What did you do in the garden today?

The borers come out early here. I have been lucky to get a few fruits before the plants wilt.

My mom used to slice the stem open to remove the borers, too, but there are too many here for me to do that, I've tried. I might try the pantyhose method this year (wrap the lower stem with pantyhose).
 
The borers come out early here. I have been lucky to get a few fruits before the plants wilt.

My mom used to slice the stem open to remove the borers, too, but there are too many here for me to do that, I've tried. I might try the pantyhose method this year (wrap the lower stem with pantyhose).
I read about that method (pantyhose) and wondered if it would work, or just cause the SVB to lay their eggs higher on the stem.

We tried the stab and kill (and cover wound with moist dirt) method, but the damage was too great in each case and the plant did not survive.
 
The stem is exposed, so you can inspect it easily.

I've not had any trouble with them. But if you do, I've heard you can just slice the stem, kill the insect, and the plant survives just fine.
You are lucky you don’t have problems with them. I’m stuck with them as my neighbor loves to plant pumpkins for the blossoms. Then he gets huge amounts of squash bugs and SVB as he does nothing about them. By the time they are around he has had his yearly fill of squash blossoms, so it is ok to him that the plants die.

When I’ve tried the cut and kill method, it hasn’t worked -too much damage, and usually there is more than 1caterpillar in the stem. But maybe if caught early.

Last year, I trellised the squash, and I specifically inspected the bottom portion of the stems For SVB eggs regularly and frequently - but I never found any, even on the impacted plants. So, I’m apparently not adept at seeing the eggs!
 
no, I doubt it. The vine borer finds the stem, near the dirt, lays an egg. As soon as it hatches, the tiny caterpillar bores into the stem to remain and feed off the plant, eventually killing it. Since it’s inside the stem, it’s not harmed by pesticides.

Last year, I used soapy water in yellow bowls. Super effective for many bugs. But, SVB come out late July here, and I was caring them AND bees in the bowls, so I removed the bowls in favor of the bees.

You can cover the squash with insect netting. This worked well, but need to hand pollinate or let in a bee or two under the netting.

You can plant a “trap crop” -SVB prefer things in the squash group that includes Hubbard squash ( mochata group?), and will preferentially attack them. Last year I inadvertently planted squash in this group (butterCUP squash) and they were preferentially attacked. But, butternut squash are in a different group, and are not preferred. One year I only had a couple of regular summer squash and butternut planted-the SVB did attack the butternut that year. This year I plan to use hubbard squash as a trap crop.
They got my butternut last year.
I'm going to try wrapping the stem in foil about 6 inches up and burying it a little, see if that helps at ALL.
====painted 60 stones, needed 71 ARGH.....I'll do 12 more tomorrow.
 
The borers come out early here. I have been lucky to get a few fruits before the plants wilt.

My mom used to slice the stem open to remove the borers, too, but there are too many here for me to do that, I've tried. I might try the pantyhose method this year (wrap the lower stem with pantyhose).
Wrapping with pantyhose is a genius idea. Any type of cloth would work I bet. Even my worn out Fruit of the Looms.

I wonder if kaolin clay sprayed on the stems would be effective?

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/pests/pesticides/kaolin-clay-insect-control.htm
 
I've decided that the Swiss Chard hates me. This is my first time growing it. I seeded it somewhere between 3/4 and 3/18 and, although it sprouted, it's hardly grown. I have one sprout that might be around 2 inches tall. The rest look sickly, tiny, and thin. Wondering if I should try again in a different container.... 🤔



seeds might be old. swiss chard likes humidity so water them from above or spray them with water. I had the same situation a few years ago. when the first chards matured I got the seeds and next time I planted them I had plenty of huge, nice looking plants.
 
Quick question I can't seem to find the answer to. How many feet away would it be safe to plant potatoes from the blueberry patch? All I get is "don't plant near each other." How close / far is "near?" Good grief! OK, I really need to wash the wee beasties right now. Thank you in advance for the answer to my question. LOL!



companion planting? just plant a row of something else between them to confuse the bugs.
 
A few days ago, we were told the tiller was going to be brought up today. This morning, we get a text, "No tiller today." So..... I guess I'm digging that last bed out by hand. Extending the fence is #1 on the list, though. I need to plant my potatoes 3 weeks ago at the latest... :oops:
Maybe next year I won't fall behind on everything....
 
I read about that method (pantyhose) and wondered if it would work, or just cause the SVB to lay their eggs higher on the stem.

We tried the stab and kill (and cover wound with moist dirt) method, but the damage was too great in each case and the plant did not survive.

I had really good luck with toothpicks. They do less damage to the plant. I would just stick the toothpick through the stem and worm, leave in place, and walk away. I used a flashlight to see where it was inside the stem without cutting anything.

Last year I didn't do anything to try to stop them, same with the regular squash bugs...I just enjoyed my harvest until they won. I still had the resistant plants in the end.
This year I planted a big assortment and plan to just see what happens again without aggressively trying to stop them. I may make a video showing how to use the toothpick method first though.

It's simple to do as long as you don't mind a bunch of toothpicks in your garden, lol.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom