What is the easiest roof to install?

[mowin]

5v would be my choice.
If you're using dimensional lumber from lumber yard, I'd go with 2x6 for a 12’ span. If using ruff cut, you might get away with 2x4. If it sags, you'll have to add a center beam with supports.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Yeah, I'd have no issue doing this. No birdsmouths, flat purlins.

So 5v would be the easiest with this roofing?

OH YES! There is no "wave", you can put the screws thru the flats, get good contact with the rubber washers, minimal movement of the roof. Even an idiot could do it. I've done it three times, and the only time I've had a leak (we average 1"+ rainfall per week) is where I missed the purlin entirely. [In my defense, I was putting in screws with a hammer and a ratchetting screwdriver late afternoon/early evening, before we had power, as a Tstorm opened up on me - trying to get the shed built, so we could put the generator in it and have power...]

 

[U_Stormcrow]

2x4s for a span under 6', or an unsupported overhang no more than 12'.
2x6s for spans of 10', unsupported overhang around 18"
2x8s for spans of 13', unsupported overhang around 24"

That's all for #2 pine lumber, and minimal loading (20 psf live loads) on 24" spacing.

You can add about 2' to each of the spans if your spacing is 16" oc.

20psf will allow you to walk on it, and is the equivalent of about 14" of perfect snow, or about half that of wet heavy snow.

If you have real snow loads, consult an engineer or consult the tables (saving money, taking your chances).

 

[gtaus]

But rubber does sound better than the rolled roofing in theory.

When I suggested using a rubber sheet on the roof, that was my understanding of a flat roof build. You have now clarified that you are building a slanted roof. IMHO, you don't need the more expensive rubber sheeting.

I actually was in a situation where I had to build a flat roof, and there the rubber sheeting was needed to prevent leaking. On a slanted roof, you should be able to get by with less expensive shingles or rolled shingles.

 

[3KillerBs]

So 5v based on a quick check? Didn't check out your whole thread yet (it's long), but this seems like a possibility. Will need to price it out.

DH had the precise specs, but I think so -- we had consulted with Stormcrow (being in a very similar climate).

OH YES! There is no "wave", you can put the screws thru the flats, get good contact with the rubber washers, minimal movement of the roof. Even an idiot could do it.

DeWalt 20v impact driver and self-tapping screws obtained from the roofing manufacturer.

They worked across from one end to the other, never having to actually get on top of unsecured roofing panels, but we *can* walk on it if we need to.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

TO clarify. I am NOT an expert. I am too heat sensitive (and terrified of heights) to be a roofer. I do know where to look things up, read a code, check a span table, and by necessity, I have shingled sheveral sheds, poolhouses, and other smallish-buildings. I have metal roofed some 16x10s, 16x12s, 20x44, and a little 8x12. and once upon a time, I did some drafting.

One of our fellow posters is currently building this from something I sketched up. Coop with porch, covered run.

My main concerns are "does it work" and "can a (relatively) unskilled person do it".
/edit and I see I screen capped an odd angle, so the floor of the run seems to continue out the side of the roof - sorry about that.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I'm not going to identify who that poster is, but they do good work.

Next step is purlins, and then I believe they will also be using 5v style metal panels.

 

[affacat]

OH YES! There is no "wave", you can put the screws thru the flats, get good contact with the rubber washers, minimal movement of the roof. Even an idiot could do it. I've done it three times, and the only time I've had a leak (we average 1"+ rainfall per week) is where I missed the purlin entirely. [In my defense, I was putting in screws with a hammer and a ratchetting screwdriver late afternoon/early evening, before we had power, as a Tstorm opened up on me - trying to get the shed built, so we could put the generator in it and have power...]

Is Galvalume Steel the same thing? Found some 3x12s on Lowe's for 53 a pop. Seems like a easier version of corrugated.

Given your experience what would you roof a 5x4 mini coop with? Too many projects going on! (We have 2 batches of chicks and 1 batch of turkeys growing up right now and we're rushing to get them all homed up asap. We thought we could re-home one of our flocks into an existing large coop to make room for the turkeys but they are too chicken brained to remember.

 

[3KillerBs]

Given your experience what would you roof a 5x4 mini coop with?

I am a total convert to metal roof for ease of handling.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Is Galvalume Steel the same thing? Found some 3x12s on Lowe's for 53 a pop. Seems like a easier version of corrugated.

Given your experience what would you roof a 5x4 mini coop with? Too many projects going on! (We have 2 batches of chicks and 1 batch of turkeys growing up right now and we're rushing to get them all homed up asap. We thought we could re-home one of our flocks into an existing large coop to make room for the turkeys but they are too chicken brained to remember.

Glavalume is the method used to treat the steel. and I used 3x12s on my barn. Worked great. BETTER with two people. They can be unweildy otherwise.

and I like overhangs, so if I was doing a 5x4, I'd buy two 3x12 sheets and rip them in half, make a 6x6 roof for it.

Its my climate. Rains constantly.