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Has anyone tried the cooling of eggs for like 10 minutes a day method? I know this helps with goose eggs getting the air sack right. I'm wondering if this technique is used in turkey eggs.
I was talking about the Porters website; when you increase the humidity to 80%, you need to turn your temp down.The conversion of the wet/dry bulb reading to the % of relative Humidity shows a dry bulb reading at 100 degrees converts to a dry bulb reading of 80 converts to a wet bulb reading of 42.
I think we are talking apples and oranges here!
If you have an octagon 20 eco can you get the humidity even up to 80% with the trays for water that come with the bator?
If you have an octagon 20 eco can you get the humidity even up to 80% with the trays for water that come with the bator?
You can, but it is difficult. I have had a Octagon 20 Advanced for a couple of years. I have found that if I cut pieces of sponge, wet them, and fit them down in the trays that will help. Then I fill the trays with water and line the bottom of the incubator (over top of the trays) with a couple layers of paper towels. This will eventually dry out and need more water though.
If the humidity drops during lock-down, I have a good method for getting water in without lifting the lid. I found that a smaller diameter plastic drinking straw will fit through the vent hole and past all the working parts (have to be careful and put it in at a slight angle). Anyway, I cut the corner out of a sandwich bag and tape it around the top of the straw. Then, I can pinch the straw at the top and fill the bag partially with water. Put the straw into the incubator and let the water out. If you aim well, you can get the straw between the eggs that are over the tray areas, so you won't have a leaky mess from the drain holes in the bottom of the bator.
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Yes it does sound like a good one, can you elaborate as to what you do with the eggs and how cold and how ofter? I usually just go from gathering eggs right into the bator!I haven't heard of the cooling as the waterfowl cooling being used on hens or turkeys. Another good experiment!!
How are you measuring humidity? When last was your humidity meter calibrated? I worked in a lab where we used wet bulb calibration and converted to dry bulb taking temp. into consideration, and according to my calculations 80% @100 degrees suggested for Turkey eggs would equal to 42% on your incubator's readout. Charts are always at sea level, too, so you have to adjust for any increases in atmospheric pressures.I was talking about the Porters website; when you increase the humidity to 80%, you need to turn your temp down.
Wouldn't it be easier using a large syringe?You can, but it is difficult. I have had a Octagon 20 Advanced for a couple of years. I have found that if I cut pieces of sponge, wet them, and fit them down in the trays that will help. Then I fill the trays with water and line the bottom of the incubator (over top of the trays) with a couple layers of paper towels. This will eventually dry out and need more water though.
If the humidity drops during lock-down, I have a good method for getting water in without lifting the lid. I found that a smaller diameter plastic drinking straw will fit through the vent hole and past all the working parts (have to be careful and put it in at a slight angle). Anyway, I cut the corner out of a sandwich bag and tape it around the top of the straw. Then, I can pinch the straw at the top and fill the bag partially with water. Put the straw into the incubator and let the water out. If you aim well, you can get the straw between the eggs that are over the tray areas, so you won't have a leaky mess from the drain holes in the bottom of the bator.
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