Trap shy raccoon?

[Sylviaanne]

Ok, like I mentioned before, my husband doesn't listen to me. We bought a Havahart trap and something got it last night.

Yeah, got the trap, not got trapped in it. It was pulled about 100 yards from where we sat it and my husband didn't peg it down. When I told him he needed to he said it was too heavy, a raccoon couldn't move it. Right.

We used the head and neck of the chicken it already killed and the head and neck were still in the trap but you could see bits of flesh on the cage where it looked like some of the flesh had been pulled through the bars. There was no other fur on the cage. I had thought that like someone else said the raccoon, if big enough could back out of the trap. Since the cage had been drug quite a ways, I thought that maybe it had caught it's tail but no such luck.

So, do I have a raccoon? If not, what's your next best guess?
If it is the raccoon my husband saw several nights ago, to act like this, is it trap smart or wary?
If the raccoon is trap smart or wary, does that mean we won't be able to catch it with a Havahart trap?

 

[JackE]

If your trap is big enough, you can catch him. What you do is, wrap you bait in some extra hardware cloth, or even chickenwire. Then, secure the wired up bait in the back of the trap with some bailing wire. That makes it much more likely the animal will trip the trap, while he works at getting the bait free. He'll stomp all over the trigger when trying to get that "FreeMeal".

 

[Sylviaanne]

If your trap is big enough, you can catch him. What you do is, wrap you bait in some extra hardware cloth, or even chickenwire. Then, secure the wired up bait in the back of the trap with some bailing wire. That makes it much more likely the animal will trip the trap, while he works at getting the bait free. He'll stomp all over the trigger when trying to get that "FreeMeal".

Ok, got chicken wire but should I use more of the rotting carcass of the hen it killed or should I go with cat food from a can? Thanks.

 

[petrel]

JackE is right, so long as the raccoon is not trap savvy. Trap educated raccoons will just attempt to reach in from the side to get what they can, without entering the trap. You might get lucky. Otherwise you will need a leg hold trap to get him! Something like a Duke dog proof will get the job done.

 

[JackE]

Well, you could use the carcass. I've used sardines in the can. I just crack it open, wrap it, and wire it in there. But, some people have laughed at me, and said I was using HighDollar bait. From what I've heard, coons can't resist marshmallows. But really, coon will eat darn near anything.

 

[petrel]

Marshmallows are a favorite. An added benefit is that they are less apt to attract cats and dogs.

 

[JackE]

JackE is right, so long as the raccoon is not trap savvy. Trap educated raccoons will just attempt to reach in from the side to get what they can, without entering the trap. You might get lucky. Otherwise you will need a leg hold trap to get him! Something like a Duke dog proof will get the job done.

That's why you wrap the bait in wire. They just can't reach in and grab. I imagine it's almost irresistible to them, to see and smell the food so close, they go in the trap.

 

[BayBay Peepers]

We place a trap inbetween some barrels. That way nothing can go around or on top. We've been having pretty good luck catching the unwanteds. We mostly use tuna as bait.

 

[petrel]

I am not disagreeing with JackE. We've just had a couple of instances here where if the bait was properly secured, as you prescribed, the raccoon simply would not enter the trap. I guess they have been caught and released and have learned to resist the temptation.

 

[Sylviaanne]

Ok, what I'm worried about is that he is trap savvy. Would there be any other reason for dragging the trap so far away?

I thought that if it had caught his tail or a leg or something there would be fur caught in the hinges or between the wires but there isn't any.