Treating Lice and Mites

[Peytonandpancakes]

If I use elector in my coop and ivermectin orally for my chickens, will this be an effective treatment for lice?
Apparently, even though Elector is not labeled for use of lice, it IS effective.
I don’t want to pour it on my birds. I had a horrible experience with DE that caused respiratory/ocular issues in my flock. So now I’m paranoid about using ANY hardcore insecticides.

 

[kerbotx]

Several of my chickens developed bad respiratory and ocular issues. I really hate DE. Is Poultry dust similar?

Poultry dust is a fine powder, it will create a cloud of dust during the application process, especially if a bird gets excited & flaps their wings a bit! I do wear a face mask, cuz it takes a few minutes to treat 30 birds. But I feel the cloud dissipates fairly quickly, so as not to pose any lingering problems - perhaps it's a heavier particle, but I don't know that for sure. YMMV depending on your coop/setup, the # of birds, whether you do it indoors or outdoors.

It is not like DE in that the particles of DE have razor-sharp edges, meant to cut bugs to ribbons. It can have the same effect on any other living tissue. I've never used it, I'm not sold on its safety.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

If I use elector in my coop and ivermectin orally for my chickens, will this be an effective treatment for lice?
Apparently, even though Elector is not labeled for use of lice, it IS effective.
I don’t want to pour it on my birds. I had a horrible experience with DE that caused respiratory/ocular issues in my flock. So now I’m paranoid about using ANY hardcore insecticides.

I haven't use Elector PSP.. yet but if others have used it with efficacy for lice then I wouldn't waste time using the Ivermectin.

Permethrin.. sold as "horse fly spray".. a Small spritz below the vent, under each wing pit, and to nape pf the back of neck at the base of the head is COMPLETELY effective against lice and a fair number of mite species.. It's the synthetic version pyrethrin extract from chrysanthemum.. Sold under many brand names and concentrations (ready to use spritz or mix you own) in the equine section.. IS labeled for use on chicken (NOT safe ON cats) and NO egg withdrawal required.. even safe on chicks, broody hens, etc.. at a fraction of the cost of the PSP.. Under $10.. treat again in 10-14 days, according to direction for species being treated.

If you have the PSP already.. wait for others who have used it before using the ivermectin which is not labeled for use in chickens and doe s require an egg withdrawal, usual recommendation is 2 weeks.

FWIW, winter time is when poultry lice are most prevalent in MY location..

The nits/dead egg will NOT disappear even if the treatment has been effective.. according to MY experience/understanding.. So when once you do your follow up treatment.. (usually easiest done with a flashlight after dark keeping it dim).. then the following inspections.. don't treat again UNLESS you see BUGS or still angry red skin.. In extreme cases a third treatment MIGHT be needed..

Don't forget your wildlife load that's bringing the pest in the first place.. apparently rats, etc.. can be vectors of many things SO pay attention to any possible entry/return points that they may be coming in by. Some things may be worse seasonally or only in certain years. There's NO such thing as eradication, per say.. so follow up with a monthly check and treat only when needed..

The PSP, Ivermectin, and even permethin have variable efficacy throughout different regions probably due to overuse, lack of follow through, etc. So while there's no one perfect answer.. the products we are discussing here have been used for decades around the world EVEN on humans..

Ivermectin is also VERY effective if administered during the infectious stage of Sars Cov2 aka Covid 19, *sshhh*.. big pharm and the government don't want us to know!

This link says she uses PSP for lice..

https://the-chicken-chick.com/poultry-lice-and-mites-identification/

Fighting lice, mites, etc is a worthy fight. Hang in there and don't give up!

Sorry to hear about your DE issues.. I hope you will write up an article or share the TRUTH every time you get a chance.. I sit firmly in the anti DE camp for a multitude of reasons. But living in the PNW where the birds often enjoy worm/bug hunting in the rain.. no "dust" product is a good choice for ME. The permethirn spritz I suggested is a SMALL spray NOT a soaking at all, feathers parted so it hits the skin.

