Tractor/trailer coop build

[BayBuzzard]

Hello BYC fam

I am building a coop, all welcome to join in. All comments encouraged here in trailer town. We want to be able to move 6 or 7 chickens around the property, and have this trailer ready to go.

Ideally, I build this thing in the garage, one wall at a time. Once I am sure everything fits together, and fits in the trailer, I will bolt the four walls to the floor. Hardware cloth will line the entire bottom of the coop.

here are some rudimentary sketches.
84" x 56" x 96", slanted roof 7-8feet

Front will be the door side, back will be the plain no window side(north facing)

Back

Side one, is the front south facing side with 2 windows

Side two, exterior nest boxes only on this side

These sketches are pretty ruff, but they give you an idea of what i am planning. KISS will hopefully rule the day, but we all know about 'best laid plans'.

I have laid out the north facing "back" wall, on the floor. Looks ok.

VENTILATION: initial plan subject to adjustment, like everything else
Side 1 and side 2 are 7' long. If a gap is left up top about 6-8" wide, the length of both sides, I will get:
7 SQFT AIR

OVERHANGS: on all 4 sides.
longs sides with vents get 18" overhang
short front and back get 8" overhang(no vents)

here is the back, is 7 to 8 feet too steep for 57" wide hut?

Going to shop for some more wood. Stay frosty out there

 

[BayBuzzard]

A lil’ beat up from wrestling the big sides up there. Thanks for checking in.

 

[aart]

These sketches are pretty ruff, but they give you an idea of what i am planning. KISS will hopefully rule the day, but we all know about 'best laid plans'.

It's good to sketch things out before building, but I strongly encourage you to get some graph paper and draw to scale....it can help avoid some serious errors.

 

[BayBuzzard]

Consider some "cheap" cut to length vinyl flooring. It's designed to be heavy duty enough to accept repeated foot traffic, is easy and cheap to replace, and will hold up to scraping poop off of it, even when it's a little frozen. Added bonus is you can also hit it with a floor wax of some sort before the chickens go in to help prevent poop from sticking. I'd try for something with not a lot of texture if you can.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Armstrong-...-Wood-Look-Low-Gloss-Finish-1424530/999978490


I have a trailer that I'm converting into a coop now, and while the rotten wood flooring is coming out and will be replaced with a grate type situation for poop to fall through, I'll likely grab a sheet of vinyl that I can place inside during the winter if wind on our hills ends up whipping up through the floor and causing too much disturbance, and I'll use it when I use to coop to brood our initial flock.

Thanks for the heads up. I have primed the 3/4 plywood floor. Cut into 2 PCs for easy removal. I plan to lay heavy durometer pond liner over that plywood which is on top of hardware cloth to prevent bottom digging. The liner is virtually bullet proof, and can be pulled out anytime for a quick hose off and replace with a clean pc while the other is cleaned and dried for next change out.

Cheers

Roof installed

 

[saysfaa]

... is 7 to 8 feet too steep for 57" wide hut?

It is not too steep. It is more likely not steep enough. It is a little less than 1:6. That is considered a flat roof (anything less than 2:12 is). A low slope is between 2:12 and 4:12.

You could do a flat roof but they have enough disadvantages that you may want to rethink that.

I like your trailer!

 

[3KillerBs]

I'm concerned about the ventilation.

Traditional windows appeal to human ideas of aesthetics, but what you really need is big wire vents up at the top and bottom of the roof slope, even including the gable triangles -- protected by generous roof overhangs. One square foot of 24/7/365 ventilation per adult, standard-sized hen.

If you do go with traditional windows, you want the top-hinged kind that are their own awnings.

 

[MadGardener]

I would love to build my new coop on a trailer! My chickens have been on rotating pasture since Aug. They're currently rotating more slowly to till more gardening beds.

One thing to mention is it may be beneficial not to think of a "north" side. If you have much slope on your property then you won't always be able to use the same orientation. This may not be a drawback, though. I can spin my coops on wheels around to increase or decrease sunlight. Or if a storm defies our prevailing winds.

Being able to get your coop more or less level, and your wheels not pointed downhill will be important.

 

[BayBuzzard]

2 pc door set up, and freehand fabricated windows. All hail the skil saw.

 

[saysfaa]

.. i am going back and forth on the roof. The way i have it designed, it's like a big sail.

I don't know about wind. I was thinking leaks and snow load if you get snow.

But a lot of deer blinds are put on trailers, a search for how they do roofs or handle wind lift may help.

 

[BayBuzzard]

It's good to sketch things out before building, but I strongly encourage you to get some graph paper and draw to scale....it can help avoid some serious errors.

Thank you for that advice. Better half brought some home from work yesterday, they have a “free stuff” closet!