Tractor/trailer coop build

[BayBuzzard]

Hello BYC fam

I am building a coop, all welcome to join in. All comments encouraged here in trailer town. We want to be able to move 6 or 7 chickens around the property, and have this trailer ready to go.

Ideally, I build this thing in the garage, one wall at a time. Once I am sure everything fits together, and fits in the trailer, I will bolt the four walls to the floor. Hardware cloth will line the entire bottom of the coop.

here are some rudimentary sketches.
84" x 56" x 96", slanted roof 7-8feet

Front will be the door side, back will be the plain no window side(north facing)

Back

Side one, is the front south facing side with 2 windows

Side two, exterior nest boxes only on this side

These sketches are pretty ruff, but they give you an idea of what i am planning. KISS will hopefully rule the day, but we all know about 'best laid plans'.

I have laid out the north facing "back" wall, on the floor. Looks ok.

VENTILATION: initial plan subject to adjustment, like everything else
Side 1 and side 2 are 7' long. If a gap is left up top about 6-8" wide, the length of both sides, I will get:
7 SQFT AIR

OVERHANGS: on all 4 sides.
longs sides with vents get 18" overhang
short front and back get 8" overhang(no vents)

here is the back, is 7 to 8 feet too steep for 57" wide hut?

Going to shop for some more wood. Stay frosty out there

 

[saysfaa]

... is 7 to 8 feet too steep for 57" wide hut?

It is not too steep. It is more likely not steep enough. It is a little less than 1:6. That is considered a flat roof (anything less than 2:12 is). A low slope is between 2:12 and 4:12.

You could do a flat roof but they have enough disadvantages that you may want to rethink that.

I like your trailer!

 

[BayBuzzard]

It is not too steep. It is more likely not steep enough. It is a little less than 1:6. That is considered a flat roof (anything less than 2:12 is). A low slope is between 2:12 and 4:12.

You could do a flat roof but they have enough disadvantages that you may want to rethink that.

I like your trailer!

great stuff @saysfaa. i am going back and forth on the roof. The way i have it designed, it's like a big sail.

 

[aart]

These sketches are pretty ruff, but they give you an idea of what i am planning. KISS will hopefully rule the day, but we all know about 'best laid plans'.

It's good to sketch things out before building, but I strongly encourage you to get some graph paper and draw to scale....it can help avoid some serious errors.

 

[saysfaa]

.. i am going back and forth on the roof. The way i have it designed, it's like a big sail.

I don't know about wind. I was thinking leaks and snow load if you get snow.

But a lot of deer blinds are put on trailers, a search for how they do roofs or handle wind lift may help.

 

[3KillerBs]

I'm concerned about the ventilation.

Traditional windows appeal to human ideas of aesthetics, but what you really need is big wire vents up at the top and bottom of the roof slope, even including the gable triangles -- protected by generous roof overhangs. One square foot of 24/7/365 ventilation per adult, standard-sized hen.

If you do go with traditional windows, you want the top-hinged kind that are their own awnings.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

It is not too steep. It is more likely not steep enough. It is a little less than 1:6. That is considered a flat roof (anything less than 2:12 is). A low slope is between 2:12 and 4:12.

You could do a flat roof but they have enough disadvantages that you may want to rethink that.

I like your trailer!

Echoing this - the *minimum* slope from any roofing mfg I am aware of for shingle or metal roofing is 3:12. GAF says you can go less, using specialized materials, including an elastomeric self-stick underlayment and the like (which adds expense). Otherwise, its basically hot mopping asphalt and throwing a bunch of granulated stone at it like a modified bitumen flat roof design like you see on commercial buildings. For cost and effort, I'd come up to 3:12 and metal roof it.

 

[3KillerBs]

For cost and effort, I'd come up to 3:12 and metal roof it.

Metal roofing is so easy to work with too.

Self-tapping screws (size as per the roofing manufacturer's recommendation), and a DeWalt cordless impact driver made it simple even for me -- a 5'3" woman with small hands and arthritis in my wrists.

I also have electric metal shears for cutting both roofing and hardware cloth: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-ga...-61737.html?_br_psugg_q=electric+metal+shears

 

[BayBuzzard]

It's good to sketch things out before building, but I strongly encourage you to get some graph paper and draw to scale....it can help avoid some serious errors.

Thank you for that advice. Better half brought some home from work yesterday, they have a “free stuff” closet!

 

[BayBuzzard]

Metal roofing is so easy to work with too.

Self-tapping screws (size as per the roofing manufacturer's recommendation), and a DeWalt cordless impact driver made it simple even for me -- a 5'3" woman with small hands and arthritis in my wrists.

I also have electric metal shears for cutting both roofing and hardware cloth: https://www.harborfreight.com/18-ga...-61737.html?_br_psugg_q=electric+metal+shears

Awesome stuff. Yes, I plan to do a galvi corrugated roof. Still concerned with sail issue, but it may be ok. Definitely taking suggestions, and listening to others experiences.