What is the easiest roof to install?

[U_Stormcrow]

I like overhangs as well. So for a building that is 8x12 with a roof that is 12x10 (ie, 4 foot and 2 foot overhang) how far would you space the rafters and purlins?

Looking at the photos you put up, it looks like you used 2x4s for the rafters and 2x6s for the purlins? But I can only guess your spacing so I can't figure out the quantity of lumber I need for my 12x10 roof. (the 12 foot is the part that will slope, so I'll need enough 12 foot panels to cover the 10 foot width)

I'm about to place a rather huge order and want to make sure my math/quantity is right.

Because I'm in FL, and have no snow loads, I can cheat. I used 2x6s for the ridge pole, and the top on which they rest. 2x4s for the rafters. Rafters are set 2' oc. The purlins are 1x4s, instead of my normal 5/4x6PTs, and also 2' oc

My shed was 12x10 (roof) - I used 2x4s, set 2'oc. The purlins were 5/4x6PT ("Deck boards") also 2' oc. Like the goat house, its not intended to be walked upon. 2x6s would have been wiser.

 

[3KillerBs]

Okay. That slope will be the same as mine, 12 foot total w 4 being overhang. So it looks like you used 7 purlins which puts it at 2 feet.

12 rafters? Don't know distance so don't know spacing. Did you overhang roofing off the sides at all? If so did you support it? I can't tell from that photo

The full coop is 16x16 with approximate 2-foot overhangs on all but that one, 4-foot section, which shades the south wall.

That's actually bigger than it needs to be, but DH didn't want to have to cut the metal and I liked having the extra overhang for storage.

Here are some more photos of the framing. All the weight is carried on the posts via the big cross beams with the overhangs cantilevered (if I understand the term correctly (someone correct me if I don't)).

We get very little snowload very rarely, but over-engineering is a family habit.

 

[affacat]

Because I'm in FL, and have no snow loads, I can cheat. I used 2x6s for the ridge pole, and the top on which they rest. 2x4s for the rafters. Rafters are set 2' oc. The purlins are 1x4s, instead of my normal 5/4x6PTs, and also 2' oc

My shed was 12x10 (roof) - I used 2x4s, set 2'oc. The purlins were 5/4x6PT ("Deck boards") also 2' oc. Like the goat house, its not intended to be walked upon. 2x6s would have been wiser.

Oh wow, you use pressure treated? Any reason? Was thinking I could get away with untreated but if condensation or something is an issue...

We have lots of rain and a snowstorm once every couple years, but enough to plan for

 

[affacat]

The full coop is 16x16 with approximate 2-foot overhangs on all but that one, 4-foot section, which shades the south wall.

That's actually bigger than it needs to be, but DH didn't want to have to cut the metal and I liked having the extra overhang for storage.

Here are some more photos of the framing. All the weight is carried on the posts via the big cross beams with the overhangs cantilevered (if I understand the term correctly (someone correct me if I don't)).

View attachment 3112160View attachment 3112163View attachment 3112164View attachment 3112168View attachment 3112175View attachment 3112177View attachment 3112183

We get very little snowload very rarely, but over-engineering is a family habit.

Ok, I see how you did the overhang. You joined the rafters at the top but not bottom, and used that top plus the purlins to 'freehang' an end rafter.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Oh wow, you use pressure treated? Any reason? Was thinking I could get away with untreated but if condensation or something is an issue...

We have lots of rain and a snowstorm once every couple years, but enough to plan for

I used PT because it was the same price as 1x4s at the time. Its not required. But at the same price, it was a little extra insurance against a leak.

 

[affacat]

Ok. Doing the math. 12x14 roof.

So I need 8 rafters to cover 14 feet width
So 8: 2x4x12

Purlins I'll need to cover 14 feet (two 8 footers per purlin) 7 times.
So 14: 2x6x8

Then that board on the top side of the rafter (don't know name).. 14 feet, so need
2: 2x4x8

 

[affacat]

I used PT because it was the same price as 1x4s at the time. Its not required. But at the same price, it was a little extra insurance against a leak.

Makes sense. I think I have the roof worked out (post above). Just need to find a source for 5v, my lumber source only sells corrugated metal.

 

[3KillerBs]

Ok, I see how you did the overhang. You joined the rafters at the top but not bottom, and used that top plus the purlins to 'freehang' an end rafter.

I don't understand framing like my DH does, but everything has hurricane ties for extra security.

We don't get snow load really, but we do get hurricanes from time to time.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Hurricane ties are why I could skip birds mouths/birds beaks. They are GLORIOUS. Even if you don't get hurricanes, and you don't get much snow - if you are in tornado alley, or don't need to google the definition of "Derecho"? HURRICANE TIES.

 

[affacat]

In searching for 5v, one supply store suggested a local manufacturer. Did some more research think I'm going with

https://metallionroofingandsiding.com/metal-profile/magna-rib/

They offer it in metal and poly so Im thinking one or two poly for light. The profile should be an easy install and it's for direct install on purlins.

Thanks all!