What did you do in the garden today?

I plant dill and let some of my basil (grown in pots and kept indoors over the winter) bolt. That brings in hoverflies, which are pollinators as adults and eat aphids as babies.

I wish I could lure in more varieties of predatory insects; it’s a lot more convenient than having to stock up on Neem oil and very carefully spray when the good bugs aren’t around.
 
I plant dill and let some of my basil (grown in pots and kept indoors over the winter) bolt. That brings in hoverflies, which are pollinators as adults and eat aphids as babies.

I wish I could lure in more varieties of predatory insects; it’s a lot more convenient than having to stock up on Neem oil and very carefully spray when the good bugs aren’t around.
I've never been able to identify a good bug from a bad bug, so neem oil and bt it is. Anything I spray is at dusk so I don't hurt the bees, those I can identify, lol.
 
Shot day yesterday, so felt like queen of the slug people today. Allergies are already high here, which is ridiculous.
HOPE to spray trees tomorrow. We shall see if the winds are optimal in the morning when the temperature is. Otherwise, I'll try again Monday, when it's supposed to be 74. (good grief)
 
My winter melon leaves get ravished by aphids', powdery mildew and often times look like its dying, but it still kicks out new shoots and more winter melon that I can eat, so I just water and fertilize it and once in a while, I use a hose canister with soap to kill the aphid population.
Would dusting with DE help?
 
I plant dill and let some of my basil (grown in pots and kept indoors over the winter) bolt. That brings in hoverflies, which are pollinators as adults and eat aphids as babies.

I wish I could lure in more varieties of predatory insects; it’s a lot more convenient than having to stock up on Neem oil and very carefully spray when the good bugs aren’t around.
Ladybugs, maybe?
 
I have heard of using Hubbard as a trap crop for squash. I'll have to plant some mustard.


View attachment 4297924

THE SACRIFICIAL SHIELD.
You spend months nurturing your broccoli and cauliflower. Then, in April, the white butterflies arrive. Weeks later, your crop is a skeletonized ruin. Your instinct is to spray. Don't. Instead of chemical warfare, use biological deception. To save the Queen (your broccoli), you must offer a Pawn.

The Myth of "Random Attacks" We often think pests land on our vegetables by bad luck. In reality, specialists like the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae) and Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta spp.) navigate by smell. They are tracking specific volatile compounds called Isothiocyanates (mustard oils). The mistake gardeners make is planting a monoculture of broccoli, which creates a massive, singular scent plume that acts like a neon "EAT HERE" sign.

The Scientific Reality: Trap Cropping This technique is known in agroecology as Trap Cropping. Mustard (Brassica juncea) produces these volatile mustard oils in much higher concentrations than domesticated broccoli or cauliflower.

The Pull: To a pest, the mustard is "louder" and "tastier" than your main crop. It acts as a sink, drawing the pests away from the valuable vegetables.

The Evidence: Studies in Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata have shown that planting a perimeter of trap crops can significantly reduce oviposition (egg-laying) on the main cash crop. The pests land on the mustard, lay their eggs there, and leave your dinner alone.

Current Seasonal Behavior: The Pre-Emptive Strike Why talk about this in February? Because a trap only works if it is ready before the enemy arrives.

Phenological Timing: The Cabbage White Butterfly emerges from its chrysalis as soon as daytime temperatures consistently hit 50–60°F. If you wait until you see the butterfly to plant your mustard, you are too late.

Cold Tolerance: Mustard is incredibly cold-hardy. Sowing it now (in the South) or preparing the bed (in the North) ensures it is leafy and aromatic exactly when the first wave of pests wakes up.

Why This Matters Ecologically Trap cropping is a pillar of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). It replaces broad-spectrum pesticides—which kill beneficial pollinators and predators—with a plant that increases biodiversity. Plus, unlike a pesticide, you can eat the trap.

Practical Action: The "4x4 Protocol" Based on successful field trials, here is the specific density required to create an effective shield:

The Location: Choose a spot near your brass (cauliflower/cabbage) but not touching them. You want to lure pests to a nearby "island," not build a bridge to your crop.

The Density (Critical): Do not plant in neat rows. You need a jungle. For a 4x4 foot area, use a heavy hand—approx. 1/2 cup of seeds.

The "Zhuzh": Prepare the soil with 1 inch of aged compost. Scatter the seeds on top and lightly "zhuzh" (mix) them into the surface. Do not bury them deep; they need light to trigger germination.

The Maintenance: Water daily. In 3 days, they sprout. In 2 weeks, you have a dense green mat.

The Double Harvest:

Phase 1: Harvest the baby greens for yourself in month one (spicy salad).

Phase 2: Let the plants bolt (flower). This attracts pollinators, and the pests will congregate on the flowers/seed pods, leaving your broccoli pristine.

The Verdict Mustard is the bodyguard of the garden. It takes the hits so your cauliflower doesn't have to. Plant it thick. Plant it early. Eat the shield.

