They think it is a genetic mutation or "fault" (which in this case, is a good fault
) that has something to do with their nervous system. They think that certain things may trigger their 'condition' (such as maybe seeing other birds in the flock rolling, the others start to roll too?). Think of it as an involuntary nervous twitch, or a hiccup. It just happens while flying. I have had rollers roll just inches after taking off from the roof, so it doesn't have to be flying high or long.
Now I do think they can roll when they want. On early or breezy mornings, when my homers are full of energy and flying, some of the young birds like to 'play' where they cut up and zip around like spastic dive bombers. They'll often speed up with sudden bursts of energy, starting with flip or twist. It's really fun to watch, and of course they're only having fun. Homers aren't the only breed that do that, rollers can too, so I do believe they can do the occasional single roll or twist just for fun.