Now I'm wondering what kind of tomatoes BReeder is trying to grow, as it would have an effect on the weather/productivity.
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I don't count on them after August. Once it begins to cool off they ripen much slower. I do normally still get some in Sept and maybe Oct (like last year was actually pretty warm in those months) but I don't count on it. I want to put up sauce and salsa, so I'm looking at the getting loads of ripe tomatoes in bulk, not the occasional late season tomato that makes a nice salad.@BReeder! I am not understanding your comment:
"With only having until August to harvest tomatoes in prime weather conditions (heat), I often throw so many underdeveloped tomatoes into the compost pile. "
Here in northern Wisconsin, I start getting tomatoes in late July and usually pick tomatoes until first hard frost in October. I have covered my tomatoes and been harvesting until there is snow on the ground.
NE Ohio it's a far ride...
As for 4H, I know there is a program but I don't know much about it or who to contact. I do want to get my kids involved, but my oldest just turned 4.
Part of the trick to tomatoes isn't the age of the plant but the soil temperature and the heat at NIGHT. Tomatoes ripen in the dark hours. Until the soil temp hit a certain temp, the plants don't even hardly grow. We don't bother planting until June 1st here.I really have the itch to pot tomatoes. They will not get transplanted to the garden until May, but I can transplant to 4" or 6" pots as they grow. I'm thinking the ability to transplant to 6"should give me a longer window to get them started and that might result in stronger, thicker plants to put in the garden. With only having until August to harvest tomatoes in prime weather conditions (heat), I often throw so many underdeveloped tomatoes into the compost pile. Perhaps trying this new concept of extra early (by 2 added weeks) starts will get me tomatoes sooner, meaning more overall yield as they continue to produce - at least for the indeterminate ones, but I'll start the determinate early too just to see if they yield faster.
I know they need heat. Thanks for the added detail on why though. Early May seems to work out well here and they are in full sun in mounds which I think aids our soil temp, but larger transplants would be nice. I use a warming mat under my starter tray for tomatoes too. I usually take it away after they sprout. Do you think I should leave it to keep them warm as they grow? The room temp is about 65-70F. The mat probably add 10-15 degrees so say the starters are 80F with the warning mat under them.Part of the trick to tomatoes isn't the age of the plant but the soil temperature and the heat at NIGHT. Tomatoes ripen in the dark hours. Until the soil temp hit a certain temp, the plants don't even hardly grow. We don't bother planting until June 1st here.
Take the warmer pads away after the second set of TRUE leaves appear.I know they need heat. Thanks for the added detail on why though. Early May seems to work out well here and they are in full sun in mounds which I think aids our soil temp, but larger transplants would be nice. I use a warming mat under my starter tray for tomatoes too. I usually take it away after they sprout. Do you think I should leave it to keep them warm as they grow? The room temp is about 65-70F. The mat probably add 10-15 degrees so say the starters are 80F with the warning mat under them.
Don’t over do itNot much happening today. It’s bright and sunny. I want to go out and work on the fence but I’m making myself take a break since I couldn’t get one over the weekend. And I seem to have strained my shoulder.