Woods-style house in the winter

[Arielle]

It's good you have a pro to build the coop. He'll probably have that coop together quick. It took me (Not a pro,but I like the work) a coupla months to get mine together. I pre-built the wall sections in my garage, then dragged everything down and put it together like a 3-dimensional puzzle. I see what you are saying about space filling material, with the windows. It'll make it easier to peek in there and see what's going on.
About the 2X4s. Back in the day when they said 2X4, they meant it. The board was a full 2X4", not 1 1/2 X 3 1/2". It was a lot stronger board than what we get today. Also, that's another reason for the sharp roof pitch on the deeper part of the coop, to shed snow. They had this all figured out, as they got mass amounts of snow back then too.
Now as far as nest box placement, mine is straight across from the entrance door, inside the coop. You could, if you want, hang them off the side externally. But I've read about folks having a problem with frozen eggs with external boxes.

Geez, good point about the frozen eggs. I'll put the boxes inside.

YOur right a 2x4 was really that dimension. I love the rough cut wood from the local mill as it really is full measure, though it is rough and not planed down yet. Well worth the rough though. The infoI read was for 2 x 3 and I was shocked at the wide distance , at more than 2 feet between. Will be intersting to see what DH decides. I'm thinking if he goes with 2x4, it will be 12-16 inches. However with the 10 foot run, he might go with 2 x 6 at 18 inches. I will just have to wait and see.

DH works full time, so he can only work after he gets home. ALong with the other chores. I'm getting all the material up to the work area. I'm sure I will be doing much of the work too. I can't do technical cuts but I can do rough work. NOt too pretty! lol BUt functional!! lol

You built your in a totally practical way. Warm and cozy out of the elements, and then assemble it. It is a beautiful work of art as well as practical. I enjoy looking at it in your avatar.

Have you ever tracked the temps inside in different locations?? HOw high are your roosts?? How many birds of what size??

 

[Arielle]

Quote:
Thanks for the reminder to take pictures. Will be depending on DH cell phone, so quality will vary but will still be good enough to chronicle.

We have a saw mill locally too. Just need to pre-order as they only run on the weekends.

 

[bluebirdnanny]

Good luck with construction!!! IT will be an adventure!!
 
 I'm still reading the online book-- I only have this week to build my unit. 
 
Disappointing to hear that the old  construction was not as good as the book made it out to be.  THough if the general premise is right, we should be ok. 

No, no no I didn't say their was anything wrong with old.... he was telling what people used to do with open air and why the Woods style works better. And that he doesn't recommend dividing up like some do.

Sorry I don't always express things correctly. But he tells of other style open airs and why he prefers particular for particular purposes. ie number of birds and applications for use of each.

 

[Arielle]

Here's a couple of pics of a very nicely done 10X20' Woods another member built.

Very nice workmanship!!

 

[Arielle]

Quote:
Thanks for the clarification. I"m sure it will make more sense as I continue to read thru the online book. OTherwise, I am limited to the basics of what I see in pictures and my limited experience with chickens.

 

[Georga]

Beautiful Coop!

 

[Arielle]

I stand corrected-- In the description of building a 20 x020 with phots, he used 2 x 4 for the roofing. THe 2 x 3 are limited to the walls. I still have concerns about the span between rafters. He built this for $100. I will be lucky if I too can build a smaller model for $100. Repurposing as much material as possible.

Dh dismanteled some of the cornish coop-- will see how far he got tomorrow and finish as needed. It will also give up 2 heavy duty hinges repurposed from another project.

As I look at the north end of the structure I wonder if anyone thought of adding a low roof and wall as a shade area or for storage?

 

[Leahs Mom]

Jack - Temperature Question.

You have said that your house stays warmer inside in the winter than the outdoor temperature. Can you explain why that is so?

I don't have the woods style house, but my indoor temperature is always exactly the same as outdoors. I would love to know what are the dynamics that would allow it to be warmer inside.

I use deep litter but that just freezes and doesn't seem to make any difference temperature wise which I thought it might.

Any tips/thoughts on that would be appreciated. Here's what the current hen house looks like if it makes any difference. Pop door is on east side. The double doors and window on North side.

 

[Arielle]

Here's my 2 cents-- since finishing the online book. http://books.google.com/books?id=o0...&resnum=2&ved=0CCYQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=false



The back half of the 10 x 16, the 10 x8 has no open doors or windows during the winter. Since the wind does not blow directly i nto the building , air doesnot blow inside the building. Rather the air slowly migrates thru. THe hens make the heat and it is somewhat trapped in the building, however the air is turning over at a slow rate. But fast enough to remove all the ammonia quickly

IMO the air flows up as it warms and goes out the open eves at the top of the building. I did not see it discussed in the WOod design but in other designs from long time poultry men along the back wall where the roof meets the wall, this should be keep open for air flow IN. ( THis would be the west wall if coop faced east based on the wide open front)

THere is a size requirement for the Woods-- nothing less than 14 feet deep.

In the above book, he addresses other open face styles. Again the building has HUGE open windows on one side, and again there is surprizing depth to the structure.

THis allows for lots of fresh air to move into the building all the time.

Another component is sunlight. Sunlight is antibacterial. THe front windows let in sunlight and the windows at the peak of the roof ( clerestory) allows light into the back of the building.

I'm sure others will have in put.

 

[JackE]

Jack - Temperature Question.

You have said that your house stays warmer inside in the winter than the outdoor temperature. Can you explain why that is so?

I don't have the woods style house, but my indoor temperature is always exactly the same as outdoors. I would love to know what are the dynamics that would allow it to be warmer inside.

I use deep litter but that just freezes and doesn't seem to make any difference temperature wise which I thought it might.

Any tips/thoughts on that would be appreciated. Here's what the current hen house looks like if it makes any difference. Pop door is on east side. The double doors and window on North side.

In the book, from which I got my coop's plan, I read about these coops being warmer inside than the outside temp. There really wasn't a big explanation as to why, and I really didn't give it much thought, until another member built a Woods in upper N.Y. state. In one of her posts about her coop, she mentioned that her coop was always warmer than the outside temp. So I went out and got a thermometer and put it in my coop. Sure enough, it was warmer, usually about 10 degrees or so. Also, my coop is always dry inside. I too, use shavings in my coop, and they never freeze. I guess you could say I use the deep litter method (Although some say it's only a true deep litter method if you have a dirt floor), as I only clean everything out twice a year, and dump bags in there routinely in between cleanings. The shavings are as dry and dusty as they are in summer. If your litter is freezing and the temp is the same as the outside, to me, that sounds like it could be insufficient winter ventilation, as you are trapping excessive moisture in the coop. You may need more air flow.