<Very> Insulated Chicken Coop

[HeritageButcherBlock.com]

You'll need a dozer to move that thing on skids.

You are going to need more ventilation than you think, even with insulation metal containers get hot inside and that means lots of air exchange has to happen. I would figure on 1 sq. ft. per 2 birds for vent sizing in a shipping type container. Think car interiors in the sun and you will be close to understanding the heat temps to expect. I would try for high and low vents so you will get passive air flow. Remember, metal is a heat and cold conductor, you might want to use wood for any framing instead of adding more metal.
Unless you are going to have run and coop fully enclosed in wire mesh, you might want to re think using doggy doors, any critter can walk right in and get your flock.

Thanks for your input. The chickens run free during daylight hours and the doggy doors would be closed up at night. There are lions and coyotes living around the lake.

You make a good point about the metal being a heat & cold conductor. I will do some more research on how the closed cell foam insulation impacts this. I will also use lumber for the framing.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

If you forego the insulation and want some solar radiant protection:

Black Jack and Gardner and ....others I'm sure make a siliconized metal roof coating to reflect solar heating along with protection/waterproofing the roof. Something like that might be in order for summer, sides and roof. Can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on and about $90 for 5 gallon pail, 100 sqft coverage per gallon per coat. Here's the lower quality 7 year warranty stuff that's $72:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-5-Gal-Sta-Kool-Elastomeric-White-Roof-Coating-SK-7805/202057691

 

[HenOnAJuneBug]

Oh you have a PODS. I don't know how those are constructed. I was thinking shipping container. I have to move one of those shortly and I'm dreading it.

 

[HenOnAJuneBug]

Another thing you could use to block radiant heat is the shiny bubble wrap stuff. You'd have to have an air gap between the metal surface and the foil for it to work. Might be kind of pricey though to cover that much.

 

[HenOnAJuneBug]

Another thing you could use to block radiant heat is the shiny bubble wrap stuff. You'd have to have an air gap between the metal surface and the foil for it to work. Might be kind of pricey though to cover that much.

Here's what I was talking about - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-48-in-x-100-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-BP48100/202092205

Not much R value, but it supposedly blocks 90-95% of radiant heat if installed correctly (I think)

 

[HeritageButcherBlock.com]

If you forego the insulation and want some solar radiant protection:

Black Jack and Gardner and ....others I'm sure make a siliconized metal roof coating to reflect solar heating along with protection/waterproofing the roof. Something like that might be in order for summer, sides and roof. Can be sprayed, brushed or rolled on and about $90 for 5 gallon pail, 100 sqft coverage per gallon per coat. Here's the lower quality 7 year warranty stuff that's $72:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-5-Gal-Sta-Kool-Elastomeric-White-Roof-Coating-SK-7805/202057691

Thanks I will check this out. I have have hydro-radiant heated floors as the heat source in my house. I also used the same closed cell insulation in my walls. But I used the reflective insulation under the floors. I like learning new things.

 

[HeritageButcherBlock.com]

Oh you have a PODS. I don't know how those are constructed. I was thinking shipping container. I have to move one of those shortly and I'm dreading it.

The PODs are shipping containers. We put our PODs on skids. Then we just pull them into new position with the big tractor.

 

[flyin-lowe]

The winter temps depend on the breed you get. I am in Indiana and this past winter we had nights with temps below zero and wind chills near 30 below. My coop has two 18"x18" canopy windows on one side and 2 12"x12" slider windows on the other side. I have a ridge vent that is about 5 inches wide the entire length of the coop that is wide open and my eaves are wide open. I never closed the windows at all this winter, the ventilation is more important then "heat". There are threads on here from people in Canada and further north with no insulation or heat sources. There are some breads that cant handle the cold but the ones I have did just fine, they are 2 years old now. (RIR, Barred Rocks, and Golden Comets.)

 

[HeritageButcherBlock.com]

The winter temps depend on the breed you get. I am in Indiana and this past winter we had nights with temps below zero and wind chills near 30 below. My coop has two 18"x18" canopy windows on one side and 2 12"x12" slider windows on the other side. I have a ridge vent that is about 5 inches wide the entire length of the coop that is wide open and my eaves are wide open. I never closed the windows at all this winter, the ventilation is more important then "heat". There are threads on here from people in Canada and further north with no insulation or heat sources. There are some breads that cant handle the cold but the ones I have did just fine, they are 2 years old now. (RIR, Barred Rocks, and Golden Comets.)

Thanks for the info. We're moving to the Barred Plymouth Rock laying hens. I won't worry so much about insulation.

 

[aart]

I won't worry so much about insulation.

Right, but do worry about ventilation.

The top of pods are flat, correct? Any plans for shedding rain water and snow melt?
Large roof overhangs are often suggested to protect windows/ventilation openings, and egress/egg access/clean-out doors.

Looking at your floor plan...how are you going to get in there to clean with all those roosts in the way, or will they be over your head? You mentioned pressure washing, not a great idea to flood a coop with water, the healthiest coops are dry...tho I believe your climate is pretty dry so maybe it will dry out quickly enough, but still.

Just some thoughts.