Woods Open Air Coop Design - Amish Built

[aart]

Yes they are and yes I did. It’s tough because they are over 2 hours from me, some of the details have been lost in translation but they have been a pleasure to work with and I have no doubt it will end up exactly as I asked.

They must be part of a sect that allows electronics.
Could you post the plans?

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

They must be part of a sect that allows electronics.
Could you post the plans?

I'm not sure what their beliefs are or what sect they are from, I didn't ask them. They do often work with non Amish foremen of sorts to get jobs outside of their communities. The plans I provided them are directly from the book written by Prince T Woods. I purchased a hard copy on Amazon however I've seen links to the pdf version too. In addition to the book I gave them my notes and preferences based on what I learned from reading JackE's post and wthrlady's as well. If you would like to see my notes I'm happy to share.
Apparently several people have stopped to see my coop being built and they all want one now, I warned them this would happen

 

[ScottandSam]

I'm not sure what their beliefs are or what sect they are from, I didn't ask them. They do often work with non Amish foremen of sorts to get jobs outside of their communities. The plans I provided them are directly from the book written by Prince T Woods. I purchased a hard copy on Amazon however I've seen links to the pdf version too. In addition to the book I gave them my notes and preferences based on what I learned from reading JackE's post and wthrlady's as well. If you would like to see my notes I'm happy to share.
Apparently several people have stopped to see my coop being built and they all want one now, I warned them this would happen

I would like to see your notes.
Scott

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

I would like to see your notes.
Scott

Okie here goes!! I’m going to copy and paste some of our original communications so it’s easier:

We are looking for someone to build us an open air chicken coop as designed by Woods way back in the early 1900’s. The dimensions should be 8x14, I will post a link below to some pictures of one we have seen (JackE’s) - we would like just natural wood, board and batten but this will give you an idea of the design. I will also provide a link to the book with the original plans - it is a great read!
Link to pictures https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-style-house-in-the-winter.445004/
Link to book https://books.google.com/books?id=o...&oi=book_result&ct=result#v=onepage&q&f=false

There are a few notes I’d like to include:

Siding - We would like untreated lumber, board and batten, stained natural on the outside with Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Bottom/base can be pressure treated.

Size - We want to go with 8x14, 8.5x14 would be closer to the ratio of 1.6 which I think is what the guy that designed this thing was going for but it's close enough! I took the height measurements from a 8x16 version to make sure we are building this thing high enough - the height on that version at open front is just over 4.5', height to the top of monitor windows is just under 9', rear wall height is just under 5'.

Roost bars are 3 feet off the ground, 3-4 inches wide and removable.

Nesting boxes with 3 openings, fitted to the far wall on brackets and removable.

Doors - Inside swinging Door with 1/2 inch Hardware cloth, exterior swinging door as well.

Windows - Side Window should slide open. Top windows have curved pieces sticking out that are pieces of 1x cold rolled steel bar stock. They are attached to the bottom of each window with a screw eye, they have holes drilled in them every 6 inches or so. There is a heavy finishing nail hammered into the bottom of each frame sticking up 2 inches. This is so you can lock the windows closed and also open them cracked or fully open. If you can get us the functionality with a different solution we are easy! Front windows are 1/2 inch Hardware cloth as well.
Hardware Cloth - front bottom windows and inside door are hardware cloth only, side windows, front top and side windows are covered with hardware cloth too. This is the stuff we use from HomeDepot, they have different sizes as long as it's at least 19 gauge and 1/2 inch we should be good to go : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...Gauge-Steel-Hardware-Cloth-308226EB/205960849

 

[ScottandSam]

Okie here goes!! I’m going to copy and paste some of our original communications so it’s easier:

We are looking for someone to build us an open air chicken coop as designed by Woods way back in the early 1900’s. The dimensions should be 8x14, I will post a link below to some pictures of one we have seen (JackE’s) - we would like just natural wood, board and batten but this will give you an idea of the design. I will also provide a link to the book with the original plans - it is a great read!
Link to pictures https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-style-house-in-the-winter.445004/
Link to book https://books.google.com/books?id=o...&oi=book_result&ct=result#v=onepage&q&f=false

There are a few notes I’d like to include:

Siding - We would like untreated lumber, board and batten, stained natural on the outside with Cabot Australian Timber Oil. Bottom/base can be pressure treated.

