Quote:
After a week, their little oil glands start working and they can oil their own feathers.
That's actually inaccurate. Ducklings are naturally buoyant and it's the shape of the body, combined with the air trapped in the down that allows them to float. The only purpose of the oil on adult birds is to keep the feathers in good condition. The feathers on an adult bird trap air against the skin - those in good condition keep the water at bay longer.
When ducklings get waterlogged, chilled, & drown it's a management issue. They can be given water to swim in as soon as they're out of the nest or out of the incubator & dry & able to ambulate well. The trick is providing water in containers that they can get in/out of at will. I have never lost a duckling due to drowning that wasn't due to an accident such as them getting into a pool they weren't meant to, or like me forgetting to put blocks back in after having cleaned the pool - both management issues. I've raised literally thousands of ducklings and have actually consulted a waterfowl biologist on this subject. I'll copy my Email & his response here..
That's actually inaccurate. Ducklings are naturally buoyant and it's the shape of the body, combined with the air trapped in the down that allows them to float. The only purpose of the oil on adult birds is to keep the feathers in good condition. The feathers on an adult bird trap air against the skin - those in good condition keep the water at bay longer.
When ducklings get waterlogged, chilled, & drown it's a management issue. They can be given water to swim in as soon as they're out of the nest or out of the incubator & dry & able to ambulate well. The trick is providing water in containers that they can get in/out of at will. I have never lost a duckling due to drowning that wasn't due to an accident such as them getting into a pool they weren't meant to, or like me forgetting to put blocks back in after having cleaned the pool - both management issues. I've raised literally thousands of ducklings and have actually consulted a waterfowl biologist on this subject. I'll copy my Email & his response here..
I'm trying to find information on the buoyancy of ducklings and have been having a hard time finding anything other than opinions online. I was hoping you might be able to point me in the right direction or perhaps even crush my 'theory'.
In the debate whether ducklings should be allowed to swim when they're artificially brooded, I believe that ducklings can and should (should being my personal opinion that the ducklings benefit from access to water) be allowed to swim from day one provided that their pool provides easy access for them to get out any time they wish. I believe ducklings are naturally buoyant, and that the argument that ducklings get oil from their mother's feathers that is necessary for them to swim is not accurate. It is my belief that ducklings get waterlogged, chilled, and drown only when they cannot easily get out of a pool of water. Of course, unthrifty ducklings & unhealthy ducklings might be another story. These people feel that ducklings shouldn't have access to water other than deep enough to dip their bills in and that they'll die if they are allowed to swim.
Anyway, do you have access to any published information that is available online, or even your own personal opinion, as to the validity of the swimming/no swimming argument?
His response:
Cathy,
The idea that duckling need the oil from their mother is wrong, because the oil on ducks feathers has nothing to do with bouyancy. The oil maintains feather quality, which assists with bouyancy, but it's the air trapped in the plumage that provides the bouyancy. It's the contact angle formed between water and the feather surface which produces water repellancy. There's an optimal contact angle, which the more aquatic ducks, like eiders, approach. That's the principle behind Gortex being water repellent, the cloth fibers create the contact angle which creates water repellancy. There are several papers on adult birds, few on ducklings. I certainly believe ducklings do better when provided wet brooders as soon as possible. You are correct that the problem usually comes from a duckling being trapped in the water and unable to get out.
I start out using pans approximately 2" in depth for my Muscovy (& my Welsh, when I had them) that are found at Walmart in the pet section. From there I move to a black rubber feed tub that's approximately 4" in depth. Then I switch them to a black contractor's pan that can be found at Home Depot (these are often used in wet brooders) and from there a standard kiddy pool. I will use hardware cloth & bricks as necessary to help give them something to stand on/cling to when they're climbing out.
In the debate whether ducklings should be allowed to swim when they're artificially brooded, I believe that ducklings can and should (should being my personal opinion that the ducklings benefit from access to water) be allowed to swim from day one provided that their pool provides easy access for them to get out any time they wish. I believe ducklings are naturally buoyant, and that the argument that ducklings get oil from their mother's feathers that is necessary for them to swim is not accurate. It is my belief that ducklings get waterlogged, chilled, and drown only when they cannot easily get out of a pool of water. Of course, unthrifty ducklings & unhealthy ducklings might be another story. These people feel that ducklings shouldn't have access to water other than deep enough to dip their bills in and that they'll die if they are allowed to swim.
Anyway, do you have access to any published information that is available online, or even your own personal opinion, as to the validity of the swimming/no swimming argument?
His response:
Cathy,
The idea that duckling need the oil from their mother is wrong, because the oil on ducks feathers has nothing to do with bouyancy. The oil maintains feather quality, which assists with bouyancy, but it's the air trapped in the plumage that provides the bouyancy. It's the contact angle formed between water and the feather surface which produces water repellancy. There's an optimal contact angle, which the more aquatic ducks, like eiders, approach. That's the principle behind Gortex being water repellent, the cloth fibers create the contact angle which creates water repellancy. There are several papers on adult birds, few on ducklings. I certainly believe ducklings do better when provided wet brooders as soon as possible. You are correct that the problem usually comes from a duckling being trapped in the water and unable to get out.
I start out using pans approximately 2" in depth for my Muscovy (& my Welsh, when I had them) that are found at Walmart in the pet section. From there I move to a black rubber feed tub that's approximately 4" in depth. Then I switch them to a black contractor's pan that can be found at Home Depot (these are often used in wet brooders) and from there a standard kiddy pool. I will use hardware cloth & bricks as necessary to help give them something to stand on/cling to when they're climbing out.
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