using manure for fertalizer

Again, please read the University Ag Extension guidelines posted above and do the counting of days for yourself, since everyone's growing zone is different.

If you intend to plant, compost containing raw manure, or raw manure itself, should cease being applied once you approach your date. This applies particularly to ground and ground contact vegetables, as these are most susceptible. If you are within 60 days of planting such crops, safe practices call for a cessation of applying raw manure and that would also extend to compost still containing raw manure.

Once we hit this cessation date, all manure and composting becomes NEXT year's composting material.
 
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It is not merely the "amount" of nitrogen in Chicken manure that burns the roots of young plants, but also the kind of nitrogen. The N-P-K of chicken manure is outstandingly high and rich, but it is also very quick to release. This quick release is also what contributes to the root burning of young plants. Plants can be "burned' from an overload of phosphorus as badly as an overdose of nitrogen. Remember also that nitrogen is a gas and releases quite quickly into the atmosphere, just through handling the manure, turning the manure, etc. Tilling in chicken manure immediately upon application, if possible, assists in getting the most benefit from that nitrogen as organisms in the soil will "take it up" and hold it for your plants use later on.

Chicken manure's N-P-K is normally expressed as 1.1 .80 .50
Don't be fooled by those apparently "low" numbers when comparing it to a chemical fertilizer such as garden variety 12-12-12. The wallop that manure packs has a bigger impact.

Thus, the pre-app of chicken litter to a gardening space needs time. It isn't just the pathogens that one worries about, but also the too hot nature of chicken poop. The 60 day cessation of raw manure before planting is a good standard to follow. OK, probably T.M.I.
smile.png
 
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If you zoom in, you'll see chicken litter here on one of our gardens. That is all we use, along with leaves. You'll see, if you look closely enough, that I use straw, but also some wood chips for bedding. This photo was taken on a pretty day in fall, likely late November, since the leaves are off the trees. Those post gardening days of November are an ideal time to use the litter, as you can still work the manure into the soil, as shown. Once the ground freezes (for northern gardeners) the manure is still applied, throughout winter, even on top of the snow, but it cannot be worked in.

I will, in fact, be heading out today to clean the barn, and spread litter on top of the snow. If I think of it, I'll snap a photo or two.
 
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So, Fred, even if the litter freezes, it counts towards your 60-90 days of "curing"?

I am using the deep litter method, with litter made mostly of leaves, with some pine shavings. I am thinking of removing just the litter under the roost for composting, since my leaves are collected in the fall, so I have some benefit to the garden this year.

BTW, I've been dying to know, where is Northern Mitten?
 
The picture of the garden and the chickens is very uplifting. What a setup for both the chickens and you. Chickens are so much fun to be around.
 
So, Fred, even if the litter freezes, it counts towards your 60-90 days of "curing"?

I am using the deep litter method, with litter made mostly of leaves, with some pine shavings. I am thinking of removing just the litter under the roost for composting, since my leaves are collected in the fall, so I have some benefit to the garden this year.

BTW, I've been dying to know, where is Northern Mitten?

I do not know when you begin planting your garden, but since tomorrow is Feb 1st, if you live in the south, everyone's cut-off date has pretty much arrived, or will soon be arriving, if you are in the northern regions, where we live. Those who intend to use manure on their gardens this year, need to be spreading it now, or start your 2013 compost pile.


Hint: I live in that state, where the water surrounding it, make it look like a mitten.
wink.png
 
It is not merely the "amount" of nitrogen in Chicken manure that burns the roots of young plants, but also the kind of nitrogen. The N-P-K of chicken manure is outstandingly high and rich, but it is also very quick to release. This quick release is also what contributes to the root burning of young plants. Plants can be "burned' from an overload of phosphorus as badly as an overdose of nitrogen. Remember also that nitrogen is a gas and releases quite quickly into the atmosphere, just through handling the manure, turning the manure, etc. Tilling in chicken manure immediately upon application, if possible, assists in getting the most benefit from that nitrogen as organisms in the soil will "take it up" and hold it for your plants use later on.

Chicken manure's N-P-K is normally expressed as 1.1 .80 .50
Don't be fooled by those apparently "low" numbers when comparing it to a chemical fertilizer such as garden variety 12-12-12. The wallop that manure packs has a bigger impact.

Thus, the pre-app of chicken litter to a gardening space needs time. It isn't just the pathogens that one worries about, but also the too hot nature of chicken poop. The 60 day cessation of raw manure before planting is a good standard to follow. OK, probably T.M.I.
smile.png
Thank you so much for all your helpful information. I think when it warms up briefly tomorrow I'll move a bunch of the fresh manure I've raked out this winter to the garden. It certainly needs it!
 
I do not know when you begin planting your garden, but since tomorrow is Feb 1st, if you live in the south, everyone's cut-off date has pretty much arrived, or will soon be arriving, if you are in the northern regions, where we live. Those who intend to use manure on their gardens this year, need to be spreading it now, or start your 2013 compost pile.


Hint: I live in that state, where the water surrounding it, make it look like a mitten.
wink.png


As in the UP?
 

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