When to integrate chickens?

I'll chime in with what I've read on other posts; I'll be going through integration soon too.
#4 - Realizing that there may be some harassing/pecking/chasing going on during integration. I understand that I shouldn't intervene as it will disrupt the process. But, how much is too much? When do I step in?
Too much is a bird holding down another bird and pecking it. Too much is the fight going on long enough to cause injury or draw blood. Too much is several against one. Too much is not letting the little one go when she runs away, and chasing it non-stop. (Be sure that there are "out of sight" places for the littles to hide behind or get under. Be SURE it's not a dead end. A pallet leaned against the fence is what I've seen recommended.)

#3 - I really have no way to separate the 'baby chick feed' from the 'laying hen feed'. Therefore, is it OK to feed the new chicks the same laying feed as the older ones? Is it really that much of a big deal? (Again, the new chicks are 9-weeks old).
I'll be mixing them together until the starter feed runs out when the littles join the adults. Just be sure to have oyster shell (or crushed egg shells) and grit available for whomever needs them.

Since I don't free range, I don't have much to say about it.
 
So I got 18 new chickens, they are 13 weeks old, right now I have them in a pen that is connected to my big chicken's coop, I have it blocked off right now. They are already roosting in their pen, but now they need more shelter and better roosting space, so when can I integrate them with the big flock? They are already familiar with the older flock, they're both free range flocks. I was thinking I could just open the door where they can start going in the house, but would the older birds pick on them right now?
Yes you can open the door. There may be a bit of pecking, but if there is not blood or other alarming behavior let them work it out. Make sure that the younger birds have something to hide behind (but not a trap) or go up on. Make sure there are multiple places to eat and drink. The older the pullets get the more pecking occurs, in the future you may want to try earlier with a door to small for the older birds to get through.
 
Can you please post some pictures of your set up including the inside of the coop?
What is the size of the coop in sq ft with how many linear ft of roosting space? How many sq ft is the run? Do free range or let them out into a larger area?
I start integration at around 4-5 weeks when a broody hen isn't doing it for me
Here are some pictures of the coop, in the first pic, the red coop is the older chicken's coop, and the pen on the left is where I have the little chickens set up right now, I have an animal crate in their pen for shelter, and they also have a small roof to get under. The third pic is some of the roosts in the big chicken's coop, they also have a shelf to roost on.
Both flocks are free range all day, at night I put the older chickens up in the coop, and the younger chickens in the pen. I'm not sure on the sq ft.
 

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What I would suggest to both of you. More is better. Adding a single chick or two chicks is much harder than adding 5 or more. So that is good.

Adding a pallet up on cement blocks so that the pallet is just a slightly about the ground just high enough for the littles to get under it, and big girls can't. This allows the chicks and chickens to work this out on their terms not people terms. Put the chicks in the run, with the hens outside of the run. Let them explore first without being chased, after a couple of hours, you go in and give a mock chase, showing them how to escape under the pallet. Then close to dark, let the big girls in. After a week, just shut up where you had the chicks, and they will follow the others in.

Another idea, is a one way gate. This too, allows chicks to venture forth, and then retreat when the big girls get too much for them. If you have part of the run sectioned off, this can work well. Some people put in vertical openings, just narrow enough to keep big birds out, some people lift up the lower edge.

Do feed all flock layer, or chick feed to everything, and shell on the side.

Sometimes you do get a biddy that is heartless, if so, put her, wherever you had the chicks. Often times this bird will be a leader, and the others will follow her behavior.

The least you interfere, the sooner peace will be in the flock. I have had 3-4 week old chicks accepted at less than a week. However, they will remain a sub flock until they begin to lay. They will keep to themselves as a pretty distinctive group, and then one day you will go down, and they will be one flock. It is normal, and kind of neat.

Mrs K
 
So I got 18 new chickens, they are 13 weeks old, right now I have them in a pen that is connected to my big chicken's coop, I have it blocked off right now. They are already roosting in their pen, but now they need more shelter and better roosting space, so when can I integrate them with the big flock? They are already familiar with the older flock, they're both free range flocks. I was thinking I could just open the door where they can start going in the house, but would the older birds pick on them right now?
Open the door, and let nature take its course. I have 19 'teenagers' that are the offspring of my larger flock that I hatched in the incubator. They've been in the larger coop with their parents for several weeks now, and have been integrated. I introduced them at night, by placing them directly in the coop. Today, the first of the 19 went out with the older flock to eat and drink in the run... so I know that soon, the rest will follow. I've been feeding them inside the coop, while the older flock goes outside to their feeders and waterers in the morning. I've been doing this to ensure that they get enough food and water on their own, without the older flock coming in and scarfing down the teenagers' food.

