What did you do in the garden today?

[jerryse]

False spring. Enjoy it while it's here. It will not last long.

 

[WthrLady]

Well... I noticed my fruit trees are still dormant but with all this warm weather in the 60s and 70s, it's only a matter of days (likely) before they start coming out. I still need to prune everything and spray with dormant oil. Of course it's supposed to rain all weekend. We need it so I won't complain but now I'm praying I don't get behind the 8 ball on disease and pest management.

Doing mine Sunday. Our pine trees are pollinating up here.

 

[Minanora]

Some seeds sprouted today! Asparagus, French thyme, hyssop, violas.

Looks like more will come up soon. Never started asparagus from seed. Was excited to see one. I didn't get photos....

It wasn't asparagus... It was a nasturtium! I dropped a 3" pot I had seeds in, into my seed starting mix. Those seeds are pretty big. I dunno how I missed two of them. I transplanted it outside. There's another one in the pepper tray.



I staked in 3 20' waddles at the property yesterday. That was a good workout. Ready for the 4 inches of rain. Packed mud in front of them where it had ran from that last storm.

 

[Finchbreeder]

Been pruning the Japanese pepper tree in the back yard. These things seem to grow when you turn your back on them this year.
Hung out a bunch of washing to dry. (not gardening, but in the garden)
My crazy Canary hen is still laying eggs in late Summer - so the weather has her very confused. She is supposed to be a Spring breeder.

 

[jxp]

My seed tray was left for dead and something sprouted. It could be a pepper plant I planted a few months ago. This is now my baby..
View attachment 4297398

And he shall be known as Vidar.

 

[Molpet]

I have heard of using Hubbard as a trap crop for squash. I'll have to plant some mustard.

THE SACRIFICIAL SHIELD.
You spend months nurturing your broccoli and cauliflower. Then, in April, the white butterflies arrive. Weeks later, your crop is a skeletonized ruin. Your instinct is to spray. Don't. Instead of chemical warfare, use biological deception. To save the Queen (your broccoli), you must offer a Pawn.

The Myth of "Random Attacks" We often think pests land on our vegetables by bad luck. In reality, specialists like the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae) and Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta spp.) navigate by smell. They are tracking specific volatile compounds called Isothiocyanates (mustard oils). The mistake gardeners make is planting a monoculture of broccoli, which creates a massive, singular scent plume that acts like a neon "EAT HERE" sign.

The Scientific Reality: Trap Cropping This technique is known in agroecology as Trap Cropping. Mustard (Brassica juncea) produces these volatile mustard oils in much higher concentrations than domesticated broccoli or cauliflower.

The Pull: To a pest, the mustard is "louder" and "tastier" than your main crop. It acts as a sink, drawing the pests away from the valuable vegetables.

The Evidence: Studies in Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata have shown that planting a perimeter of trap crops can significantly reduce oviposition (egg-laying) on the main cash crop. The pests land on the mustard, lay their eggs there, and leave your dinner alone.

Current Seasonal Behavior: The Pre-Emptive Strike Why talk about this in February? Because a trap only works if it is ready before the enemy arrives.

Phenological Timing: The Cabbage White Butterfly emerges from its chrysalis as soon as daytime temperatures consistently hit 50–60°F. If you wait until you see the butterfly to plant your mustard, you are too late.

Cold Tolerance: Mustard is incredibly cold-hardy. Sowing it now (in the South) or preparing the bed (in the North) ensures it is leafy and aromatic exactly when the first wave of pests wakes up.

Why This Matters Ecologically Trap cropping is a pillar of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). It replaces broad-spectrum pesticides—which kill beneficial pollinators and predators—with a plant that increases biodiversity. Plus, unlike a pesticide, you can eat the trap.

Practical Action: The "4x4 Protocol" Based on successful field trials, here is the specific density required to create an effective shield:

The Location: Choose a spot near your brassicas (cauliflower/cabbage) but not touching them. You want to lure pests to a nearby "island," not build a bridge to your crop.

The Density (Critical): Do not plant in neat rows. You need a jungle. For a 4x4 foot area, use a heavy hand—approx. 1/2 cup of seeds.

The "Zhuzh": Prepare the soil with 1 inch of aged compost. Scatter the seeds on top and lightly "zhuzh" (mix) them into the surface. Do not bury them deep; they need light to trigger germination.

The Maintenance: Water daily. In 3 days, they sprout. In 2 weeks, you have a dense green mat.

The Double Harvest:

Phase 1: Harvest the baby greens for yourself in month one (spicy salad).

Phase 2: Let the plants bolt (flower). This attracts pollinators, and the pests will congregate on the flowers/seed pods, leaving your broccoli pristine.

The Verdict Mustard is the bodyguard of the garden. It takes the hits so your cauliflower doesn't have to. Plant it thick. Plant it early. Eat the shield.

Scientific References & Evidence
Mechanism: Hokkanen, H. M. T. (1991). Trap cropping in pest management. Annual Review of Entomology. (The foundational text on using attractive plants to divert pests).

