Woods Open Air Coop Design - Amish Built

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

I just want to say thank you to everyone that has commented and given me suggestions and advice, I love this forum and everyone on it!! I just sent the revised specs below, feel free to add any comments or suggestions and I look forward to posting updated pictures soon. I also just ordered some pullets that will be here mid March: Bielefelders, Swedish Isbars, Blue Birchin Marans and Double Silver Laced Barnevelders if they are old enough to be sexed by mid March. I'm so excited I can barely stand it!!!

Dimensions
These are approximate, I would like to make sure the scale/ratio's still make sense based on the original design provided in the book. We want to go as large as possible, we are both tall, but we want to still keep the scale.
8.5 ft Width x 14 ft length or as close as possible based on the lumber size. What is the largest size we can go and still fit it on a trailer?
Height to top of monitor windows - 10 feet
Height front windows - 4.5 feet
Height rear wall - 5 feet

Roof - Roof should be boards and shingles, roof felt or insulation if necessary - brown with slight overhangs

Hardware Cloth for inside door and all windows - 19 gauge and 1/2 inch we should be good to go : https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...Gauge-Steel-Hardware-Cloth-308226EB/205960849

Door - atleast 80 inches high, framed like you see in the pictures, the bottom of the door should not be flush with the floor in the coop, it should be about 6-8 inches high as you can see in the pictures but the board siding should continue underneath the door frame. Inside swinging Door with Hardware cloth, exterior swinging door.

Siding - rough cut lumber, board and batten, stained if possible Cabot Australian Timber Oil in Natural

Roost bars - are 3 feet off the ground, 2x3 inches edges slightly rounded, 3 inch side up. removable and staggered if possible.

Nesting boxes with 4 openings, fitted to the far wall on brackets and removable.

Windows - Glass for top front and sides. Side Windows should be as large as possible, slide open and be low enough to slide all the way to the front without hitting the joist in the front. Approximately 30"L x 32"H. Top bottom should be as large as possible based on dimensions. Top front should be minimum 30"L x 16" or as large as possible. Windows need to be able to be opened fully, cracked or halfway and when opened should have a screen covered in hardware cloth. We are open to suggestions on the best way to make this happen. In the coop we saw the windows have curved pieces sticking out that are pieces of 1x cold rolled steel bar stock. They are attached to the bottom of each window with a screw eye, they have holes drilled in them every 6 inches or so. There is a heavy finishing nail hammered into the bottom of each frame sticking up 2 inches. This is so you can lock the windows closed and also open them cracked or fully open.

Electric - Is it possible to run electric to provide a light fixture connection on the ceiling and 2 outlets on each side as high as possible.

 

[WthrLady]

My windows are the replacement variety from the local hardware store. You simply cut a hole in the wall set the window in the hole and screw in. I attached mine from outside. In the groove normally meant for J channel and siding I tucked the hardware cloth around this edge and then slid 1x3 wood trim in the slot, securing the cloth.

I completely removed the window screen as it is not needed.

OH and my nest box is one of those assemble it yourself cube storage units. The larger size, 12x12 inch cubbies, threshold brand from Target. I didn't use the cardboard back in the kit, but used heavy plywood. I simply screwed it to the wall. I did add a piece of 1x3 wood across the fronts and built a fly up perch. It cleans really easily and wears like iron. Mine was on sale for 29.99 and has 6 cubbies.

 

[Howard E]

If this is to be 8.5' x 14', then height to top of monitor should also be 8.5'.

14' / 1.6 = 8.75' (but 8'6" is as good as 8'9"). Remember, to the extent possible, back part is a square.......and height of monitor framing is the same height as it is deep and wide.

As for height of back wall, roof slope should be 5" rise per 12" run.......so 8.5' x 5 = 42.5"

Then (8.5' x 12") = 102".......minus 42.5" = 59.5"........so basically 60" or 5 feet. So you nailed that part! (assuming height of monitor being 8.5').

Roost bars (I'd have at least 2.....)...2" x 3" ok, but NARROW side up and both at the same level........NOT staggered!

On the monitor window locks.....instead of the piece of steel shown in the book, I plan to screw door hinges to the bottom of the window frame. The kind with rectangle on one end and long strap on the other. Two of them per window frame. These hinges include screw holes.....so to open, push window out, rotate hinge down so screw hole in hinge lines up with nail head and drop it into place. Should hold it open even during high wind events. To close, rotate hinge up and out of the way. Then use either a sliding bolt latch or screen door hook and loop to hold windows shut (all from the inside).

Inside screened windows should be allowed to rotate all the way up and out of the way (hook them to the rafters) when the regular windows are closed. To hold screen windows down and in place with regular windows are open, use a small block of wood with screw through the center and just rotate it 90 degrees to hold windows down shut.