The fact that they have been next to each other in adjoining pens/coop, so that they can see each other, means they've adjusted. There'll be a little bit of pecking as the pecking order gets re-established, but I would say that this will be minimal (from my own experience) and not fatal. You're good to go!
 
My Coop & Run Facts:

Coop is 8'x6'
Open floor plan with three nesting boxes
15 linear feet of roosting space (I plan on expanding that to 20)
The coop is on stilts (like a stilt home) with the floor of the coop 2' off of the ground
(I sound like a realtor!! LOL)

Run is 8' x 16' and completely roofed; they always have quite a bit of shade available
Run is attached to the coop (they have free run of both sections; underside of the coop and the run) and is WELL PROTECTED.
Under the coop is Chicago red brick to keep things clean and cool.
The rest of the coop is natural dirt/sand.
There are cypress stumps and branches for playing/roosting on and around

I have 7 hens which are 10 months old
I have 5 NEW chicks (hens) which are 2+ months old

The 5 new girls have their own section in the big girls coop and run. It is separated with chicken wire, in order to attempt the "see, no peck" integration / familiarization.
They have their own roost area, coop area, and run area (including their own private door and ramp). All areas have the "see, no peck" divider.

The little girls have been in the "see, no peck" set up (with the older girls) for 2+ weeks now.

I have been feeding treats to all 12 of the girls, in the run, all along the chicken wire of the "see no peck" divider. This way they can all eat together (yet separately).

I live on 2 1/2 acres of property for them to free-range when I am outside with them. Usually about 3-4 days a week, and for about 1-4 hours at a time.

The NEW girls have not free-ranged as of yet. (Part of my questions)

So, 'ere go my questions:

#1 - Is it best to let them ALL free-range at the same time, so that they may meet on 'common ground' the first time?

#2 - Should I separate them each time they free-range together, before separating them before bed for the evening? If so, how many times (outings) should I repeat this process before letting them roost together for the first time?

Or, should I let them go into the coop as one, big, new flock, and see how the new bedtime (roost) thing plays out, the very first time they free-range together?

#3 - I really have no way to separate the 'baby chick feed' from the 'laying hen feed'. Therefore, is it OK to feed the new chicks the same laying feed as the older ones? Is it really that much of a big deal? (Again, the new chicks are 9-weeks old).

FYI - I am feeding all my girls Kalmbach brand chicken feed
18% Start Right Chick Feed (New girls)
17% All-Natural Layer Pellet (Old girls)
Henhouse Reserve Premium Chicken Feed
(I use this as scratch for both the new and older girls)

**Kalmbach is a phenomenal company and make awesome feed by the way! Check out the Henhouse Reserve!

#4 - Realizing that there may be some harassing/pecking/chasing going on during integration. I understand that I shouldn't intervene as it will disrupt the process. But, how much is too much? When do I step in?

I don't have any roosters nor are any of the hens broody.

Point of interest - here are the breeds I have:
The older girls - 2 Swedish Flowers, 2 Welsummers, 2 Speckled Sussex, 1 Cream Legbar
The new girls - 2 Blue Copper Marans, 2 Olive Eggers, 1 Cream Legbar

I will try to post some photos of my coop / run setup tomorrow, but I think what I already provided should help with your suggestions and guidance.

Thanks a bunch everyone!
Take down the 'see, no peck' divider now, but don't let the younger ones out to free-range just yet... they are most vulnerable to airborne predators still. Give them another couple of weeks before you release them to free-range, as then, after the adjustment period into a full flock is over, the bigger, older birds will protect them more. If the younger girls are isolated by being pecked on by the older birds, they'll be easy pickings for hawks, etc., to pick them off. Pecking will be minimal at this state of the game, as the pecking order gets re-established. A few pecks on the head to put the girls in their place is likely all you'll see, unless someone is sick and weak.
 

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