Chemical Ecology: Renwick, J. A. A. (2002). The chemical world of crucivores: lures, treats and traps. Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata. (Explains the role of glucosinolates in attracting Pieris rapae).

Field Application: University of Massachusetts Extension. "Using Trap Crops for Management of Diamondback Moth and Flea Beetles."

Cultural Control: Parker, J. E., et al. (2013). (Studies on companion planting efficiency).

 

[MROO]

False spring. Enjoy it while it's here. It will not last long.

It's Old Man Winter playing Arnold Schwarzenegger ... "I'm leaving, but I'll be bach!"

 

[jerryse]

I have heard of using Hubbard as a trap crop for squash. I'll have to plant some mustard.


View attachment 4297924

THE SACRIFICIAL SHIELD.
You spend months nurturing your broccoli and cauliflower. Then, in April, the white butterflies arrive. Weeks later, your crop is a skeletonized ruin. Your instinct is to spray. Don't. Instead of chemical warfare, use biological deception. To save the Queen (your broccoli), you must offer a Pawn.

The Myth of "Random Attacks" We often think pests land on our vegetables by bad luck. In reality, specialists like the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae) and Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta spp.) navigate by smell. They are tracking specific volatile compounds called Isothiocyanates (mustard oils). The mistake gardeners make is planting a monoculture of broccoli, which creates a massive, singular scent plume that acts like a neon "EAT HERE" sign.

The Scientific Reality: Trap Cropping This technique is known in agroecology as Trap Cropping. Mustard (Brassica juncea) produces these volatile mustard oils in much higher concentrations than domesticated broccoli or cauliflower.

The Pull: To a pest, the mustard is "louder" and "tastier" than your main crop. It acts as a sink, drawing the pests away from the valuable vegetables.

The Evidence: Studies in Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata have shown that planting a perimeter of trap crops can significantly reduce oviposition (egg-laying) on the main cash crop. The pests land on the mustard, lay their eggs there, and leave your dinner alone.

Current Seasonal Behavior: The Pre-Emptive Strike Why talk about this in February? Because a trap only works if it is ready before the enemy arrives.

Phenological Timing: The Cabbage White Butterfly emerges from its chrysalis as soon as daytime temperatures consistently hit 50–60°F. If you wait until you see the butterfly to plant your mustard, you are too late.

Cold Tolerance: Mustard is incredibly cold-hardy. Sowing it now (in the South) or preparing the bed (in the North) ensures it is leafy and aromatic exactly when the first wave of pests wakes up.

Why This Matters Ecologically Trap cropping is a pillar of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). It replaces broad-spectrum pesticides—which kill beneficial pollinators and predators—with a plant that increases biodiversity. Plus, unlike a pesticide, you can eat the trap.

Practical Action: The "4x4 Protocol" Based on successful field trials, here is the specific density required to create an effective shield:

The Location: Choose a spot near your brassicas (cauliflower/cabbage) but not touching them. You want to lure pests to a nearby "island," not build a bridge to your crop.

The Density (Critical): Do not plant in neat rows. You need a jungle. For a 4x4 foot area, use a heavy hand—approx. 1/2 cup of seeds.

The "Zhuzh": Prepare the soil with 1 inch of aged compost. Scatter the seeds on top and lightly "zhuzh" (mix) them into the surface. Do not bury them deep; they need light to trigger germination.

The Maintenance: Water daily. In 3 days, they sprout. In 2 weeks, you have a dense green mat.

The Double Harvest:

Phase 1: Harvest the baby greens for yourself in month one (spicy salad).

Phase 2: Let the plants bolt (flower). This attracts pollinators, and the pests will congregate on the flowers/seed pods, leaving your broccoli pristine.

The Verdict Mustard is the bodyguard of the garden. It takes the hits so your cauliflower doesn't have to. Plant it thick. Plant it early. Eat the shield.

Scientific References & Evidence
Mechanism: Hokkanen, H. M. T. (1991). Trap cropping in pest management. Annual Review of Entomology. (The foundational text on using attractive plants to divert pests).

Chemical Ecology: Renwick, J. A. A. (2002). The chemical world of crucivores: lures, treats and traps. Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata. (Explains the role of glucosinolates in attracting Pieris rapae).

Field Application: University of Massachusetts Extension. "Using Trap Crops for Management of Diamondback Moth and Flea Beetles."

Cultural Control: Parker, J. E., et al. (2013). (Studies on companion planting efficiency).

Sounds good but you just gave a huge amount of larva a buffet. You must kill pests on the trap crop to make a difference.

 

[Molpet]

Sounds good but you just gave a huge amount of larva a buffet. You must kill pests on the trap crop to make a difference.

True. I was hoping it would be easier if they were on something I didn't care if I accidentally damaged.

 

[cj2024]

My winter melon leaves get ravished by aphids', powdery mildew and often times look like its dying, but it still kicks out new shoots and more winter melon that I can eat, so I just water and fertilize it and once in a while, I use a hose canister with soap to kill the aphid population.