Woods Style Coop floor question

[Howard E]

In that case, you can also do a "portable" cement floor. Patio pavers or if you have the means......4"x8"x16" cement blocks laid flat to make a solid cement floor. Those can be moved too. But make them tight. No cracks anywhere. You can bed them on sand or better yet, gravel.

Dirt floors MUST BE used on an elevated site or at the very least, sloped to drain. Wetness and moisture being the worst thing you can have. Over time, a dirt floor also gets fowled....too much N from the droppings, plus harboring parasites, etc. Then there are the rats, mice and other vermin....plus predators who are able to find there way in by going under the support structure. They can reside nicely in and under deep litter.

Elevated wood floors are OK, dry at least, but over time can also rot out. Rats, mice and vermin can chew their way in and also reside in tunnels beneath, where they may be able to snack on feed that falls through the cracks.

Over time, the clear winner as a floor for a permanent house was always cement. Just saying.

 

[KettermanHillCoop]

Just be sure that critters can't get in from underneath, whatever you build. Also, movable will tip over in a bad storm, unless you Firmly attach it to the ground.
It's happened here twice is wind storms (not tornadoes) with three sided movable livestock sheds. Bad for chickens!
Mary

That's why it will only "look" movable. lol It will be a secure structure, just have the appearance of being portable. lol Rebar "J" hooks is what I'm using now...and will use in the new coop as well.

 

[KettermanHillCoop]

In that case, you can also do a "portable" cement floor. Patio pavers or if you have the means......4"x8"x16" cement blocks laid flat to make a solid cement floor. Those can be moved too. But make them tight. No cracks anywhere. You can bed them on sand or better yet, gravel.

Dirt floors MUST BE used on an elevated site or at the very least, sloped to drain. Wetness and moisture being the worst thing you can have. Over time, a dirt floor also gets fowled....too much N from the droppings, plus harboring parasites, etc. Then there are the rats, mice and other vermin....plus predators who are able to find there way in by going under the support structure. They can reside nicely in and under deep litter.

Elevated wood floors are OK, dry at least, but over time can also rot out. Rats, mice and vermin can chew their way in and also reside in tunnels beneath, where they may be able to snack on feed that falls through the cracks.

Over time, the clear winner as a floor for a permanent house was always cement. Just saying.

Maybe I'll concrete the floor...then camo it in bedding.... **insert evil laughter**

 

[Folly's place]

How bad could extra taxes really be?
There's a thread about homeowners insurance here too. Chickens are livestock, and your policy might or might not cover any claims if you have poultry. Do check about it.
Mary

 

[Latestarter]

Really I understand avoiding taxes, but since it's based on value, how much would the taxes be on a chicken coop? Just curious as I know some taxing districts/authorities are completely ridiculous. A basic Woods coop isn't the Taj Mahal...

 

[KettermanHillCoop]

I'd just assume not involve taxes, permits, insurance...etc. They get enough out of us as it is for the 7 structures already in place.

 

[cholland]

Soon to be starting a Woods coop. I'm doing mine on 4x6 pressure treated skids. The 4x6 will be 6' apart, then frame the floor, 8' wide, with 2x4s on top of that. At least 3/4 plywood.
I have a couple of sheds already like this. They are easy to move if empty. I prefer to set them on piers or cement blocks to keep them somewhat elevated.
I had a problem with skunks getting under a coop once. I blocked it with left over chicken wire and hardware cloth. Then ran a single electric fence wire around it a few inches high. Nothing goes under there now.

 

[cge7]

i grabbed a 4x8 pallet a local store was throwing out and move the slats together then filled in the vacant space to form the floor which allows for up/down draft with heat current...grab 4- 8ft fence posts and a few 12ft 2x4's and you almost done; just finish the framing and tack on the walls/roof - i used T111 from depot for the exterior and had my 4x8 coop built and 4ft off the ground for around 100 in raw materials

 

[nminusyplusm]

I vote deep litter on a dirt floor with pressure treated wood on a cinder block footing/foundation dug into the ground 12-18” down.

 

[aart]

My coop shed looks like a Woods but it is not.

But it is considered 'portable' or 'non permanent' because it is 'unimproved',
no electric or water.....so is not taxed.
You might want to find out exactly what the tax definitions are in your area.
Can be risky asking, hehe, or they'll start asking.

It is up on piers, part of underneath is fenced with the run, which is nice for summer shade and weather shelter as my run is all mesh.