Another thing that DOES encourage broodiness
IF a girl is going to... is adequate nutrition. A Brahma is a dual purpose breed. I'm pretty sure Light refers to the color. As such, if you are feeding "Layer" with only 16% protein (is the minimum needed for light bodied layers like leghorn to continue production)... that really isn't enough IMO for a DP breed and especially one the is heavily feathered as I think of Brahma. Many breeders and show people feed "more" protein as it has PROVEN to give better overall feather quality and hatch rates (which to me says better nutrition in my families' eating eggs). Feather's are made of 90% protein and the amino acids it contains.
Plenty of space, good shelter, and feeling safe from predators. And the comfy nest box. Good external and internal parasite (fecal float verified) control. But please note I do agree that it's completely hormonal and partly genetic/inherited, regardless of breed! But these things do ALL have some impact on your desired outcome.
Eggs I wanna keep for hatching get rotated in and out so I have a supply of fresh hatching eggs all the time. I don't mind eating slightly older eggs, still fresher than the super market.
My ladies have some that will go broody every third egg they lay even though I leave NONE in the nest. They will stay broody on NO eggs until whenever. Others don't have a broody bone in their body. I like to use the incubator because I don't like my girls sitting forever and losing condition. I know going in I might have to raise them if I don't get a broody. But some girls are like clock work reliable, even this time of year! I have had ladies in the broody breaker through all of this season so far even though I don't provide extra light. 40's is our low most often. I do like to leave at least 1 or 2 fake eggs in each nest. Sometimes I will find the same 1 consistently kicked out, so place it in another nest. But I also find if take every egg, they will sometimes start looking for another place to lay and then do so. We free range on an acre, so I don't like having to search for nests in the blackberries.
How old is this gal your calling a hen? I personally would feed 18-20% protein minimum if hatching OR brooding were my goal with a dual purpose breed. I currently feed Purina Flock Raiser with 20% protein and 1% ish calcium with oyster shell on the side for my layers. I do this because I ALWAYS have broody's, layers, chicks, roosters, and breeders. So it's a happy medium. However I think I'm going to aim for a personal goal of 22% for my flock. One note of importance is not to diminish your protein level of your formulated ration by adding in low nutrient treats. Even though most feed are made of mostly corn it has vitamin, minerals, and amino acids added in that scratch and other things don't. And lettuce is mostly water doesn't really count as "greens" in their diet. If you don't have enough green pasture (sometimes weather related or due to confinement needs), one of my favorite thing to do is sprout barley into fodder and it only takes 7-8 days, a small amount of space. Ask if you want more detail!
How many birds in how much space?
Good luck!
