Will this electric fence work?

My fence is on plastic insulators that are nailed to the 2x4 uprights to the run. The first strand is about 2" from the ground, which reading this I understand could be an issue once we get snow. As it turned out, my chicken wire sides work as a ground, so anything trying to climb the side of the run will get zapped, even when its feet clear the ground.
 
You can plug your fencer into an outdoor power strip type thing with a switch on it.

I have a ground rod but also attach a wire to the run.
 
Never thought about the power strip. I am going to have to have one for the winter with water bowls anyway. So I will do that. I'm in and out of the run multiethni times during the day, so turning it off with a switch is much easier. Thank you for thinking for me

I read that fence should be 4 inches from run, first wire should be 4 inches from ground and every wire up should be 2-4 inches apart. Is that correct?

Eventually I might get a longer ground rod, but I think the groubd here is pretty moist, especially with the ducks and their pool. I do want to keep the grasses that grow real close to the run because the chickens do peck at it and eat it. I won't use any weed killers, so this will have to be done by hand. I used vinegar before and that worked, so time to start mixing and spraying.

Last night we had a couple storms and I left every flood light on, plus the dog coming and going. I actually slept a little bit.
 
So now comes the question of electricity. I have an outside outlet but extension cords will be needed and power strips.

I have 4 heated water bottles for rabbits, heated bucket for ducks, heated waterer for chickens, the charger for the fence and I'm looking to get a couple heated roosts for the coop. So about 9 things. 9 things coming from all directions of course.

So do I run an extension cord from each thing to a power strip and plug the power strip in? I am getting some kind of box for the power strip to protect it in the weather.

Is this safe?
 
My fence chargers are outside mounted on the coops. I have 2 for different coops but one main fence charger for my main group of coops. I have electricity to my coops. I actually leave night lights on in my coops, 3 watt LCD's in each coop. I have heavy duty extension cords from coop to coop. I do my electrical connections in the coops to protect from the weather. My extension cords are way bigger than I need, 12ga grounded. I have my wires about 4 to 6 inches off the ground then 6 to 8 inches apart. I have 3 strands. I haven't had a loss by predators since I put it up over 10 years ago. I have added coops and add to my wire, poly rope wire. When I put another coop up that is not next to the others I took the fence charger from the main group of coops because it was less joules and put a bigger fence charger with more joules out to the main group of coops and pens. With my larger fence charger I get around 9000/10,000 volts. on the smaller fence charger I get close to 5000 volts. Both have at least 6' ground rods pounded into the ground so that just a few inches are above the ground for my hookup. I have some game cameras set up in different places on my property and most nights see predators but they don't mess with the wire. We have added another coop since this picture was taken.
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You can buy switches and plug it in to a receptacle and plug the fence charger into it or a cord going to the charger. My main is inside my barn and I also have a cut off switch on the coop under the charger.
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I plan on it. I wasn't going to do by the gate, but decided that I am. I wish it had an on/off button versus unplugging it.
Oh. Mine has a switch. I am afraid that I will touch the wires as they are close to the switch. I turn mine off when I let the ducks wander in the yard. I turn it off so they don't get zapped on the outside. ;)
 
We have a fence that has electric wires built into it and a hot gate. Touch the fence or the gate and you will get a zap. A bulldog type clip links the power source to the gate. It’s permanently on unless I’m there monitoring the birds if they free range.
We do have some equipment to then run a secondary wire system, outside of the full electric fence, but we don’t think we need it as we don’t have as many predators as you have in the USA; ours are mainly dogs and foxes. It may work better for you given how clever they are.

At night the hens are locked in an Omlet enclosed run. They should also be locked in an Omlet Cube roosting box but a bad storm freaked out one hen and she now refuses to go in to bed. Because of the Omlet run, it’s skirt and the electric fence a fox should not be able to get to her.
 
Ok, got the fence. Got it up. Of course I got zapped, I'm happy with the shock, it was pretty strong. 2 of my dogs got zapped. They both went back a second time more carefully and backed off. Scared the heck out of them though

A couple questions. It's not completely how I want it, but it's good for now. I got to get more wire. I need to figure out a better place for the charger. Can you use two different wires, like steel and aluminum? What are the tallest step in poles you can get? I do believe I would like to go all the way to the top and over the top eventually. I don't think I will feel completely secure until that is complete, but I feel better. Also, in order to get in the gate I have to pull a pole out, is there any way to connect the wire from charger to fence by clamping it? So when I need to get in those wires stay together and then I can just reconnect it instead of pulling pole out?
 
I have underground wires under my gates but a hot wire across the bottom of the gates and if any predator put a nose to it they would get zapped. Someday I'll make the wire under ground a little longer.
Here are some pictures of a gate made out of an old screen door.
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