What Rabbits Do You Have? Show Off Your Rabbits Here!

Coolest Rabbit Breed Out Of These?

  • Holland Lop

    Votes: 108 21.3%
  • English Spot

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • American Fuzzy Lop

    Votes: 11 2.2%
  • Mini Rex/Rex

    Votes: 107 21.1%
  • New Zealand

    Votes: 95 18.7%
  • Polish

    Votes: 13 2.6%
  • English Lop

    Votes: 33 6.5%
  • Mini Satins/Satins

    Votes: 14 2.8%
  • Lionhead

    Votes: 112 22.1%

  • Total voters
    507
Every show-quality Holland Lop has the dwarfing gene. In fact, it is rare for a Holland to be within the weight limits of the standard, and not have the dwarfing gene. Some Hollands that are oversized have it too - when you know the breed well, you learn to recognize the proportions that signal it. This is also true with Netherland Dwarfs, Dwarf Hotots, Mini Rex, Jersey Woolies, and a number of other dwarf breeds.

If you want to breed quality Hollands (or any dwarf breed) you have to work with the dwarfing gene. As I said. it is a lethal gene, so a bunny that gets it from both of its parents dies within a few days of birth. Very nearly all of the Hollands that weigh less than the maximum weight listed in the standard have one copy of the dwarfing gene, and one of the regular growth gene. Breed two of these together, and some babies will get the dwarfing gene from one parent, and the regular growth gene from the other. Those are "true dwarfs," and will most likely grow up to be within the acceptable weigh range. Some babies will get the dwarfing gene from both parents; they die. Some babies will get the normal growth gene from both parents, they are the "false dwarfs." They will be a bit oversized at maturity, and have longer proportions than the true dwarfs.

Breeding a true dwarf to a false dwarf will get you some babies that are true dwarfs, and some that are false dwarfs. All of the babies will have a chance at living, though that means one parent may be pedigreed, but isn't registered (if that sort of thing is important to you).

Breeding false dwarf to false dwarf only gives you false dwarf babies, that normally can't be registered and can't be shown. You might run into the occasional false dwarf that comes from very small stock and just squeaks in under the weight limit, but the longer proportions will mean that it doesn't do well on the show table.

Well that's why I know my Holland can't be shown. She's the biggest of the 4 I have. But she's a great brood doe. I'm really curious now to see how this frosty doe turns out. They were all out playing in the snow yesterday....



 
The Holland Lop is one of the breeds that uses the dwarfing gene to get the "ideal" animal described in the breed standard.The dwarfing gene is a dominant gene, which means if a rabbit inherits it, you will see the results. A rabbit with the dwarfing gene has short ears, short legs, a shorter, rounder head, and a short back. A rabbit of the same breed that doesn't have the dwarfing gene is proportionately longer in all respects, and weighs perhaps a pound more than one that does. Unfortunately, the dwarfing gene is also a lethal gene, which means that if a bunny inherits it from both parents, it dies (usually within about 3 days of birth). We call the babies with two copies of the dwarfing gene "peanuts." Peanuts are generally only about 2/3 the size of the normal kits in the litter, and have oddly shaped heads and an underdeveloped look to their back ends. From your description, it sounds like your doe doesn't have the dwarfing gene; we call such animals "false dwarfs" or "brood does." They aren't showable, being larger than the standard allows, but because they don't have the dwarfing gene, they can't pass it on to their babies.  When bred to a buck that has the dwarfing gene (and it sounds like your buck has it), they can produce dwarf babies, but they don't produce peanuts. Brood does usually produce a few more babies per litter than their true dwarf counterparts.

If the doe you kept back has the "true dwarf" proportions, she most likely has the dwarfing gene. If you breed her to a buck that has the dwarfing gene, some of the babies will probably be peanuts, whether the buck is related to her or not. Be prepared; peanuts are one of the problems one has to deal with when breeding dwarf breeds. 



Great explanation. This site helped me so much when I had an unexpected litter. Here is a foto of my normal kit next to the peanut. The peanut shrunk as the normal kit grew until it died on day 4.
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Day 1
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Day 2
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Day 3

As perspective, the surviving kit next to it has the dwarf gene and is a true mini rex.
 
Man, I am really kicking myself over and over again for not being 100% prepared.