What's funny/sad is that it was DE that caused your paranoia.. an alleged natural or organic compound.. like arsenic and cyanide.. and ricin.. organic and/or natural is not always safer than synthetic or a better alternative!

 

[Aunt Angus]

I agree about permethrin. I acquired two rescued hens who were absolutely crawling with lice. Ew. I used permethrin spray on the birds, cleaned our all of their bedding, sprayed down the isolation coop they were in with it. I followed up with another spray of the birds as directed. No more lice! And it's a lot cheaper than Elector.

 

[David61]

martins permethrin 13.3% and your lice/mite problems are gone. end of store, no worries as its non toxic, no withholding eggs.
You mix it and spray the birds ,coop, roost twice in one month and you're cured. spray the coop and roost every month / every other month and birds twice a year and never see a lice or mite ever again.
way people wait to get lice or mites when a regular spray of the coop and roost every other month or twice a year would do.
The best buy in price is the big 32oz bottle from TSC.
yea thats alot @1/4oz per gallon of water but you mix it 1/2 oz to 1 oz to a gallon to spray the coop/roost or ground for flies. It stops flies around the coop like a dream.
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/control-solutions-permethrin-133-32-oz

 

[EggSighted4Life]

way people wait to get lice or mites when a regular spray of the coop and roost every other month or twice a year would do.
The best buy in price is the big 32oz bottle

It's not waiting to get anything..

It's NOT treating what you don't have.. and maintaining efficacy of what's being used instead of allowing resistance to be built and it NO longer working when you NEED it to.. plain and simple.

In more than 10 years of keeping chickens.. I've only had to treat 3 times.

Getting fecal floats instead of just treating what I DIDN'T have.. means my dogs didn't it get exposed to EXTRA poison to kill parasites for NO reason. Despite never having to treat dogs for worms.. in the past 20 years.. the one time I did "worm" without getting a float to confirm load it turned out to be cancer not worms causing the weight loss!

But things change.. I NOW at THIS location, and age of my animals, etc.. for the first time ever.. DO need to take action..

My personal vet said said mt dogs should have been getting flea treatment for the past MANY years.. last year, with a new friends routine in the picture is the first time I ever had to treat for fleas every month, month in and month out.. I wasn't waiting to get fleas.. I simply wasn't treating what wasn't MY issue.

Permethrin is completely ineffective in SOME locations. As is Ivermectin.. Talking with your department of agriculture or personal veterinarian CAN be FAR more valuable than wasting time using what won't work LOCALLY.. time is more valuable than gold to me.. I can't get it back once it's gone or make more of it. It might be the resource I value most.

Permethrin safe?? Lots of things are safe in small amounts, on their own, and short term. Intolerance by an individual CAN build over time as has been seen with folks using essential oils, etc.

I'm not saying your way is wrong or trying to argue.. I'm explaining why people like myself don't needlessly use chemicals excessively or WITHOUT cause.. CLAIMED to be safe or non toxic.. JUST because there is NO residual found in eggs.

Even vitamins and minerals, virus and bacteria, or basic water.. that are REQUIRED to sustain life WILL cause death in excess OR unbalanced ratios.

 

[David61]

lice and red mite are bad around here and always have been .
management is maintenance spraying a few times a year. it also helps keep the flies down. People here have burned their coop and started over because of red mites. The use of nothing is as bad as using to much. I have not treated for worms, coccidia or other things as you say but not on this as its a given here for red mites and flies.

 

[cmom]

I have just noticed mites. I have the 13% permethrin. Mixed 1oz per gallon. Showered my chicken soaking wet (myself as well) . Wiped the dead mites. Day 2 almost as bad. Day 3 again. Now I am day 5 between spray and poultry dust. My chickens are better but permethrin is doing almost nothing.
Only a chicken person for 4 years and never had any problems let alone this insane infestation. And everyone in my local group is having the same issue.

