What kind of heat is good for the coop?

[aran]

chickbea...i didnt know that, thanks for the info, looks like I will need a water heater after all.

 

[ivan3]

We usually have a couple 2-3wk. runs of pretty bitter cold (highs around 5-10 degrees). We use a heat lamp in the coop during the day (when door is propped open), provides additional light, but results in only a ten degree difference in temp. We keep a 25w in the turkey shed (so they get a bit of light) but it doesn't impact temp. in the slightest.

Our main concern is protection from wind (days with -30 windchills) and from excess humidity build up in coop/shed (frostbite, anyone?). We keep tarps up on the west side fencing (prevailing wind) and have vents (intake/out) on the south side walls.

The turks are very cold hardy, chooks aren't slouches either.
We can listen to the chooks on the monitor and the only time any whining goes on is when I screw up and don't completely close/cover their door (drafts verboten!). We use an old indoor/outdoor carpet over door - can just open door in morning - slip the carpet over opening, clamp up the corner, and they have a little hole to sneak in and out of without admittance of too much breeze.

Oh, we use heated dog water bowls for both the turks and chooks (carried a lot of water the first winter).

 

[McGoo]

Greg,
I explained the 'false ceiling' to my DH and he thought up an idea... use a platform to place an insulated false ceiling on for the cold winter as you stated to keep in the heat, and then pull out the ceiling once it gets warm and have the wire mesh triangular vents on the sides exposed for spring/summer ventilation. I'm sure they'll be tweaking, but I think it's probably the best of both worlds.

Colleen

 

[greginshasta]

Quote:
Ya, that's largely what I have in mind. I'm going to create a ceiling over the coop portion of the shed we are building at around 5' or so. That ceiling will be framed strong enough to walk upon. A sheet of plywood will be removable for the warm months, and closed for the winter. This operable section will be 3-4' deep, and the rest of the "false ceiling" (about 6-7' deep since it's a 10x12 shed) will be permanent.

In the permanent section I will create storage since there will be nearly 8' between there and the peak of the roof. This will act as a loft where lots of supplies and garden stuff can be tucked away. This may be clear as mud, but I should have photos soon. Exterior siding, HOPEFULLY, goes up tomorrow. Pray for rain so that Handy Andy doesn't have work from his day job and will come up here to work on the coop.

 

[2mnypets]

Body heat is the best. No chance for a fire and they've been doing it for hundreds of years.

 

[SeaChick]

Also, regarding "let them eat snow".... I don't know about where you live, but here we have lots and lots of times when it's definitely cold enough to freeze water, but the ground is bare. Could be like that for weeks at a time. i don't think chickens would survive without heated, or frequently changed water. Also there are times when the snow has such a thick crust of ice on it you could walk on it and not break it.... could chix chip through? I'd seriously urge providing a heated water source, or, at least bringing fresh warm water a few times a day......

 

[McGoo]

SeaChick
Non-issue... I am absolutely providing liquid water! We probably don't get as cold as ME, but there can be long periods of time when it's really cold and there is no snow and/or it's crusty stuff.
I haven't decided whether to use the heated dog dish or the warmer tile that I showed before.

I think my DH will set up a thermostatic control for the water for approx 35 degrees. Seems that the only ones he could find at home depot only went down to 45 degrees. We're still looking.

And now all we need is relatively clear weather tomorrow so we can continue to work on the coop!

Colleen

 

[hinkjc]

The cookie tin water heater works really well for keeping waterers unfrozen. We use those for all of our waterers, except our turkeys who get a heated dog dish. I don't use the heated dog dish for a couple reasons with chickens (altho it could be done, I don't want any risks). I feel it has an opportunity for accidents (drowning banties, fire due to open heat element underneath the base, and frozen wattles that dip inside). The tins are very easy to make yourself. If you don't have the skills, order some from someone who does. They make your life really easy and you don't have to worry about changing waterers out or adding warm water to melt them.

Regardless of what type of heater base you choose, please use hollywood block or bricks to keep it away from bedding which could catch fire. And careful not to put it too close to chickens.

If your plan is to alternate wateres once they freeze, don't fill them. They will crack, expand and so on. Only fill half full or less in frigid temps and plan where you will put it to thaw once you exchange, as there is a chance of leaks.

Lots of good info on this post and a great opportunity for others to decide what will work best for them and to look at some new ideas.

Jody

 

[aran]

hey jody im interested to hear more about the cookie tin heater...what is it?

 

[ozark hen]

We converted two rooms in an extremely old house that had an upstairs, my dh used foam board on the ceiling of the outside room and insulated the outside walls and the north walls, that is all the insulation he used. We use the deep litter method and it will be cozy in there. Only plan on using a reg. light bulb in the small room for any sick/baby chicks or ducks. No plan on using any other heat. We have managed to stop all drafts which we feel is more important than heating. Amish live all around us and they never use heat..I believe you can just use your own good common sense and go from there. Great advice from everyone. I, too, am interested in the cookie tin heater...never heard of it and would like to have some knowledge of it.