Woods style coop brooder question

[Dogface208]

I've decided on a Woods style coop for my future bird barn. I want to have an "introductory brooder" in the main coop that I can put larger chicks in when it's time, but I'd like to have it on the floor under the roosts. In the off chance I am introducing some chicks in winter, will the air currents keep them drafty or chilled? Thanks for any help!

Edit: took out the confusing info that was useless to my question.

 

[cholland]

What size woods coop do you plan to build? 8x12, 10x16?

Mine I is 8x12 and I wouldn't want to put anything in the middle. Maybe a brooder area I need the corner?

In the winter with the windows mostly or all the way closed, there rally isn't a draft at all in a Woods coop. I used mine for a brooder last spring, without the upper windows even installed. Just put an MHP in there and they were fine.

If you are planning to brood often, I would consider at least a 10' wide woods, and split it down the middle, or maybe 4 and 6 feet each side. Build a wire wall with a door, then you can separate or leave open and it doesn't change the air flow.

 

[Dogface208]

I would have the roosts in the back, a droppings board under the roosts, then the brooder under that. Nothing would be in the middle. I would build one of the larger ones, I haven't gotten the book delivered yet. At least 10x16, but probably larger as I'd like to be able to stand in all parts of the coop.

Edit: OH! I get where the confusion is. I meant the building would be say 30' long divided into 3 10' partitions. The middle partition would be for hatching and brooding chicks which wouldn't be open air, but the two partitions on the ends would be chicken and duck coops. I suppose all of that wasn't necessary information... I'm just curious about having the introduction brooder box under the roosts.

 

[aart]

Sounds pretty cool.....thinks the 3 sections will each need to be air tight in the winter for the air cushion to work on the end sections. Does that make sense?

I don't see a problem having older chicks in an enclosure under roost boards in end sections as long as they are acclimated to the temps.

Hope you do a build thread on this plan/build!

 

[Ridgerunner]

I don't have a Woods Coop but I think I understand the basic concept. The air flow is in the front and the back is a culdesac type area that does not experience breezes. The air flow up front creates enough turbulence to sort of suck the air out of the back without creating breezes string enough to create a problem. That gentle air exchange is enough to replace bad air with good.

My brooder is under the roosts, the top acts as a droppings board. For me that works great. If I were you I'd build all the interior walls out of wire so the entire building acts as it is supposed to, I'd follow the design. That wire should help integration.

"thinks the 3 sections will each need to be air tight in the winter for the air cushion to work on the end sections."

I think what Aart is trying to say is keep the pop doors and any other openings that air can flow through toward the front so you don't get a breeze in the back, at least in the winter. In summer some ventilation back probably would be a good thing.

 

[aart]

"thinks the 3 sections will each need to be air tight in the winter for the air cushion to work on the end sections."

I think what Aart is trying to say is keep the pop doors and any other openings that air can flow through toward the front so you don't get a breeze in the back, at least in the winter. In summer some ventilation back probably would be a good thing.

Yes, pop doors are in front part.
Bu meant that the walls between the sections(3 Woods coops under one roof) need to be air tight as the proportions are important.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Yes, pop doors are in front part.
Bu meant that the walls between the sections(3 Woods coops under one roof) need to be air tight as the proportions are important.

If the entire building is built to the proportions of a Woods Coop, no. If each section is built to the proportions of a single Woods Coop, yes.

 

[Dogface208]

Thanks for all the help! The biggest reason why I wanted the middle "brooder section" to be closed is so I could put the brooders in the shorter roofed section and have a sink, feed, entry door, etc in the back. Although you both bring up a really good point about having the two side coops airtight. Exactly HOW airtight does it have to be for it to work? I will need to clean the coops (DLM) every once in a while and planned on having big barn doors on the side I could drive the tractor up to, but the doors would probably create drafts. I've got more planning to do...

 

[aart]

If each section is built to the proportions of a single Woods Coop, yes.

This is what I assumed.

Exactly HOW airtight does it have to be for it to work? I will need to clean the coops (DLM) every once in a while and planned on having big barn doors on the side I could drive the tractor up to, but the doors would probably create drafts.

You should be able to make sure the doors seal pretty tight with no gaps.

 

[Dogface208]

Thanks for the help. It is greatly appreciated. The build is several years out, but I try to plan everything in advance and get the materials in order for my husband long before the build.