I am looking for ivermectin instructions.

One reason the permethrin isn't working is your mixture isn't strong enough. This is for Permethrin 10. One ounce will maybe give the mites or lice a headache but will not eliminate them.

Here are the dilution rates for the various concentrates of permethrin 10, 13.3 and 36.8
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/permethrin-dilution.1448295/post-24089092

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Do you have any ivermectin instructions? It's never labeled for poultry, only cows horses and sheep. My local poultry vet wouldn't do anything without paying for them to look and say "yup you have northern fowl mites". Permethrin is doing very little to help. I'm frustrated.

Permethrin getting mixed to the correct concentration is ONE reason I like the premixed ready to use one. Thanks cmom for setting that straight! Giving pests a headache is exactly how resistance is EASILY built way too often. Also store at proper temps and OUT of sunlight in order to maintain efficacy.

The are several type of poultry lice and head lice don't go down to the vent area.. that is why I recommended the spraying method I did.. hitting bums with a garden wand MAY not be sufficient. And don't forget to follow up for the second and/or 3rd treatment to try and break the cycle completely.. As stated by another poster.. if it's constantly in YOUR area and you are gonna face it no matter what then no need to wait for it to rear it's ugly head.

Understand there are literally thousands of mite types MANY of them being red in appearance will never feast on chickens.. so please don't panic every time you see a "red" mite. During my flea research I discovered there are more than 2500 species of flea and the one that MOST often infest dogs is actual cat fleas.. but that's a whole other branch of this challenge. My parents swore we could catch lice from feathers. Poultry lice will NOT set up habitation on humans. But I guess human lice (or whatever the correct term is) MIGHT possibly hitch a ride on fowl.

Ivermectin.. I see so many different suggestions and suspect it's due to different products being used. Maybe @dawg53 or @casportpony have done enough research and have confidence to share the effective treatment dose.. if you need to use as PART of your fight along with the permethrin.. swap, back and forth when needed to maintain efficacy.. not at the same time.. The following is a quote from dawg in another thread and related to worms not lice. actually, I'll link the tread before the quote.. At the end of that thread thread I see dawg was attempting to withdraw the recommendation.. ah, times and understanding DO change for many of us..

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/totally-confused-about-ivomec-and-how-to-use.393199/page-7

"Ivermectin pour on and Ivomec eprinex pour on are absorbed quickly through the skin into the bloodstream. Dosages for both pour ons are the same. Both kill roundworms, gapeworms, most lice/mites and many other types of worms, but not tapeworms. There is a clear warning on the ivermectin pour on label stating a 48 day slaughter withdrawal period. However, for egg consumption it's the standard 2 week withdrawal period. There is NO withdrawal for ivomec eprinex pour on. Ivomec injectable- 50ml 1% injectable cattle ivermectin...mix it as follows; 4cc/ml per gallon of water. The mixture is the only water the chickens get for 2 days. For lice/mites, retreat in 14 days w/ same dosage and time. The injectable would be ideal for large flocks. Standard 2 week withdrawal period applies. Withdrawal times are for basically for 2 purposes; To give the wormers time to kill and expel the worms over a period of time and to give a safe margin of time for the wormer itself to be expelled from the chickens system. It prevents possible sensitivity to individuals ingesting a given amount (including minute quantities) of the wormer preventing a possible allergic reaction. It is true that it one of the safest wormers on the market."

Oh wait, I remembered my favorite veterinary resource and of course the answer is there.. Merck veterinary manual..

https://www.merckvetmanual.com/poultry/ectoparasites/mites-of-poultry#:~:text=Systemic control with ivermectin (1.8,levels, and require repeated use.

Always use YOUR own discernment.

 

[kerbotx]

If lice is your only issue, then poultry dust is a great treatment. A pistol duster does help with application.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/y-tex-gardstar-garden-poultry-dust?cm_vc=-10005