enclose it with plastic for winter (we get -20 at times). The back side has a fenced area attached and the coop is now used for introducing juveniles safely to the flock. I just intermixed 17 with the flock but for now they return to this coop at dusk.

I have a large custom built coop for the majority of our chickens, it's 10x12 with a 6x10 storage/nursery area. We used scrap and recycled materials (siding, doors, window, floor and metal roof) from construction sites (friends helped). The frame, screws and nails were bought new. Even the nesting boxes are upcycled cat litter buckets, roosting bars were porch rails (removed every 3rd slat) and a small wooden platform was made into a half wall to divide nesting area from main floor.

This is our main coop (winter 2020)

Another view of coops with garden in foreground last summer.

 

[jspeese]

I've seen this coop at our local tractor supply and it does look better than most. If it wasn't elevated, I think it would work great for a mother hen and chicks (I highly doubt that very young chicks could ever figure out that ladder), or perhaps as a bachelor pad for a couple of roosters. I let my flock of 14 out to forage occasionally, but have to be careful because there are so d*** many hawks around. Why the worthless things are protected, I'll never know.

 

[Tashua]

I helped a friend before I had chickens ( research stage) build a TSC coop , 2 girls one hour and done ! She got 6 standard size chickens and it was way too small for them to “stay” in , as a home base & free range ability at will it worked (mostly) . A year gone by and the door wouldn’t shut , the sides were caving , basically rotting from the Florida sun & rain. My friend is now on her second TSC coop and built a larger run & is down to 5 gals . Seems to work for her situation, will see how long
This one lasts ………
We built our own larger coop out of mostly leftover wood & tin etc that we had accumulated and/or from having a Mobil home demo’ed . Plus hubby is a carpenter by trade so he knew how to plan & “measure twice,cut once “
Very happy with the design ! He watched UTube vids & stole some ideas from others , in the end our 10 girls are very happy !!

 

[JacinLarkwell]

I would definately say if public anywhere with a lot if rain or snow, to get the metal framed ones. Less wood to rot out

 

[jspeese]

I suspect that a lot of these prefab coops are made in China, and that right there is a good enough reason not to buy one!

 

[BDutch]

plastic isn't adjustable but add ins can be made. It’s a 7X7 coop so not many changes could be made. I have cut in a Hentronix pop door in both of mine.

I have a 10X18 plastic shed I use for my flock of NJG. It’s in its second year and has not shown any deteriorating.

treated lumber is no better for the environment than a plastic shed that can be 100% recycled when it’s taken down.

I paid $1600 for my 10X18 and a family member just paid $4200 for a similar sized wood shed.

I used a natural preservative for my wooden coop: fungi with linseed oil . This helps grat against deteriorating. (Trade mark in the Netherlands is Xhylo) . And if you could use quality wood like oak, you don’t need preservatives at all , if you make a roof with a large overhang.
It can last centuries as long as the roof is good and the wood structure is made above the ground.