Wanting to get into pigeons(advice needed!)

[biophiliac]

My auto correct hates me, please ignore the spelling mistakes! And here's a photo of the rough imagined layout

I have a very small loft- 4x6x6 enclosed, plus 2x4x4ft of aviary. Your 8x8 is better than that but if you really get into pigeons you are going to want separate sections for hens, cocks, youngbirds, etc. Apparently 5x5sections are considered ideal by the Belgians who are very highly regarded in the world of pigeon racing. Pigeon racing is the national sport of Belgium. So you might find this vid interesting.

@ biophiliac I kinda figured, it's why the loft is being set up in our far field(chicken coop in nearer field, but I'd don't doubt my current birds would go for some pigeon meat -_-)


You wouldn't have to distance the loft from the coop as long as there is a barrier dividing the pigeons from your other poultry inside and in an enclosed run... outside 'free ranging' no worries. So I would site your pigeon loft where its most convenient for you to get to in all weather conditions. I would pay attention to prevailing winds in orienting the structure.

I was actually considering some white homers! But do you know if theres any difference in risk whith the bird being so noticable to predators or are they generally the same as long as theyve got the speed to escape? I know I'll lose some either way but is their any difference?

I agree with @cavemanrich , people may conclude that if a white bird is taken it's because of the color but I think the selection criteria BOP use is far more complex... heathy, fit flyers are safest imo but there is always a risk.

And finally, to make your tag work- do not leave a space between the '@' and the username, like this ... @tacothechicken (should be blue in the text)

Sorry the first part of my reply is buried in the quote...

 

[LamarshFish]

When you build your loft, do yourself a favor and make it have at least two sections. There will be times when you will really want to stop them from breeding, and removing eggs and replacing them with fakes simply drains the hens' otherwise limited supply of eggs. Another reason is that there will be times when you will want to fly only some of your birds, for example to train young birds and you don't want the older, stronger fliers out with them, and also when you have exceptional breeders that you never want to let fly at all.

Keeping chickens or ducks with pigeons has been done, but I think it is more trouble than what it's worth.

If you loft fly, be prepare to lose some birds to hawks, fly aways etc, there is really no way around it.

 

[biophiliac]

OP could do two 4x6 sections with a 2 ft wide passage/entry.

 

[LamarshFish]

OP could do two 4x6 sections with a 2 ft wide passage/entry.

Yup. That is more or less the design I'm considering. Without a doubt, I need a larger loft, and at least two sections (for the reasons I stated above). But I'm now beating myself up over whether I want THREE sections lol. I think I'm going to give it one more year to see if I'm still as enthusiastic about my pigeons. In the meantime the only downsides may be flying and potentially losing good breeders and being limited to not much more than 12 birds.

 

[tacothechicken]

Ok so thanks again for all the advice! We have a ton of room like I said so I used some old fence posts and wood to layout the current idea!(we have street construction interfering w/ internet though so pics won't upload . -_-) thinking 5x10 each divided area whith breeders in center other two sides will have traps on back wall and perches on length side. I figure we can also do a incoming trap for the flight area and manual doors to let the birds come in and out of loft to flight area while letting me be selective about whos whith who. Another question: ybs and obs, or boys and girls on each side?Like I said I'm only starting whith 2 breeding pairs of birds and maybe a pair of squeekers. I'm thinking the flight trap on side cause we are a prime raptor spot so if I catch something happening the birds have as many ways to get back/escape as possible(but is it worth it?). I also want to know: since obviously the floorings not going to be grass! and the ground is highly lumpy, what do you think is best for flight area ground coverage? I was thinking those heavy duty mats used in barns for horses and such whith shavings on top, but any preferences?

 

[Hokum Coco]

shavings on top,

Shavings on your floor will migrate to the walls when the pigeons fly within the loft. Some fanciers use a wire grid above a tarp or something similar to your mats to deal with the floor.

 

[laughingdog]

Maybe raise homers and fancy show droppers. I didn't have any luck using my show birds as droppers for my performance breeds, but supposedly they serve purpose for most, and fancy. Though tumbler breeds best of both worlds for years till lofts decimated.

 

[tacothechicken]

Alrighty so now that I feel I do have a general layout I have a question on vaccines! I know there's a bazillion things they could be vulnerable to catching but I live In Northwest Washington along the coast. What are common treatments and vaccines that I should have on hand in probability of emergency? Obviously I've looked up types and such but there's so many and so expensive, give me 3 that you guys would prioritize and how often you'd give it. I have vitamins etc, but actual VACCINATIONS AND MEDICATIONS I should have on hand? I do have an exotic vet so I'm not pressed for resources treatment wise but I'd like to be prepared..

 

[biophiliac]

@tacothechicken

Good question. I've only had mine since Dec '17 and they are un-vaccinated so far as I know. I have no meds on hand at the moment. Here's something I found online....

and a good general resource for pigeon health...
http://www.melbournebirdvet.com/common-pigeon-disease-amp-treatments.aspx