Size - We want to go with 8x14, 8.5x14 would be closer to the ratio of 1.6 which I think is what the guy that designed this thing was going for but it's close enough! I took the height measurements from a 8x16 version to make sure we are building this thing high enough - the height on that version at open front is just over 4.5', height to the top of monitor windows is just under 9', rear wall height is just under 5'.

Roost bars are 3 feet off the ground, 3-4 inches wide and removable.

Nesting boxes with 3 openings, fitted to the far wall on brackets and removable.

Doors - Inside swinging Door with 1/2 inch Hardware cloth, exterior swinging door as well.

Windows - Side Window should slide open. Top windows have curved pieces sticking out that are pieces of 1x cold rolled steel bar stock. They are attached to the bottom of each window with a screw eye, they have holes drilled in them every 6 inches or so. There is a heavy finishing nail hammered into the bottom of each frame sticking up 2 inches. This is so you can lock the windows closed and also open them cracked or fully open. If you can get us the functionality with a different solution we are easy! Front windows are 1/2 inch Hardware cloth as well.
Hardware Cloth - front bottom windows and inside door are hardware cloth only, side windows, front top and side windows are covered with hardware cloth too. This is the stuff we use from HomeDepot, they have different sizes as long as it's at least 19 gauge and 1/2 inch we should be good to go : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...Gauge-Steel-Hardware-Cloth-308226EB/205960849

Nice The more Pics you can get the better. I love the craftsmanship. looking forward to updates.

Scott

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

Nice The more Pics you can get the better. I love the craftsmanship. looking forward to updates.

Scott

There really is nothing like the craftsmanship of the Amish, I don't know their secret but they use less lumber and build more solid structures than anyone I've ever seen. I will absolutely post more pictures once I get it and as they send them

 

[Howard E]

Scanned that photo again and noticed something I would suggest be changed, but may already be too late. I'd have them put insulation under the metal roof on the back part above the roosts. Otherwise, you will get condensation in there and have water dripping on the birds. That is an issue that has been known even in Woods time.....his plans call for boards as roof decking, covered by felt paper and asphalt shingles. It was known even back then that uninsulated metal roof in livestock buildings was a mistake. Not critical over the front scratch shed, but I'd want it over the back part under the monitor.

As for what type of insulation, I'd have them use 1/2" foil faced hard board polyiso stuff, with foil side out and white side in and have them place it over the purlins and under the metal. They will need about 3 sheets of it.

In addition to helping with the moisture and condensation, insulation under the roof creates a "thermal break" to prevent radiant heat from being lost to the outside. The birds themselves are the source of the heat. With a load of birds, coop will be warmer and dryer inside with insulation under the roof......no supplemental heat needed.

I have an "Amish" built horse barn, which is very good, but either they didn't know to put insulation under the roof, or were told not to (to save on cost), but either way, if horses are left inside, it will literally rain inside and leave a lot of stuff wet.

 

[ScottandSam]

Not to get off topic but can anyone point me to a 8x12? I read woods said that would be the smallest to build. i am wondering about building a 16 x 12 and running a wall down the middle so 2- 8x12. how do I figure out the different dimensions? These would be our year round rooster shacks / breeder shacks. Each would have wire wall front to back so a total of 4- 4'x12' pens.
thanks Scott

 

[aart]

... can anyone point me to a 8x12?

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/woods-colony-house-portable.1104954/

 

[Howard E]

To Scott or anyone wondering about this style of house......I suggest you get the book:

http://www.nortoncreekpress.com/wordpress/poultry/fresh_air_poultry_houses_a/

BTW, modern era publisher is Robert P, a BYC member and sometimes poster.

In addition to the Woods house, the book also shows several other adaptions of open sided fresh air houses, that may be better suited to your intended use. Houses for breeding pens, growing pens, etc. Some as small as 2' x 3'.

Also, if you think back to that Woods mini thing we worked on last year, there was a simple open front shed style alternative we discussed that would be 4' wide x 8' deep. Perhaps a few of those would be a better fit?