Training hen to be broody

[Chicken-lovebirdchihuahua]

I have a light brahma hen and I want her to go broody but she won't is there any ways to train or in courage her to become broody I'm starting to make a clutch of eggs as she lays but I was just wondering if anyone has any special tips that you have used or heard of thanks!

 

[featheredplanets]

No way to make a hen go broody. Some may brood twenty times a lifetime, others not at all. You can encourage her by making a dark cosy nest box, no over crowding or stress and let a clutch build but it's less likely to happen this time of year (spring and summer are best) and I personally think it's just a waste of eggs, if she will brood, she will brood, if not, then I'll use my incubator

 

[junebuggena]

It's the wrong time of year for brooding. And you can't train a hen to be broody. It's all about hormones. There is absolutely nothing you can do to force her into brooding. Eggs in a nest will not cause her to start brooding. I've got 3 broodies in my flock, and full nest has never once been the cause for brooding. They brood when they are ready to, on their own schedule. And keep in mind, even if she is a breed that is known for brooding, your particular hen may never brood at all in her entire life.

 

[centrarchid]

If you temperature is dropping below 27 F, then I would bring eggs you want to hatch indoors and keep them in a cool place where you can turn them daily. If she is to go broody, she may yet do so even though you keep pulling eggs. My game hens will move nest if they notice eggs are being removed so I cheat by putting in those fake eggs. Once broodiness commences, I replace fake eggs with the stored hatching eggs. As a general rule, I try not to have hatching eggs go more than about 14 days before incubation commences even though you can get some hatch with eggs at least 3 weeks old.

This all assumes she goes broody.

 

[Chicken-lovebirdchihuahua]

Thanks you where both very helpfully

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Another thing that DOES encourage broodiness IF a girl is going to... is adequate nutrition. A Brahma is a dual purpose breed. I'm pretty sure Light refers to the color. As such, if you are feeding "Layer" with only 16% protein (is the minimum needed for light bodied layers like leghorn to continue production)... that really isn't enough IMO for a DP breed and especially one the is heavily feathered as I think of Brahma. Many breeders and show people feed "more" protein as it has PROVEN to give better overall feather quality and hatch rates (which to me says better nutrition in my families' eating eggs). Feather's are made of 90% protein and the amino acids it contains.

Plenty of space, good shelter, and feeling safe from predators. And the comfy nest box. Good external and internal parasite (fecal float verified) control. But please note I do agree that it's completely hormonal and partly genetic/inherited, regardless of breed! But these things do ALL have some impact on your desired outcome.

Eggs I wanna keep for hatching get rotated in and out so I have a supply of fresh hatching eggs all the time. I don't mind eating slightly older eggs, still fresher than the super market.

My ladies have some that will go broody every third egg they lay even though I leave NONE in the nest. They will stay broody on NO eggs until whenever. Others don't have a broody bone in their body. I like to use the incubator because I don't like my girls sitting forever and losing condition. I know going in I might have to raise them if I don't get a broody. But some girls are like clock work reliable, even this time of year! I have had ladies in the broody breaker through all of this season so far even though I don't provide extra light. 40's is our low most often. I do like to leave at least 1 or 2 fake eggs in each nest. Sometimes I will find the same 1 consistently kicked out, so place it in another nest. But I also find if take every egg, they will sometimes start looking for another place to lay and then do so. We free range on an acre, so I don't like having to search for nests in the blackberries.

How old is this gal your calling a hen? I personally would feed 18-20% protein minimum if hatching OR brooding were my goal with a dual purpose breed. I currently feed Purina Flock Raiser with 20% protein and 1% ish calcium with oyster shell on the side for my layers. I do this because I ALWAYS have broody's, layers, chicks, roosters, and breeders. So it's a happy medium. However I think I'm going to aim for a personal goal of 22% for my flock. One note of importance is not to diminish your protein level of your formulated ration by adding in low nutrient treats. Even though most feed are made of mostly corn it has vitamin, minerals, and amino acids added in that scratch and other things don't. And lettuce is mostly water doesn't really count as "greens" in their diet. If you don't have enough green pasture (sometimes weather related or due to confinement needs), one of my favorite thing to do is sprout barley into fodder and it only takes 7-8 days, a small amount of space. Ask if you want more detail!

How many birds in how much space?

Good luck!

 

[Chicken-lovebirdchihuahua]

Thank you yours was so long so much thought and so much detail she was born in early march and I have 2 Roos 8 hens total

 

[Sunshine Flock]

Maybe put some quails under her? Hehehe!!

There's a charming discussion about a hen who found some quail in her nesting box. They lay eggs and sit on them, and one of the hens sits on them because she thinks they're hers!!

 

[Chicken-lovebirdchihuahua]

Do you think she'll sit? This is my New Hampshire red surprisingly once she met younger ones and tried to kill them she tolerates them now but she was one of the last ones who I thought would be a mother the video isn't loading but I will take another

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Thank you yours was so long so much thought and so much detail she was born in early march and I have 2 Roos 8 hens total

Probably too high a ratio of cockerels to pullets. Hard to tell as all situation will be unique. I keep my boys in a stag pen to control my genetics and ensure that no over or competitive mating takes place. But we do sometimes get predator attacks or there is always the possibility of an illness, so I do like to have a back up boy in case something happens.

For me if a lady is under a year old I will NOT let her sit. Her body is still maturing. If they do go broody once, they are likely to do so again. And so I would just be prepared for the next time a girl gets that way and then allow her to brood.

They don't actually become hens, roosters, or cocks until 1 year old, just as technical info. We still refer to them that way sometimes during casual conversation. But I like to share so at least you know.

Ah yes, sorry for too much detail! It's clearly something I'm passionate about and I've got thousands of thought spinning in my brain all the time. I can rarely get it out and especially in an organized fashion.

Also, in the beginning.. I thought getting a broody would be impossible. Now I have sold girls for being broody, because my flock can only handle so many! So if and when you do get yourself a broody lady, make sure you check BYC for a few important tips. It will be indicated by a lady who stays in the nest box and refuses to come out + runs back as fast as possible when removed. Some will and some won't squeal at you.

At least my brain IS focused on the good things in life!