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Ted Brown said:
@MiaS It occurred to me that you may have missed the need for "jack posts" to support the monitor window frame in your coop?

These are simply 2" by 4"s that are the length needed to run from the bottom of the wall to the height where the bottom of the monitor frame will begin. I see that you have put a small square on the stud which I assume you will use to support the front roof? If yes the bottom of that square is the height you will need. So a few points:
  • The jack post will go flat against the longest stud you have and on the inside, one on each wall. It should be aligned with the back edge of that long stud and will be wider so that it sticks out along the bottom edge of the square.
  • You will also need an extra 2" by 4" that is attached to the monitor frame, flat on the outside and aligned along the bottom. This is needed to support the front roof panel across the width of the building, very important!! This is shown is in this diagram and labeled "front roof plate":
View attachment 1747732
  • The monitor frame will sit on top of the jack posts on each wall and will also be nailed to the longest studs. DO NOT DEPEND ON JUST NAILS TO HOLD THE MONITOR FRAME SINCE IT WILL HAVE TO CARRY BOTH ROOFS ALONG WITH ANY SNOW LOAD THAT WILL BUILD UP!! The roofs could collapse otherwise. Also use nails into the long stud EVERY 12" along the two jack posts.
Hopefully this is clear, if not ask!!!

In addition, the monitor frame itself will need to be carefully designed. It will carry the snow loads of both roofs and must be strong enough to hold. I suggest you draw a picture of what you have in mind BEFORE YOU BUILD IT and post it here so others can chime in with suggestions.

This diagram from Woods' book is a good model. If I recall correctly @Howard E re-enforced his monitor to ensure it did not collapse:

View attachment 1747729
Click to expand...
I appreciate the info as I had not yet figured out how I was going to do this. I haven't missed it, I just haven't needed to build that until I get my base set and my back and side walls positioned.
 
@MiaS There was a post today about this thread:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-colony-house-portable.1104954/page-6

This thread was where I read about possible issues with snow load:

"For those wondering what the concern was, it is the cross framing of the monitor. This thing is clear span inside, so the cross framing behind the top window openings has to support the weight of both roofs. I used 2 x 4's for rafters and they have held. Main support framing was 2 x 6's, doubled up with 1/2" plywood lamination between them.

In his description, Woods called for this to be framed lightly (chicken houses were expected to be cheap and economical builds back then), but went on to say some of the monitors of his lightly framed houses had sagged under heavy snow loads. I went with heavy and stout vs. light and prone to sagging. Some 30 to 40 years ago, I remember when the roofs of many of the old original poultry houses collapsing under 12 and 14 inch snow loads. I didn't want this to collapse."

You will have less of an issue given your 6' by 10' size but worthwhile to consider. BTW if you have not come across this Howard E thread it is a good read.

How is progress?
 
Ted Brown said:
@MiaS There was a post today about this thread:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-colony-house-portable.1104954/page-6

This thread was where I read about possible issues with snow load:

"For those wondering what the concern was, it is the cross framing of the monitor. This thing is clear span inside, so the cross framing behind the top window openings has to support the weight of both roofs. I used 2 x 4's for rafters and they have held. Main support framing was 2 x 6's, doubled up with 1/2" plywood lamination between them.

In his description, Woods called for this to be framed lightly (chicken houses were expected to be cheap and economical builds back then), but went on to say some of the monitors of his lightly framed houses had sagged under heavy snow loads. I went with heavy and stout vs. light and prone to sagging. Some 30 to 40 years ago, I remember when the roofs of many of the old original poultry houses collapsing under 12 and 14 inch snow loads. I didn't want this to collapse."

You will have less of an issue given your 6' by 10' size but worthwhile to consider. BTW if you have not come across this Howard E thread it is a good read.

How is progress?
Click to expand...
Was away this week so no progress except for finding some great looking 'forged' hardware for my door and a rubber coat that I hope will be similar to the Blackjack 57 stuff. Can't find that in my area but found a similar one. I will be using it around the bottom edge of the coop walls. I will look more closely at this link tomorrow as I was concerned about how that wall was to hold up the roof(s) so I'm very interested in getting that part right!

I am also planning on using 2 x 4s for the rafters but will use a 2 x 6 beam and supports for the monitor window 'wall'.
 
@MiaS If I understand what you are saying I think you have the gist of what you will need.

I assume by supports you are referring to the verticals on each side (jack posts)? Also using a piece of 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the two 2" by 6"s adds a great deal of strength and brings the width to 3.5" which matches the width of a 2" by 4". If you plan to have only one window opening across the width I would do 2" by 6" beams both top and bottom of the monitor, if not and you have a vertical 2" by 4" in the middle you will not need the upper beam. And do not forget the 2" by 4" on the outside to support the front roof (see the profile diagram in post 10 above "Front Roof Plate").

The link above is long and covers a lot of ground besides the monitor window, the part I quoted is the key element regarding strength of the monitor.

As for the rubber coating, application can be tricky due to thickness and getting it mixed, turn the can upside down the day before you use it and then stir to make it consistent throughout. Read the directions carefully, higher temperatures outside are better for both application and drying. I think you may have to stay off it for up to a week for it to dry, depends on what you bought. Use clothes you do not care about because it will never come off, rubber gloves are a good idea but a gentle solvent will help remove from skin (some may be water soluble).
 
Last edited:
Ted Brown said:
@MiaS If I understand what you are saying I think you have the gist of what you will need.

I assume by supports you are referring to the verticals on each side (jack posts)? Also using a piece of 1/2" plywood sandwiched between the two 2" by 6"s adds a great deal of strength and brings the width to 3.5" which matches the width of a 2" by 4". If you plan to have only one window opening across the width I would do 2" by 6" beams both top and bottom of the monitor, if not and you have a vertical 2" by 4" in the middle you will not need the upper beam. And do not forget the 2" by 4" on the outside to support the front roof (see the profile diagram in post 10 above "Front Roof Plate").

The link above is long and covers a lot of ground besides the monitor window, the part I quoted is the key element regarding strength of the monitor.

As for the rubber coating, application can be tricky due to thickness and getting it mixed, turn the can upside down the day before you use it and then stir to make it consistent throughout. Read the directions carefully, higher temperatures outside are better for both application and drying. I think you may have to stay off it for up to a week for it to dry, depends on what you bought. Use clothes you do not care about because it will never come off, rubber gloves are a good idea but a gentle solvent will help remove from skin (some may be water soluble).
Click to expand...
Yes, you are correct, I was referring to the jack studs. I have two 16 x 24" windows as monitor windows so will be needing the vertical in between them.
I'm using a commercial vinyl on the floor proper but intend to paint up several inches with my liquid rubber in the hopes that I can make DLM work for me. This is a Canadian company and it appears that it just requires soap and water clean up - but I'll gear up anyways :)
https://liquidrubber.ca/collections...erproof-sealant-coating?variant=6212029186075
 
@MiaS From what I have read it is very difficult to get DLM to work in a coop with a floor. Howard E does DLM inside his Woods coop but he does not have a floor.

The folks on here who seem knowledgeable (I have been on researching for six months and am just starting my build) say:
  • DLM in the run
  • Deep pine shavings inside the coop on the floor
  • Drop boards under the roosts with sand & sweet PDZ cleaned daily using a cat litter type scoop
  • Add shavings as needed, clean out coop maybe once or twice a year into the run for DLM
  • Woods suggests sand in the front of the coop under the front openings (use a 2" by 10" vertically 2 feet back front front to separate sand from pine shavings)
@aart is the go to person for advice on this.
 

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