what to do about the gaps in corrugated roofing?

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Huh, you reeeeeeeaaaaallly don't want to go there with this crew
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Pat
 
Also from E Tenn, west of Knoxville. You might want to leave the gaps for ventilation. Lack of ventilation will cause moisture buildup which will enhance frostbite and also increase chance of lung problems with the birds.

Be sure to have the water where it cannot spill. Litter will get wet and moldy, metal roof might sweat too. I used two 3 ft long pieces of guttering leftover from the coop. I added end caps to them and mounted same on wall about 6" above floor. They can be removed easily, but cannot be tipped over. No poop in water, just a feather and a little straw now and then. I clean the water trough every 4 days or so. The feeder has never had to be cleaned. I did put a piece of vinyl siding above the two troughs and put a 2x2 under that at bottom to make it hang out to cover 2" of the 4" depth of the troughs. No perching on my troughs, so no pooping in them either.
 
Quote:
Huh, you reeeeeeeaaaaallly don't want to go there with this crew
wink.png



Pat

Sorry, I just can't help myself.
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Fastening
FABRAL can supply either screws or nails for fastening into dimension
lumber, with screws offering better pullout values. Woodgrip screws
for use with steel panels are galvanized and then coated with an
organic polymer for optimum corrosion resistance. For best results
with aluminum panels, use #300 series stainless steel Woodgrip
screws.
The FabrOseal
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galvanized ring-shank nail, with its premium long-life
silicone rubber gasket, assures a lasting seal and is the best nail
available for steel panels when screws are not desired.
The correct way to fasten steel panels with nails is to drive the nail
through the top of the rib so the washer is compressed securely
against the metal. Nail placement must be in the ribs for roofing
applications to minimize the potential for roof leaks. Over-driving the
nail can split the washer and dimple the metal, causing leaks.
Wood screws with combination metal and neoprene washers should be
installed in the flat area of the panel adjacent to the ribs, and
tightened such that the washer is compressed as illustrated above.
This will ensure a lasting, leak-proof seal.


http://www.fabral.com/installation/installation.pdf

http://www.fabral.com/product.php?id=3

http://www.fabral.com/downloads/FasteningSchedules.pdf
 
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Just using common sense, I would think nailing into the hilltop instead of the valleys would be less conducive to water leaks with corrugated roofing panels, sheet metal or fiberglass.
(Did somebody mention they didn't want to start this again?)
Tom
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The thinner gauge (29~31) corrugated panels tend to crack around the screws, when they are put through the ridges. The expansion and contraction causes some of this, but, walking around on it really causes problems. Nails don't seem to be as big a problem as the metal can "slide" up and down the nail without causing problems.

Can't say about the FG. I always use wiggle molding under those and screw through the ridges. Can't walk on that stuff anyway.

Check with the tech specs of whichever manufacturer you decide to use. It's their product and they know how it should be attached.

I'm just saying I've yet to run across a manufacturer that says to put the screws in the ridges. Pat seems to know of some. Maybe, she coud post a link to one of those companies' websites, so I could look at their installation instructions.
 
I have the Corrugated Polycarbonate Sheet roofing on my chicken coop...I installed it with a special screw and washer all in one on the hills of the roofing as per instructions from the company...I did also use the foam fillers which added strength...
 

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