What is the easiest roof to install?

[affacat]

So I've built several coops, and always used corrugated roofing and found it easy to install...

Until I started building 8x12 coops. At this point, I found the various difficulties to exponentially increase and absolutely hated working with them. My last one also had issues with minor leaks (first time for this) that were an absolute pain to fix (since I could no longer see rafters and couldn't put any weight on corrugation)

Any ideas for a super simple roof? Ive never shingled before, though I've watched vids on it... Its within my skill reach, but it certainly doesn't look fun or particularly easy (though they make it look easy with practice).

The roof I'm building is flat (but sloped) not an A frame.

 

[3KillerBs]

We found metal roofing set on purlins with self-tapping screws remarkably easy to handle.

Roofing discussion on our build thread start's here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/post-24319159

There are detailed photos later on in the thread.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Metal roofing is the easiest thing for a non-roofer to do quickly and correctly, whether on purlins or attached to decking. No roof should have less than a 3/12 pitch, unless you are willing to go with some rather more expensive materials and additional maintenance. ANY roof you build, you should be able to walk (in places) on.

For a host of reasons, with metal roofing, I prefer the "5v profile", rather than the "wave profile" - but two of those reasons involve leaks and walking on it.

and as others have said, climate matters. I'm just nodding agreement.

 

[3KillerBs]

So 5v based on a quick check? Didn't check out your whole thread yet (it's long), but this seems like a possibility. Will need to price it out.

DH had the precise specs, but I think so -- we had consulted with Stormcrow (being in a very similar climate).

OH YES! There is no "wave", you can put the screws thru the flats, get good contact with the rubber washers, minimal movement of the roof. Even an idiot could do it.

DeWalt 20v impact driver and self-tapping screws obtained from the roofing manufacturer.

They worked across from one end to the other, never having to actually get on top of unsecured roofing panels, but we *can* walk on it if we need to.

 

[affacat]

Do you have to worry about snow load where you live? A flat roof

Will respond to your entire post but I noticed I confused a few of you by accident.

Roof is definitely sloped. I misused flat... I meant a single plane, not an A frame. But there is still a nice slope to shed weather

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Yeah, I'd have no issue doing this. No birdsmouths, flat purlins.

So 5v would be the easiest with this roofing?

OH YES! There is no "wave", you can put the screws thru the flats, get good contact with the rubber washers, minimal movement of the roof. Even an idiot could do it. I've done it three times, and the only time I've had a leak (we average 1"+ rainfall per week) is where I missed the purlin entirely. [In my defense, I was putting in screws with a hammer and a ratchetting screwdriver late afternoon/early evening, before we had power, as a Tstorm opened up on me - trying to get the shed built, so we could put the generator in it and have power...]

 

[U_Stormcrow]

TO clarify. I am NOT an expert. I am too heat sensitive (and terrified of heights) to be a roofer. I do know where to look things up, read a code, check a span table, and by necessity, I have shingled sheveral sheds, poolhouses, and other smallish-buildings. I have metal roofed some 16x10s, 16x12s, 20x44, and a little 8x12. and once upon a time, I did some drafting.

One of our fellow posters is currently building this from something I sketched up. Coop with porch, covered run.

My main concerns are "does it work" and "can a (relatively) unskilled person do it".
/edit and I see I screen capped an odd angle, so the floor of the run seems to continue out the side of the roof - sorry about that.

 

[3KillerBs]

a half inch mismeasurement on the rafters which still ticks me off.

You probably don't remember from the Neuchickenstein build thread, but one post was 3-4" out of line.

DH was waffling about replanting it.

I asked him if he'd be able to look at the coop for the next 20 years without thinking about it.

He moved the post.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I am at a loss as to why you built it as you did. Possibly Mfg Instructions for the polycarbonate roof?

I did this (inside view) - Framing went up for the walls, rafters laid in place and hurricane tied down (note, no birdsmouths - faster. Not nearly as strong, but its just chickens and goats inside, no need to build like a people house).

Purlins laid on top and screwed down. 5v roof panels laid on those and screwed down. I can walk on it, (on the purlins), my goats walk all over it...)

 

[U_Stormcrow]

2x4s for a span under 6', or an unsupported overhang no more than 12'.
2x6s for spans of 10', unsupported overhang around 18"
2x8s for spans of 13', unsupported overhang around 24"

That's all for #2 pine lumber, and minimal loading (20 psf live loads) on 24" spacing.

You can add about 2' to each of the spans if your spacing is 16" oc.

20psf will allow you to walk on it, and is the equivalent of about 14" of perfect snow, or about half that of wet heavy snow.

If you have real snow loads, consult an engineer or consult the tables (saving money, taking your chances).