What is the easiest roof to install?

[Acre4Me]

Rubber roof sheet. Not sure if it needs a top layer, but it certainly needs a bottom layer. But, that’s not a huge piece…might be able to find some extra from a roofing business or off-cuts.

There is rubberized roof paint that some we people use for their coop floors, but it’s roof paint. Think it needs a top layer too, but possible option.

Some people have even used plastic/woven feed bags overlapping generously, to get them through several months or longer. But might not be a good option for a flat roof since water won’t be shed very fast.

We have metal roofing over our run, which is 50’x 10’, but it slants so the metal was 12’ long. It has supports beneath it (but not a solid sheet of anything) and has been walked on before without issue. Our coop roof is plywood with paper then shingles.

 

[mowin]

Do you have to worry about snow load where you live? A flat roof would really have to be well built and strong where I live to handle our snow loads. Also, flat roofs might be more prone to leaks. If you do go with a flat roof, spend the extra money and get a good rubber sheet to cover the roof.

I think the easiest roof to build and maintain is a slanted roof. Again, if you have snow load concerns, find out what slant you need for your location. One thing I really liked about a slanted roof on a chicken coop is that you can put all kinds of ventilation on the high side of the slant, and warm air and moisture will rise and exhaust naturally on the high side.

I built a gambrel roof (like a barn) on my chicken coop, and I really think that style has many advantages. You get a much larger volume of air that rises up into that gambrel space and exhausts at the top. Some people will make part of the gambrel roof as storage, because there is just so much more space in that design. However, it was the most complicated roof I have personally built and I would not call it easy. If you have some skills, then a gambrel roof is a great option.

Stock google pic of a gambrel roof shed construction...

View attachment 3110393

I didn't catch the "flat" part. Hopefully the OP is thinking shed roof which is flat, but with a pitch...

 

[3KillerBs]

I like a underlayment when using metal roofing to remove any chance of condensation forming on the underside, and dripping in the coop.

This is a great example of how climate matters.

For me, condensation is unlikely to occur both because the necessary conditions are rare in my climate AND because it's an open air design,

AND if it did occur, it wouldn't be a problem as long as it didn't drip right on the roosts, again because it's an open air design with deep litter.

BUT for you or anyone else who has a normal coop in a climate subject to strong swings of temperature and humidity and, especially warm, wet days followed by cold nights^, it's really critical to prevent condensation.

^I remember snow-melting season being really bad for that when I lived up north.

However, it was the most complicated roof I have personally built and I would not call it easy.

Gambrels are also difficult to ventilate properly unless very well-designed. Most people don't put that window up as high as you did.

 

[affacat]

We found metal roofing set on purlins with self-tapping screws remarkably easy to handle.

Roofing discussion on our build thread start's here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/post-24319159

There are detailed photos later on in the thread.

So 5v based on a quick check? Didn't check out your whole thread yet (it's long), but this seems like a possibility. Will need to price it out.

 

[affacat]

climate wise I'm in Oregon. Rainy seasons, rare snowstorms.

I have some sheets of used plywood I could destaple and denail before applying a rolled rubber or other roll on solution.

That said I also like the idea of just putting something like 5v directly onto rafters... IF I could avoid doing purlins (I hate purlins lol).

Honestly, my last 2 roofing experiences (both on 8x12 buildings with 12x2 corrugated pieces were so unfun I'm pretty much willing to ignore budget for ease of install.

The building has significant ventilation, I usually hardware cloth the triangle between high and low wall.

Ventilation picture and an example of what I want to avoid ever doing again. I used 12 footers to allow a significant overhang so nestboxes don't get rained on and we can grab eggs out of the rain. I've done this roof twice,.never again

 

[Alagirl]

Does anyone know how rubber roof sheet compares to 'rolled roofing'?

https://www.thespruce.com/rolled-roofing-1821945

That had been my best find online before asking. I like that it rolls on. But rubber does sound better than the rolled roofing in theory.

as I understand it - and it has been many years since I saw rolled roofing - the rubber is an underlayer to prevent leaks.
Roll roofing is that: One big old shingle on a roll.

 

[affacat]

I am at a loss as to why you built it as you did. Possibly Mfg Instructions for the polycarbonate roof?

I did this (inside view) - Framing went up for the walls, rafters laid in place and hurricane tied down (note, no birdsmouths - faster. Not nearly as strong, but its just chickens and goats inside, no need to build like a people house).

Purlins laid on top and screwed down. 5v roof panels laid on those and screwed down. I can walk on it, (on the purlins), my goats walk all over it...)

View attachment 3110670

Yep. Followed the diagrams. I did birdsmouths on the rafter (ugh), and then I had to put purlins between the rafter, not on top like you did (double ugh). They wanted me to essentially screw down the edges every x inches so I needed the entire length of the rafter to drive screws, rather than just at the purlins.

It was nightmare fuel.

Edit - it's possible the directions didn't have purlins at all, just rafters? But once I built it they clearly sagged without purlin support. It's been a year. I probably could have doubleed the rafters instead but that would require another batch of 2x12s instead of scrap purlins.

 

[affacat]

Here' the external framing - about 4 hours of work, alone.

View attachment 3110689

Yeah, I'd have no issue doing this. No birdsmouths, flat purlins.

So 5v would be the easiest with this roofing?

 

[gtaus]

But rubber does sound better than the rolled roofing in theory.

When I suggested using a rubber sheet on the roof, that was my understanding of a flat roof build. You have now clarified that you are building a slanted roof. IMHO, you don't need the more expensive rubber sheeting.

I actually was in a situation where I had to build a flat roof, and there the rubber sheeting was needed to prevent leaking. On a slanted roof, you should be able to get by with less expensive shingles or rolled shingles.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Is Galvalume Steel the same thing? Found some 3x12s on Lowe's for 53 a pop. Seems like a easier version of corrugated.

Given your experience what would you roof a 5x4 mini coop with? Too many projects going on! (We have 2 batches of chicks and 1 batch of turkeys growing up right now and we're rushing to get them all homed up asap. We thought we could re-home one of our flocks into an existing large coop to make room for the turkeys but they are too chicken brained to remember.

Glavalume is the method used to treat the steel. and I used 3x12s on my barn. Worked great. BETTER with two people. They can be unweildy otherwise.

and I like overhangs, so if I was doing a 5x4, I'd buy two 3x12 sheets and rip them in half, make a 6x6 roof for it.

Its my climate. Rains constantly.