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

My windows are the replacement variety from the local hardware store. You simply cut a hole in the wall set the window in the hole and screw in. I attached mine from outside. In the groove normally meant for J channel and siding I tucked the hardware cloth around this edge and then slid 1x3 wood trim in the slot, securing the cloth.

I completely removed the window screen as it is not needed.

OH and my nest box is one of those assemble it yourself cube storage units. The larger size, 12x12 inch cubbies, threshold brand from Target. I didn't use the cardboard back in the kit, but used heavy plywood. I simply screwed it to the wall. I did add a piece of 1x3 wood across the fronts and built a fly up perch. It cleans really easily and wears like iron. Mine was on sale for 29.99 and has 6 cubbies.

Thank you so much !!

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

If this is to be 8.5' x 14', then height to top of monitor should also be 8.5'.

14' / 1.6 = 8.75' (but 8'6" is as good as 8'9"). Remember, to the extent possible, back part is a square.......and height of monitor framing is the same height as it is deep and wide.

As for height of back wall, roof slope should be 5" rise per 12" run.......so 8.5' x 5 = 42.5"

Then (8.5' x 12") = 102".......minus 42.5" = 59.5"........so basically 60" or 5 feet. So you nailed that part! (assuming height of monitor being 8.5').

Roost bars (I'd have at least 2.....)...2" x 3" ok, but NARROW side up and both at the same level........NOT staggered!

On the monitor window locks.....instead of the piece of steel shown in the book, I plan to screw door hinges to the bottom of the window frame. The kind with rectangle on one end and long strap on the other. Two of them per window frame. These hinges include screw holes.....so to open, push window out, rotate hinge down so screw hole in hinge lines up with nail head and drop it into place. Should hold it open even during high wind events. To close, rotate hinge up and out of the way. Then use either a sliding bolt latch or screen door hook and loop to hold windows shut (all from the inside).

Inside screened windows should be allowed to rotate all the way up and out of the way (hook them to the rafters) when the regular windows are closed. To hold screen windows down and in place with regular windows are open, use a small block of wood with screw through the center and just rotate it 90 degrees to hold windows down shut.

Thanks Howard!! That ratio absolutely makes sense....I just really wanted to make the coop taller because I'm almost 6 foot and I just like things taller I do understand the importance of maintaining the ratio though so we may just have to make it shorter. 3.5 feet on the back wall just seems SO SHORT!!! Is there a reason not to stagger the roost bars? A few of my hens like to roost high, specifically my Sebright And also, is there a reason to have narrow side up? The bars we have now are 1x3's 3inch face up. Just curious and always want to give my chicks the best! Great idea on the monitor window locks too, thank you again for all your input and feedback I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!!

 

[WthrLady]

Windows

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

Windows

Very cool idea!!! And thank you for the visual

 

[Howard E]

Back wall height remains 5' (60 inches). My 8' x 12' Woods has the wall height at the monitor window of 8 feet, and I'm also 6' tall and I can barely reach the monitor windows as it is. Correct roof slope for the back part remains 5" rise per 12" run.

If you went as large as Jack E's house, which is 8' x 16', then correct height at the monitor is 10 feet. Study the book, do the homework on how it all fits together and it will become clearer. You builders will understand if you tell them 5/12 slope on the back and 3/12 slope on the front.

Narrow side up is so birds can grip roost bars with both front and back toes.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/proper-design-of-roost-bars.1197058/

And all the same height. Most birds all try for the highest roost bar available so fights break out as to who gets to use it. King on the mountain? Solution is to make both the same level and all that goes away. There is every reason to make them the same height and no reason to stagger them like a ladder. Common mistake, but a mistake just the same!

 

[Jenny Loves Chickies]

Back wall height remains 5' (60 inches). My 8' x 12' Woods has the wall height at the monitor window of 8 feet, and I'm also 6' tall and I can barely reach the monitor windows as it is. Correct roof slope for the back part remains 5" rise per 12" run.

If you went as large as Jack E's house, which is 8' x 16', then correct height at the monitor is 10 feet. Study the book, do the homework on how it all fits together and it will become clearer. You builders will understand if you tell them 5/12 slope on the back and 3/12 slope on the front.

Narrow side up is so birds can grip roost bars with both front and back toes.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/proper-design-of-roost-bars.1197058/

And all the same height. Most birds all try for the highest roost bar available so fights break out as to who gets to use it. King on the mountain? Solution is to make both the same level and all that goes away. There is every reason to make them the same height and no reason to stagger them like a ladder. Common mistake, but a mistake just the same!

Thanks Howard! You said the back wall remains 5'? I'm confused...I thought it should be height of the monitor window x5? I purchased the book in hard copy and have read it 3 times so far taking notes and highlighting. My brain is great at a lot of things, but when it comes to design and building it's just very hard for me to retain / understand. This site has been more helpful for me than the book for sure! Very cool information on the roosts, thank you for the link. I will absolutely incorporate that logic into the new coop!

 

[WthrLady]

Mine fight over the window seats! Lol