The baby is pretty strong, but I don't think momma has been feeding it. It's belly wasn't full this morning. Could she not be in milk?
 
It can be really hard for a single kit to stimulate the mother to milk.

You can try force-nursing (better than formula for the kits) by turning the mother rabbit on her back, massaging the tummy with your fingertips to imitate kits massaging her tummy with their paws, and then put the kit on a nipple to nurse while massaging. Try one of the higher nipples for this. Single kits normally don't make it because they can't get the milk flowing because their little paws can't stimulate the milk on their own. Mom will stop producing milk entirely pretty quick (1-2 days) if you don't stimulate her into milk and the kit can't on it's own. After that there's only using formula as an option.
 
It can be really hard for a single kit to stimulate the mother to milk.

You can try force-nursing (better than formula for the kits) by turning the mother rabbit on her back, massaging the tummy with your fingertips to imitate kits massaging her tummy with their paws, and then put the kit on a nipple to nurse while massaging. Try one of the higher nipples for this. Single kits normally don't make it because they can't get the milk flowing because their little paws can't stimulate the milk on their own. Mom will stop producing milk entirely pretty quick (1-2 days) if you don't stimulate her into milk and the kit can't on it's own. After that there's only using formula as an option.
Alright, well we tried that. The baby seemed to get a little milk (his tummy was a bit more full than before) but stopped nursing after awhile.
 
Alright, well we tried that. The baby seemed to get a little milk (his tummy was a bit more full than before) but stopped nursing after awhile. 
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This was when the doe was still feeding.

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When the doe wasn't feeding anymore the belly went flat in 12 hours. I brought him in and started hand feeding and keeping inside. This is the belly with hand feeding

Check my previous post on hand feeding a single kit. I did what Chocolate suggested but my doe had already dried up for lack of stimulation. Kits should be really fat. If not, start hand feeding. Should look like a frog belly. If you have any questions after reading my previous post let me know. You can PM if you wish. You must act quickly. Saving my bunny was a wonderful experience.
 
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Ok, I think we're going to start hand-feeding. His belly is very small, and his skin seems three sizes too big. We have access to sheep and goat milk. Which would be better to mix in the formula?

I can't thank you all enough for your help! I'm hoping this little guy survives.
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Ok, I think we're going to start hand-feeding. His belly is very small, and his skin seems three sizes too big. We have access to sheep and goat milk. Which would be better to mix in the formula?

Yes, start right away. I heard goat milk. Use the formula you have. I had to use kitten milk but goat should be better. Rabbit milk is the richest of all mammals, that's the reason for a formula. That's why I had to add heavy cream. Use a syringe. Make the milk warm, not hot, to the touch. Place the syringe in the little space on the side of its mouth behind the front teeth. Squeeze a very small amount and wait for swallow. Make sure you are holding the kit upright facing you. Important: grease the rubber plunger with Vaseline otherwise it will suddenly squirt too much. I kept mine in a small pet carrier. I put in a heating pad on low covered by a couple if towels and hay. I changed the towels each day bec they get soiled. I fed every 12 hours. It was easy. Be sure to wipe it's bottom with a warm wet cotton ball to aid urination. There are videos on line that show you everything I'm telling you. I was googling constantly through the process. In the end it wasn't hard and very satisfying. I just was completely new to rabbits and the pregnancy was a surprise and I freaked out. Once I settled down and in routine it was easy. It really only takes a few minutes twice a day. Otherwise it does just fine if kept warm and not too hot. With the heating pad on low with towels on it, it would maintain a slightly warm nest. It was kept in the house in a bedroom, never cold.
 
The standard formula I've used for years is 1 can condensed milk, 1 egg yolk, and liquid bird vitamins.Mixed well. I've never tried it on rabbits but ground squirrels, kittens, puppies, and even week old mice been saved on it. Don't forget to clean its bottom with a warm wet paper towel every time you feed, the action stimulates their system to "go".Hope that helps.
 
@PrimroseMom1 @insanity

We're making the formula now.

1 can of condensed milk
3 tablespoons of goat milk (soon, haven't gone out to milk yet)
3 tablespoons of Karo corn syrup (is this step important? I don't know why, I just feel hesitant to put this in..)
1 egg yolk

Sounds good?
 

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