Scientific References & Evidence
Mechanism: Hokkanen, H. M. T. (1991). Trap cropping in pest management. Annual Review of Entomology. (The foundational text on using attractive plants to divert pests).

Chemical Ecology: Renwick, J. A. A. (2002). The chemical world of crucivores: lures, treats and traps. Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata. (Explains the role of glucosinolates in attracting Pieris rapae).

Field Application: University of Massachusetts Extension. "Using Trap Crops for Management of Diamondback Moth and Flea Beetles."

Cultural Control: Parker, J. E., et al. (2013). (Studies on companion planting efficiency).
I cover all brassicas with agri fabric and it works for me.
 
Would dusting with DE help?
Not sure, I do fine without it. One vine produces more winter melon (Wax Gourd) I can eat with hardly any effort. However, I do have to tie the stem of the winter melon with a para cord to support the weight and cover the young melons with a fine mesh bag right after the flower falls off to prevent the bees from stinging it.
 
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I have heard of using Hubbard as a trap crop for squash. I'll have to plant some mustard.


View attachment 4297924

THE SACRIFICIAL SHIELD.
You spend months nurturing your broccoli and cauliflower. Then, in April, the white butterflies arrive. Weeks later, your crop is a skeletonized ruin. Your instinct is to spray. Don't. Instead of chemical warfare, use biological deception. To save the Queen (your broccoli), you must offer a Pawn.

The Myth of "Random Attacks" We often think pests land on our vegetables by bad luck. In reality, specialists like the Cabbage White Butterfly (Pieris rapae) and Flea Beetle (Phyllotreta spp.) navigate by smell. They are tracking specific volatile compounds called Isothiocyanates (mustard oils). The mistake gardeners make is planting a monoculture of broccoli, which creates a massive, singular scent plume that acts like a neon "EAT HERE" sign.

The Scientific Reality: Trap Cropping This technique is known in agroecology as Trap Cropping. Mustard (Brassica juncea) produces these volatile mustard oils in much higher concentrations than domesticated broccoli or cauliflower.

The Pull: To a pest, the mustard is "louder" and "tastier" than your main crop. It acts as a sink, drawing the pests away from the valuable vegetables.

The Evidence: Studies in Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata have shown that planting a perimeter of trap crops can significantly reduce oviposition (egg-laying) on the main cash crop. The pests land on the mustard, lay their eggs there, and leave your dinner alone.

Current Seasonal Behavior: The Pre-Emptive Strike Why talk about this in February? Because a trap only works if it is ready before the enemy arrives.

Phenological Timing: The Cabbage White Butterfly emerges from its chrysalis as soon as daytime temperatures consistently hit 50–60°F. If you wait until you see the butterfly to plant your mustard, you are too late.

Cold Tolerance: Mustard is incredibly cold-hardy. Sowing it now (in the South) or preparing the bed (in the North) ensures it is leafy and aromatic exactly when the first wave of pests wakes up.

Why This Matters Ecologically Trap cropping is a pillar of Integrated Pest Management (IPM). It replaces broad-spectrum pesticides—which kill beneficial pollinators and predators—with a plant that increases biodiversity. Plus, unlike a pesticide, you can eat the trap.

Practical Action: The "4x4 Protocol" Based on successful field trials, here is the specific density required to create an effective shield:

The Location: Choose a spot near your brassicas (cauliflower/cabbage) but not touching them. You want to lure pests to a nearby "island," not build a bridge to your crop.

The Density (Critical): Do not plant in neat rows. You need a jungle. For a 4x4 foot area, use a heavy hand—approx. 1/2 cup of seeds.

The "Zhuzh": Prepare the soil with 1 inch of aged compost. Scatter the seeds on top and lightly "zhuzh" (mix) them into the surface. Do not bury them deep; they need light to trigger germination.

The Maintenance: Water daily. In 3 days, they sprout. In 2 weeks, you have a dense green mat.

The Double Harvest:

Phase 1: Harvest the baby greens for yourself in month one (spicy salad).

Phase 2: Let the plants bolt (flower). This attracts pollinators, and the pests will congregate on the flowers/seed pods, leaving your broccoli pristine.

The Verdict Mustard is the bodyguard of the garden. It takes the hits so your cauliflower doesn't have to. Plant it thick. Plant it early. Eat the shield.

Scientific References & Evidence
Mechanism: Hokkanen, H. M. T. (1991). Trap cropping in pest management. Annual Review of Entomology. (The foundational text on using attractive plants to divert pests).

Chemical Ecology: Renwick, J. A. A. (2002). The chemical world of crucivores: lures, treats and traps. Entomologia Experimentalis et Applicata. (Explains the role of glucosinolates in attracting Pieris rapae).

Field Application: University of Massachusetts Extension. "Using Trap Crops for Management of Diamondback Moth and Flea Beetles."

Cultural Control: Parker, J. E., et al. (2013). (Studies on companion planting efficiency).


I have a lot of wild mustard around. does it help?
 

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